I assumed he had a fairly used clutch, pardon my assumptions.

 

Haha assumed that he would have changed it if it was worn during the rebuild, but I could be wrong too!

 

true, true, well i'm going to clear all this up now. If you clutch is worn, replace it, if not, let it go.

 

The best way to get power out of your Toyota is make sure it is geared right! You can spend alot of time and money in your motor but if you have the wrong gears for the bigger tires the engine will perform like a dog. Do your homework and gear it right and you will like the difference.

 

When i thre in the 4.30 in the rear, i noticed a huge increase in seat-dyno-power.
felt alot more torquey, and i get alot better MPG's. i'm up to around 18-19.
i made 20 bucks in gas last about a week and a half haha

 

cheater


yeah mine was purdy when it was completed too







didn't last though gradually get's harder and harder to keep clean...

 

put in a brand new clutch with resurfaced flywheel, new alt, oil pump, water pump, and bought a newly re-mfg'd head from the machine shop that did the motor work. So aside from sensors and a few small things, the motor is practically new. Just need to replace the PS pump and things will be golden, as far as new stuff in the motor. Now if I could just get the power thing to my liking I would be set. I know I am not gonna have tire burner like in the old 88 with the V6, but this motor has got to have more in it that what its got. I just don't want to lose the 22-23mpg I get on the hwy on long trips.

 

3.0 tire burner

 

That is a purdy bike.......

Oh the motor




I think these motors are know for the duration not the speed.


With the aftermarket supply I'm sure one could spend all sorts of $$ and gain 10-30% of overall HP, about 10-30 HP.

Repo

 

Yeah, I learned that lesson with my jeep. I painted the 350 chevy orange, spent a lot of time making it purdy. First time off road it was too dirty to even see it was orange... I guess that's why we take pictures though. that way we can say "It USED to be purdy!"

 

It was a 88 regular cab and I could get the tire(s) to let go if I dumped the clutch at around 3k. I loved that truck. It would get up on it. loved going down wet on-ramps sideways. Plus i only managed to get 1 speeding ticket in it.

 

Speeding ticket w/ a 3.slow, FRAME IT.

LOL

Repo

 

42 in a 25. but hey I beat the guy I was "racing" right up to the point that I saw the white ford bronco with sheriff written on its door. Ruined a good day of snowboarding. Not to mention set me back several hundred bucks. Oh well at least my dad didn't yell at me (was 19 and he was paying my insurance while i was at school).

 

hey don't diss the bike; how do you think I got around while the motor was out of the truck

that's the truth

 

First time I put my motor in I made sure everything was pretty,

second time, I stripped all the painted parts and slapped it back in.....decided it's not a show truck so who cares!

 

see I went about it the opposite way... I've put together a Chevy 350, a Ford 302, and an Isuzu 2.3l, and I've left them all bare for the most part (maybe some chrome on the 350 )... I decided this time I wanted so go that extra mile... lesson learned? don't bother if it's a daily driver, lol

 

Not really a lot that you can do. As others have said you'll need to regear it for the tires, a header (LCE is what I did) will help and a Supra AFM conversion is also nice. I doubt I gained any serious HP but the engine does breathe better and my mpg are up in the 20's around town.

 

Hey gnarly, I found this comment by Ted of ENGNBLDR regarding bore:

"Always bore as little as possible to assure round and straight bores. There is no reason to overbore to gain cubic inches, it does gain some of course but about a tablespoon or so is all. You will be better off with the cylinder walls as thick as possible for rigidity, more power can be lost in frictionals than can be gained in size by boring."

Maybe it sounds better knowing its from Ted lol

 

only thing I can think of clutch related that would do this isn't the clutch, its the flywheel. but here's the trick, lighter flywheel helps upper end, heavier flywheel = lower end. I think the Marlin site touches on this a little, but I might have seen this somewhere else.

 

.....