Anybody had any luck with these Idler arms? They look stronger and incorporate a Greaseable Balljoint. Looks as though it dosnt even need a truss brace as it moves on a ball.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/po...9lIHNldHRpbmcu

 

They are good and carry, or used to carry, a lifetime warranty. The problem is that it is just a weak design. Idler arms take a lot of stress. I've replaced a ton of them on rwd GM cars and trucks and Ford cars over the years.

 

Ahh ok..where is the weak point? With the original Idler arm i usually have bushing wear before the rod end usually goes. I see this one uses a balljoint that can actually be serviced..so i a ssumed that it would control wear much better than the stock ones.

 

Yes it is better than the original design. Save your receipt though. It won't last a lifetime. Also remember to grease it or tell your lube guy that is has a grease zerk there so he doesn't miss it.

 

I'm running a Moog now and it seems to be handling my abuse pretty well.

 

hehehehe!!

 

I'm running a Moog right now, after HAVING to get one right at the second after bending my old one






so far it's holding up, but it's only been on maybe a month, lol


personally, I would rather have the other design though, cause this Moog style doesn't allow you to use the idler arm braces...

but it'll still get the job done well with a stock suspention... mine isn't stock, so we'll see



btw, here's the old one that I bent

 

Moog is weak. The stock idlers are the strongest. Buy a brace and you will never wreck one again. You will go through bushings but thats a $10 fix.

 

Where do we get the bushings?? part #s ect.
Thanks

 

Rancho A-Arms Huh?? I had nothing but trouble with the bushings on those things..how about you??

 

Just curious..how is the Moog weak? I thought having the double ball joint design is great..plus it allows movement in all directions and shoudnt bend...No need for an Idler arm brace.

 

Moog idlers don't have a double ball joint, they have a double tapered bearing race. That doesn't allow "movement in all directions", and thank God for that: if it allowed the center link to move all around, your wheels would go in and out of alignment - mostly out.

The Moog design results in a lot more leverage/force on the bearing - the stock design with it's bushings separated by several inches is a stronger design, especially with a brace.

http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After...ion/IdlerArms/

 

Great info!!! Thanks.

 

I'd still love to find a Downey type brace.

 

Dealer will have them.

There are two different sets of bushings. thin and thicker style.

Give the dealer the year of your idler and they will give you the right ones..

 

Well I had good luck wheeling lightly on my Moog Idler. Then, the CO4RJ came and I wheeled a lot harder. This is what I have now:

If you look closely, you can see that the arm is bent at the end (not terribly evident in the pic) and also the scratches on the frame where it was hitting. The arm now has about 1/4" of up/down play... I'm going to rebuild my stocker and brace it.

 

Well they've been good so far, but they've only been installed about a month and a half now. I also picked them up second hand, so I'm not sure how long they were ran on before I got them


you'll notice the beafy droop bump-stops, that's because I didn't get the Rancho diff drop with the UCAs but with those stops and a 4Crawler 1" diff drop, I have no binding even with the 4Crawler 1.5" BJ-spacers too

 

Does anyone know if you can buy the bushing that goes between the idler arm and the center link. I have all the parts to rebuild the arm. I just need that one bushing. It seems you have to by a new Idler arm to get it. Any Ideas?

 

Hello

I used a Moog idler arm on my Vette with no problems..I dont "off road" my Vette but, overall, I think its pretty good..

 

I picked up a moog a few years ago when I lived on a three mile dirt road in Northern California and it held up fine