Rjz5400

So hi guys, new here and would start a build thread but it is tough to swap stuff out and paint and whatnot When It is Running like POOP.....
So here is the story. I bought this 1987 4runner IFS 22re 128000 miles 5 speed SRS Auto hubs (for now) a couple weeks ago when my car died. It had been sitting for a while when these guys bought it and "put in a fuel pump" but i suspect from looking around under the hood that they either replaced the timing chain/guides and or a head gasket because i can see shade-tree mechanic marks all over it. so i got it started with the jump box and if it did bust the water jacket and fill with water, that would explain the knock that i think is a rod or main bearing.

PARTS

Swapped in a new battery from my old car
new plugs (NGK)
checked and adjusted a couple of valves
inspected timing chain and guides
ran a fuel cleaner and then a can of seafoam in the brake booster/tank/crank
changed oil and filter rotella 15-40
did an H20 injection to clean the pistons off
dislodged a huge wasp/mu daubber nest from the air intake "snorkle"
waxed 3/4 of it
replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder from autozone/lifetime warranty couldn't pass it up for 40$ for both


Here are the facts as i see them

Valves are set right
clean tank of fuel (ran three through it already)
fresh oil and filter
Compression test showed 170 171 176 171 COLD
Check spark at all cylinders and pulled the offending plug and got good spark
checked the connector to the bad cylinder for the injector and found 13v also checked the continuity and got 2.5?? but i may have had my multi meter set wrong. unplugged the injector with my stethoscope says "silent" when i plug the injector back in it sounds like Woody the Woodpecker, just like the other three.

but it runs terrible and has a consistent hard miss. You can hear it thudding in the exhaust, when you accelerate it sounds like a 1950s log truck and performs the same. and when i pull the plug wire off of the number 3 cylinder absolutely nothing happens. when i pull any other plug it immediately goes to about 300 RPM and sounds way worse, but number 3 has no affect at all. I also looked into the cylinder and saw some fuel but it smelled ˟˟˟˟ty.

this recent trouble started when i ran outside and hopped in to chase down a suspected moped thief and when i floored it pulling out it sounded weird....... on the way home i though i had blown a hole in the header it sounded so loud.


So my main question is this, can an injector sound fine (using my new harbor freight mechanics stethoscope) and test ok at the plug and still be bad causing a totally dead cylinder?
I dont want to but probably can pull the manifold and send the injectors out to witch hunter i just want to be totally sure that i am not missing something simple before i do that. That process seems so simple hardly anyone has talked about it, other than drain coolant and label all the wires is there anything else i need to know?


So any ideas guys ?? here are some pics of IRENE
(bought it monday after the hurricane of the same name)

Rjz5400

pulled the cold start injector to get an idea of what the intake looks like, i would say pretty dang sooty and rough, i cleaned most of it up with my finger, yall think the seafoam treatment moved a lot of this around and plugged an injector?

also what is the easiest way to get the injectors out? it looks like there are about 39 things connected to it that need to be moved or removed to lift that upper plenum out of the way.

Rjz5400

well i just couldn't stand the not knowing, so i figured i could leave almost everything attached and only remove those cables that would not flex out of the way enough to access the injector rail.
i left the throttle, all the small tubes, all the connectors, and most of the other stuff.
what i did remove was the cold start fuel line, the two water lines, drained about half a gallon of coolant out so those didn't leak. the fuel supply hard line and regulator, the EGR tube and then the six bolts that hold the whole upper plenum on. I then just rolled it over the top onto the valve cover and pulled the injectors.

see pic number 3 is completly full of rust, to the brim. the pintles didnt look terribly corroded or built up in there so i am tempeted to just clean out the filter and replace them. but i decided when i bought this to just spend money on it up front rather than nickle and dime myself to death so i am gonna ship them to witch hunter today.

hopefully they have some crap in the other ones too, I hate to send them and basically just get new orings and filters, but whatever at least ill know they are good to go for another 100. oh yea of course i am just gonna replace the fuel filter for the same reason, cause i would hate to have to take it all apart later to get in there again. after she is running great it is back to the IFS manual hub upgrades and then tires and all the trans fluids are getting changed also.

#3
lower intake, not as bad as i thought it might be

how i got in there without removing everything!!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am sure once you get your injector back, it should run great, but one other thing I would check is your connection from the wire to the injector. I had a problem of #1 not firing and it was just a bad connection.

My 87 has the white style connectionon on the wire and it gets brittle and can break of the skirt on the connection. They did improve the connectors on later models.

While you are waiting for your injectors, it not much more involved to just remove your throttle body from the plenum so as not to mess with your TPS and clean it real good. I use the carwash, others use brake cleaner or something similiar.

That is the reason I make a block off plate between the EGR and Plenum. Your hose connections are more then likely plugged.

Rjz5400

thanks for the tips terry, i liked your build thread, read all the way through a few weeks ago when i was planning on buying this 4runner.


yea i did notice that many of them are brittle, i guess ill just keep an eye on them and also keep an eye out for some to swap on there if they start acting up.

i suppose if i do unbolt the flap and leave that in place it really wouldn't be too much to get the rest of the stuff off, IDK if it is worth it though, better airflow, or milage or what? I will probably make a block off plate though and seal the EGR off, no emissions here because of the age.

ill consider it, i have got a few days till the injectors come back from Witchhunter but i want to replace the fuel filter too and i am pretty busy anyways.

ill update if anything happens before i get them back, any input on whether the cleaning of the plenum makes a huge difference or not?

i am definitely not removing the lower intake so without cleaning that will it make any difference at all?

Rjz5400

well i have gotten them back and i don't know why but i will post up the pics of my freshly cleaned and refurbished injectors from with hunter,


they had a 45% variation down to like 1.4 % now. poor to fair condition now all excellent spray patterns and failed the leak test and another test so anyway i am excited,
readed to pop them back in. I put in a new fuel filter and found there was rust in the old one. I plan on running it with this filter for maybe a month or two then replacing it to make sure none of that rust from the gas tank makes its way back into my nice clean injectors. I didn't move the mount as it just had too many hidden tiny bolts but i may go after it tomorrow when i put it all back together. i cracked one clip so i plan on taping it down and keeping an eye on it but the connection was good so that should be fine.

anyway hoping this fixes my miss and MPGs go up along with a decrease in that gas smell in my exhaust. more power? who knows i did have a blocked air passage before so that will make it better regardless.

Turd Furgeson

I had a random miss on my 87 turbo truck when I first got it. It ran fine for a month or so then would randomly drop a cylinder,then work fine again. After doing some digging I found that #4 injector plug was missing the little wire clip and part of the plastic was broken. I went through this place http://www.connectorsfast.com/ and the guy was super helpful. He helped me determine what plug I needed and bought 4 new pigtails with a updated plug that is easier to unhook so you don't break the plastic later on down the road. You don't have to mess with carefully taking those little clips out (and possibly loosing them) either. I think it was only like $16 with shipping for 4 of them. You might want to put those on now while you have every thing apart before you put the new injectors in,it will probably save you some hassle down the road. I think you need the ev1 style connector.

Rjz5400

cool thanks for the tip, if i had it last week when i shipped them off i would have done it this go around, but as is i have been without car for a week so i am just gonna slap it back together.

the good news is that it was way easier than i thought to take the whole intake off, not that big of a deal really just had to pay attention and i only removed to bare minimum to get it out of the way.

Rjz5400

put them in, tightened everything back up, fixed a couple of leaks on the new crush washers (none of the old ones I reused leaked a drop) and it is like a new engine! has power and sounds a lot more even than before it started to miss, haven't driven it much but i am going out to my storage place so should get in a few mixed miles hopefully it will be a noticeable improvement.

there is a difference between half and full throttle now which is good!!

fsquared

sorry having the same problem have to tag tag

Rjz5400

So update, the truck was driving great till it started missing and i found water in the oil, blown HG....
so it sat for a few weeks and then I got the gasket set from ENGNBLDR and goter done.

So NOW it is miss firing again!!!!! I narrowed it down to number two, has good spark at the plug, and I cant hear the injector tapping away (I used a mechanics stethoscope).
I used a multimeter to check the plug and it reads .6 volts while the engine is running. it bounces a little like .63 .64 .63 .65 .64 .64

I guess my question is can rust get through the brand new fuel filter and into my injectors to plug them up again? I mean the were witch-hunter clean a few months ago and only probably have 1000 miles at most on them now. I will pull them out and check the screens in the back and post up but is there an easy was to clean the tank or stop the rust from getting through??

Rjz5400

took out the injectors, tested, all were fine and within resistance value. So i was messing around in there and the idle suddenly went way down.
long story short (pun intended) there were some corroded connections in the wiring harness and it would drop a cylinder when i moved it.

here is some of what it took to get them sautered, shrink wrapped, electrical taped, and put back in the harness.



now hitting on all four and put back together. for now.

lim50

I know this has been awhile but your picture of the corroded connections has really made me think! I have a 87 22 re with a random misfire at idle and during cruise. Where did you find that connection? Was it under the plenum or in the harness that runs from the fender to the intake? Looking at the Haynes manual it shows that all the negatives from the ecm join together but physically where? Thanks for your photos!

Rjz5400

yes, the second thing, fender to rest of harness.

the ground for the injectors is on one of the intake bolts. Where the two halves bolt together, not where the whole thing bolts to the block.

just trace those back in to the harness and you should find them, if it is your problem. It may be an injector also. or distributor/ignition problem.

Good luck!

lim50

Thank you ! Time to pull out the X-ACTO knife and do some surgery.I have dealt with corroded factory brass connections before however finding where they are in the harness can be a challenge (LOL)After seeing how bad yours were(no offense) its time to look at that connection!