yadudej

So I have a 91 toyota 4x4 with the 22re 5 speed.
When I start it cold, idles just fine but as the warmer the motor gets...it starts to misfire and shake aaand it only misfires when idling, not driving. I've tried to research but havent been able to come up with an answer, I've ran seafoam in the oil and the gas, unplugged the injectors and they are fine. No idea!? Please help!
Thanks in advance!

yadudej

Also no codes are being thrown and ive replaced my spark plugs and my maf.

Scrussanation

you checked your coil? when my igniter started going bad it would run fine when it was first start up cold but warmer it got the igniter would get too hot and the ecu wouldnt recieve the IGF signal so it would cut the injectors in and out constantly after warm... it may quit after traveling down the road due to cooler air passing over igniter and cooling it off.. just one thought it could be but usually would pull a code.. I'm sure others will chime in

scope103

Ignition timing? (You need a timing light; about $20)

yadudej

I haven't checked my coil, yeah I thought it would throw a code if it was going or is bad. I will check that.



I have a timing light, havent checked it, I just didn't think it was a timing issue since it just randomly started and got worse and worse. I will do that tonight when it gets dark

yadudej

I also got seafoam to put through my brake booster to clean the valves, never did it before.

4Xtruck

My 94 4X4 extra cab 22-RE starts fine, but the idle drops below 500RPM when it warms up. I checked the resistance on the water temperature sensor (89422-20010), and it is 2000 ohms when at ambient temperature (about 85 degrees F) and 500 ohms when at operating temperature. When I run the truck with the water temperature sensor disconnected, it starts a bit higher (~1200 RPM) but still drops to 500 RPM when at operating temperature. Jumping e1 and TE1 does reduce the RPM of the engine. I'd appreciate some help walking me through possible solutions, so I can eliminate this problem. This problem has only existed for the past week. My check engine light hasn't gone on to identify any problem.

I added this information to another similar post https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-22re-217438/ but there seems to be no action on that post. You may want to check it out for some other solutions, though.

Kiroshu

Dirty throttle body passages...?

Restricted throttle body cooling passage..?

Intermediate coil/igniter assembly fault...?(As already mentioned above)

Ignition timing incorrect and or out of adjustment..?

Idle speed incorrect and or out of adjustment...?

Distributor signal pick-up coil fault...?

Air flow meter faulty/out of spec..?

4Xtruck

Kiroshu, thank you. You nailed it on the head, though it was a bit rough to get the truck started after needing nearly a can of throttle body cleaner to remove the gunk. I guess it is about time to clean it, since I have almost 300,000 miles on the truck and it has never been done before. How often do you recommend cleaning the throttle body?

Kiroshu

Lots of Asian auto manufacturers offer intervals for servicing(cleaning/adjust) throttle bodies... it ranges... from Manufacturer... I would say about every 50-80k miles is a good interval. Replacing throttle body gasket during service is always good practice during this service as well ^_^.

4Xtruck

I'll put it on my schedule to clean it every other time I replace my fuel filter (every 30K miles). I just sprayed it on the truck, so there was no gasket to replace. It might save my catalytic converter if I take it off, but the cat has to be replaced every two years when I get my smog check, anyway. It probably would have been easier to start the truck had I cleaned it off the truck, but this was quick and easy.

Kiroshu

Glad you got it resolved .

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

yadudej...Kiroshu gave you a lot of great areas to check. When was your last good tune up? Wires, plugs,valves adjusted... What all have you done could help narrow down some things as well

4xtruck..With 300k miles, I suggest also just pulling the Plenum but remove the assembly holding the TPS from the Plenum. Dont mess with the TPS itself, leave it alone. Most likely all or most of the ports attached with hoses are going to be clogged with carbon from the EGR. I prefer to take the Plenum to the carwash to get all of the carbon out of the Plenum. Some have used different cleaners to help break up the carbon, like oven cleaners. I use a wire brush to get the big stuff out and then a high pressure washer to get the rest out. It will be messy but in my opinion is alot better then running as much carbon as you most likely will have thru your motor and catty.

After I have my intake system clean, about once a year I just kind of check and see how much gunk is built back up in it, but for a general rule, follow the recommended service procedures.

Your cat should last more then 2 years but I dont have to deal with California's inspections so I cant really say anything about that. Seems if you have to replace it every two years just to pass, California is a little overboard on their test.

4Xtruck

I've kept up on the tune-ups, wires, plugs, valves. I just haven't cleaned inside. I am reluctant to pull the plenum, as I don't have the equipment to re-surface all the ports and fear I'd just open myself up to leaks if I don't do it properly. What would be your thoughts on removing all vacuum lines and just spraying throttle body cleaner through them?

4Xtruck

As far as the smog check goes, max allowable HC is 95 @ 15MPH and 60 @ 25MPH. A new cat takes me from 114 & 77 to 26 & 52. I've been told that older engines throw gunk into the cat and that kills them. I do lose 1 quart of oil between oil changes.

Scrussanation

Pulling the plenum and cleaning thoroughly your looKing at the gaskets cheap at O'Reillys intake plenum gasket, throttle body gasket, and cold start injecter gasket. It's not real hard to do it all quite a few write ups on it here, and I never had to rebut all the gaskets after initial replacement of I had to remove again shortly after reaching cuz not running right etc. Clean throttle body, and plenum, remove cold start injector and clean that too. When I did it I used the blue disposable paper towels and b12 chemtool

Scrussanation

Oh yeah you don't need to resurface the ports just cuz you're cleaning carbon or of the pleNum. At least I didn't my truck is great

4Xtruck

It seems to me you'll just find more gunk as you tear the engine down further. At what point do you stop? Sure, it would be nice to have a nice clean engine, but will it truly affect the running or lifespan of the engine? You say there are write-ups here that go through the process of cleaning the plenum. Can you provide a link to one you feel is complete? I can't seem to find one by using search. If the only concern is maintaining vacuum to the lines, it seems easier to just clean out each of the vacuum line ports.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have cleaned several without replacing the gaskets and havent had any problems. I am gentile when comes to removing the throttle body assembly though. Also I meant to mention about the EGR tube is most likely clogged. On my 88 runner build link below, I have it listed as to how I clean mine up for some information. It will be listed on the first page as to which post it is on.

The EGR metal tube, I use a drill bit with my fingers to get it clean. To get the metal pipe out, it has a Phillips screw that holds it in. Good luck getting it out with a screwdriver. I gently use a pair of vise grips to loosen the screw to get the pipe out.

If you do take the Plenum off, you really dont need to go any further into the motor other then cleaning the ports to the Plenum. Just mark your hoses really well as to where they re-connect to.

Scrussanation

i blocked off my egr (no pun intended all you emission friend people) and cleaned it throughly it was piece of cake... never disconnected all the vacums.. one writeup has a guy who disconnected just enough to get plenum off i used his dunno which it is tho too busy to use search bar lol