Ah, so a 92 SR5 doesn't have auto hubs? Staright from the factory, no modifications.

And if that's the case, what does ADD stand for?

 

My 87 4 runner had the Toyota automatic hubs, and i was able to use 4 wheel drive a few times before they shredded themselves inside the hub housing. after a few months of no 4x4 I swapped them out for a set of asins manuals, a very simple no extra parts needed swap.

 

ADD - automatic disconnecting differential. Its vacuum operated..

 

So then with ADD's, the CVs do spin..? Sorry, I'm still learning, and I'm buying a truck tomorrow with non-manual hubs. I want to know what I'm getting.

EDIT: I checked Downey's site, and they said with ADD, the CVs do spin. I'll probably be replacing those at some point in the near future.

 

i bought my warn premiums for like $130 or so. their worth it. people talk them down but they're doing the trick for my ifs and they do have a lifetime warranty. no change in mpg.

 

Yes with ADD, the CV;s are always spinning. However, adding manual hubs is as simple as taking off the lockout plates, and bolting the hubs on.

ADD is not the same as Auto Hubs. Auto hubs was only offered until 1989 (1988 in the trucks) 89+ trucks and 90+ 4Runners had ADD, or Manual only.

 

It's vacuum ACTUATED; I'm pretty certain it is electrically operated.

 

In terms of the discussion "which are the best" that all depends...

Aisians are by far the strongest and least likely to break. But if you are like me and have 5.71 gears and you would much prefer a hub to break BEFORE your ring and pinion were to break - then Warns are a good idea. It is so much easier to swap out a broken hub on the trail and then cary on - then get yourself towed out in 2wd and pay A LOT more money to fix that ring and pinion when you get home...

With that said I will be swapping my spare Warns on soon and have my Aisins as my backup hubs. (But Boy do I LOVE my Aisins...)

 

i dont know what years this applies to but ive been told time and again that on my 2000 tacoma, not only would I have to do the manual hub conversion but I'd have to put in new CVs as apparently the ends of the CVs are different between ADD and manual hubs. That could put me back a total of $300 or more, which is why I haven't done the "simple" conversion yet.

 

Well this is the 86-95 forum, so that's a good clue. But yeah you Taco guys have more work and expense to the swap than we do.

 

That's because the front on tacos and 3rd+ gen 4Runners are not full floating like the pretaco trucks. Essentially, you have to convert the front to full float, then it's a simple swap.

while the price is steep, there are A LOT of advantages for a 'wheeled truck. In the std Taco setup, the CV helps hold the bearing in, which holds the wheel on, so you ABSOLUTELY CAN NOT drive without at least the outer stub of the CV in place. With the FF setup, you can drive without the CV at all, which provides more options for getting off the trail and home on all 4 wheels... See Molly's "SNAP" thread for the impact of semi-floating axles...

 

Hey Kev,

With ADD, the CV spins as ADD keep your hubs in a locked position. With manual hubs, you can lock or unlock your hubs manually. The only real disadvantage to these is having to get out and lock em before you head into the bush.
The Aisin ones(stock on the toyota's) are the best ones, but you don't get the lifetime warranties of brand new.
Your CV's will thank you!

 

It was nice not having to get in/out of my truck 4 different times in the course of two hours last night...

The truck looks like it has survived 180K with the ADDs, so what's another summer?

 

With the manual hubs all you have to do is leave them locked and they are just the same as the ADD live hubs (which are permanently locked) The manual hubs just give you an option of unlocking them if you want to, but that doesn't mean you have to.

 

Yeah, I keep mine locked in the winter.

 

Toyota switched to ADD hubs in 89 for trucks and 90 for 4Runners. They are on all the time, turning your axles (cv's and boots). The disconnecting differential is supposed to unlock the front driveshaft form the axles, but after a few years the vacuum switch usually leaves it on all the time. I know mine would spin the whole line if you turned the wheels.
Just installed Warns Premium Manual Hubs yesterday. I'll let everyone know how they do.
James Dean

 

A little off subject, but seem's to be the same area. She's a 95' 4runner v6, and just this morning on the way to work, I'm driving along and a sudden "ka thud" like I hit a big pot hole. This happend 3x's within a 12mile drive. I could heard clicking on bottom side of my steering column and a whirring noise just before the next "ka thud". Thinking it is the hubs trying to ingauge. Could it be a reley, or more? Any help or insight would be appriciated.

 

Your '95 doesn't have "locking hubs" that engage. It has a plate with a splined hole to keep it engaged all the time.

I would guess a driveshaft u-joint, but in any case, it sounds BAD - like don't drive the truck until you can figure out what it is.

 

Guess it's a little ignorace, but then why would I need to shift into 4wheel if I were engaged all the time. Or is this what the ADD hubs are.
As for the clicking noise, it does sound like a reley is stutering. I'll get out in a minute to check my u-joints.

 

With the ADD hubs your front end is simply just turning there is no power comming from the transfercase to power it, its like rolling down a hill in nutral, your rear and and driveshaft spins but no power is going to it.


on a side note, if you had a full floating rear end and had 4 manual hubs, you could set all hubs to "free" ... cheap anti-theift device..