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Lower suspension arm OFF

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Old 03-02-2008, 10:14 AM
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Lower suspension arm OFF

Hello, happy forum users. This is my first post...

I have had a few issues with my '94 4Runner, and this is the most recent. Driving down Loop 12 in Dallas, i heard "clunk" followed my a few colorful expletives. Then, when I went to apply the brakes, the pull was almost uncontrollable.

When I got home from work, it was pretty obvious what had happened. See pics for more info... sigh.

My question is whether or not this is something I can fix myself, and what parts I will need. My Haynes book is worthless; I even thought about coiling it up and shoving it in the hole, MacGuyver style.

I have more photos, but as you can see, the bushing, adjust cam, washer... missing. I'm guessing that was the ping, ding and tink that I heard on the highway.

Judging by the wear around the hole, this may have been loose for a while and perhaps sheared off? I had attributed the noise I was getting turning to the usual rub when in full lock... doh.

Anyway, any help you can offer will be much appreciated. More than anything, I just need the name of the parts so I can get them. Mongo know "bolt" and "nut," but that's about it. I really hate to get mad at this truck. I love it like a limb.

Thanks
Darren



Old 03-02-2008, 10:38 AM
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Welcome to YT. Yeah, you're lucky to be alive if that happened on a Dallas freeway. Go buy a lottery ticket now! As far as fixing it it looks like you just need to get a new cam adjustment bolts and the nuts for the lower control arm. You could go to the dealer and tell them their Toyota junk almost killed you and maybe they will start a safety recall or something.

You might be able to find those used from someone that has done a SAS or from a bone yard, but new from the dealer would be the safest bet (no since stessing your guardian angel anymore than you already have).

Oh you will also need to get an alignment after.

Last edited by mt_goat; 03-02-2008 at 11:01 AM.
Old 03-02-2008, 10:54 AM
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The hardest part will probably be getting the holes lined up. You'll probably find it easiest to remove the wheel and place a floor jack under the lower control arm (LCA) and push up with the jack. It also helps to use a BFH, big fudging hammer, (we have a family site here at YT) and maybe a long 2x4 for some extra leverage. I sometimes use a tappered brass drift when I finally get the holes close to lined up and drive it in the hole to help line them up the last little bit.
Old 03-02-2008, 05:53 PM
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Cool, thanks. I'll ask them for the parts you spec'd, and hopefully i'll be back on the road soon.

This site rocks, btw.

D
Old 03-02-2008, 06:18 PM
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The Haynes isn't completely useless, it does skip a little here & there I will give you that. It'll be very useful when Mongo tighten bolt...Mongo will need torque wrench & tighten to specs. If Mongo not comfortable with that, Mongo better get a buddy that knows what he's doing to help or Mongo could have same/same happen again without the guardian angel on duty.

And welcome to YT; stick around, there are tons of good pieces of info here & other sites like this that you'll soon see mentioned if you're here long & a few people who are over the top helpful.


Old 03-02-2008, 06:46 PM
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Good luck...had something similar happen to me last week. But my lower control arm rusted through and simply broke in half. Picked up a replacement at a bone yard but am having trouble getting one of the bolts out the replacement. Looks like the bolt corroded into the bushing sleeve. Had it on a 12 ton press and no budge!
Old 03-02-2008, 09:37 PM
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Wow, good luck pulling that sword from the stone.
Yeah, i was a bit harsh on the haynes book; i just wish that it was more year-specific. Mine is 84-95, and the instructions aren't very clear. Then again, we are talking about mechanical stuff.

Mongo will take to friend. I have Mexican friend Jose who is very good with these things. He did my engine replacement (@ 135k), rear differential replacement (gear tooth cometh away from said gear) and a few other random bits. It's a real love/hate relationship with this 4runner.

Thanks again,
D
Old 03-03-2008, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by IceburgTX
Wow, good luck pulling that sword from the stone.
Yeah, i was a bit harsh on the haynes book; i just wish that it was more year-specific. Mine is 84-95, and the instructions aren't very clear. Then again, we are talking about mechanical stuff.

Mongo will take to friend. I have Mexican friend Jose who is very good with these things. He did my engine replacement (@ 135k), rear differential replacement (gear tooth cometh away from said gear) and a few other random bits. It's a real love/hate relationship with this 4runner.

Thanks again,
D
That sounds like a good plan man, it's a fairly straight forward procedure but ball joints can be a little tricky & you may find more stuff the deeper you dig that was damaged when this occurred. When you're dealing with brakes & steering it's always best to be sure of what you're doing to it.

Just get a six - pack & tell your friend a guy at Yota-Tech said to watch him work on it so you can learn! Maybe next time you have a wrench to twist it'll be a fun mod & not an ooops on the interstate.


Old 03-03-2008, 05:06 AM
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Yeah a factory service manual (FSM) is the way to go. Here is one free online FSM for a 93 truck. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html It should be almost identical to the 94 4runner FSM for most things.
Old 03-03-2008, 05:19 AM
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After the repair, but before the alignment, have Jose check out the rest of your front suspension. There is a tremendous amount of pressure on it when turning, braking, etc. When one component is allowed to move around due to a loose or broken bolt, chances are that other things moved around and possibly wore out. Ball joints, tie rod ends, and even the control arm bushings that were still intact are all suspect. Buy Jose a couple of beers and watch him drain your checking account...
Old 03-03-2008, 08:47 AM
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Ha, ha... sigh. You're right, i'm sure. Toyota quoted the bolt at around $10, which was nice. They have the bolt in stock, but the nut will take about a week to get. He was checking on the washer the last time I talked to him.

I think the government may be involved; who keeps a bolt without the nut? Ah, well...at least it's not a $300 hammer.

The adventure continues; i'll update when I have more info. thanks for all your help. I can feel the noob love!

D
Old 03-03-2008, 09:19 AM
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I think I'd be a little worried about the other bolt on that LCA, it may have gotten bent or stressed from the ordeal. If its bent good luck getting it out.
Old 03-03-2008, 09:45 AM
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Good call. As soon as I get this part in, I will have toyota look it over and give me a list of what they think might need maintenance or replacement, and then start ordering parts... the last thing I need is to test that guardian angel out. :-P
D
Old 03-03-2008, 10:18 AM
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you might also have your buddy replace your cv boots from the looks of the first picture!

welcome to yotatech!
Old 03-03-2008, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by MIKEMOKAS
you might also have your buddy replace your cv boots from the looks of the first picture!

welcome to yotatech!
You must have better eyes than me, that boot looks dry & tear free from here.




Old 03-03-2008, 12:42 PM
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The boot looks fine but there is a crack in the "cup" right before the flange in the third pic. Maybe, that's what Mike was talkin' about?
Old 03-03-2008, 12:58 PM
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That just looks like the typical "worn shiny" spot from the angle to me....mine are the same way. But my eyes are going bad on me so I might not be seeing what you guys are.
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