Ok there is probably no way to test it is there, it's one of the few things up front I haven't replaced, and yes it is mounted over a water passage I had to drain the antifreeze when I replaced both sensors

 

Sure it can be tested, I'm assuming it's the EGR TVV you're talking about. Here's the FSM page, Toyota refers to it as a TVV...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...18egrsyste.pdf

 

That is the one thank you again you just saved me from the tracking it down time. Mystery solved

 

I know this thread is focused on the 22R, but to keep from starting a new thread, I thought I'd see if I could get some help for my '92 3VZE. After reading through this whole thread, I'm still not sure what the real fixes were and if the ones that did work would work for me.

I have similar idle issues:

- When cold (below 50 degrees), it idles too high - it's around 1500 RPM when it first starts, then within 20-30 seconds, it goes up to about 1750 RPMs. If I drive a long distance, all is well and it comes down to normal idle on it's own. If I drive a short distance and stop before it's good and warmed up, the idle won't come down on it's own as quickly as it should. I have to rev it once to bring it down to where it should be, so it's hanging at high idle too long.

- After shutting down the engine and letting it sit for 5-10+ minutes, it idles around 400-500 RPMs. After I drive a few miles and stop, it's back up to 800-900 RPMs.

The EGR valve was replaced last year. The TB was sprayed with cleaner a few months back and seemed to help the hanging idle for a little while.

Does it sound like I may have a cold start injector issue or other sensor issue? I'm not going into my AFM! I unscrewed and tugged on the wires once a long time ago and it cost me $600 to replace it!

 

Make sure the coolant hoses going to the aav on the throttle aren't plugged or restricted.

 

I found a coolant leak, sticky throttle cable and a clogged throttle body. Didn't have time to pull the EGR valve out yet but I want to run it for a week to see how it idles. I also added B-12 chem treatment to the fuel to make sure it's rough idle isn't a dirt clogged injector. Ran good this morning but it wasn't warm enough this morning to tell for sure if the low idle issue is still there.
I also have noticed if I don't let it warm up let the idle drop it is really rough and high idling

 

I would think AAV also. Cleaned and or adjusted. Check lines as stated by Shady. I wired a toggle switch in place of the FPU switch. My observations are that it works great when warm and sitting 20-30 minutes after a long drive. I also noticed that it helps when it not as warm after sitting for an hour and a half or so. And Shady, since I was riddled with guilt, I replaced that ground by the left kick panel!

 

aav? Sure I should know but... Splain please

 

AAV, Auxiliary Air Valve, on the throttle body. Think of it as a thermostat that lets air past the throttle when cold, but closes as coolant warms up. A controlled vacuum leak, if you will.

 

Oh ok thought it was something new, I know it as my idle air control valve
IACV

 

IAC's are typically electric motors controlled directly by the ECU at all times, so it's responsible for warm idle as well as cold. The AAV is literally a thermostat that closes an air passage as it warms, 100% physics driven.

 

Ok so from now on I will call it my throttle body thermostat lol. Just kidding I just feel so misled but scary part is that when I ordered a new one they (Rock Auto) called it the Idle Air Control Valve. And somehow I got the right part. Damn learn something new everyday. Thank you for the clarification

 

Yeah, they tend to use terminology a bit generically in the parts world. Keeps confusion down.

Now if they called it a cold idle air control valve, it would be accurate.

Cars are fun...

 

BTW I found something new over the weekend that might have been part of my idle issue...lol
I was under the hood and looking at my fan blade and my belt and liked to had heart failure.. There was old black oil sprayed from one side to the other and on the belt itself. But no where else.. Hmmm. Sat down on ground and took a sad moment to contemplate what it could be. Then I reached up and felt the crankshaft bolt holy crap it was just as loose as it could be. I tighten it up and what a difference. Ya big sigh of relief.. Went and bought a new torque wrench and tighten down properly.

 

Can someone please tell me what the relationship is between pushing in my clutch and the idle going up? I just can't wrap my head around it... Doesn't do as much as it used to but still doing it every once in a while. Driving me nuts

 

If you lightly touch the brake pedal, does the idle go up?

 

No I can stomp on the brakes doesn't change a thing. It only goes up every once in awhile now and only when the clutch pedal is pushed. If I tap the gas pedal most of the time the idle drops but every once in awhile it goes higher and I have to tap it again before it drops.

 

Update : truck runs great as long as you let the idle drop completely before driving if I don't then the high idle when clutch pedal is pressed shows up. Also if I shoot a little PB blaster in the casing for the throttle cable the gas blipping to drop the idle isn't present either. I think I will replace the throttle cable and see what happens. I think the casing is just tore up.

 

so out of AAAALLL of this, has ANYBODY figured out the original problem at hand?

 

I'll second that. To put the thread back on topic, has anyone made any progress specifically on the 22RE warm idle issue? I'm going to be dropping a rebuilt 22RE into my truck in the coming weeks. I'll report whether I still have the idle issue.