I will have to look it up but it is round with a single flat prong coming up out of the center of it. On my wiring harness there is a single wire with a flat blue connector that slides on. I have tried to upload pics but keep getting error messages about lack of storage. The censor is on the engine block in the very center above the fuel rail your harness should have a wire going to it.

 

ok, i think i know what that is, it's the coolant temp. sensor for the instrument cluster... it really shouldn't affect performance actually.

 

Well it made a huge difference in how the truck ran so I suspect it may have something to do with computer response to engine conditions and fuel regulation because it feeds directly into my fuel injection wiring. I don't have an instrument cluster to go by I have an 80 instrument panel. And temp gauge doesn't work I just listen to the engine to know if it's to warm.

 

That is an expansion sensor, reads engine temp for gauge, only, via resistance levels.... No other EFI functions and is not feeding any EFI stuffs....Coolant temperature sensor under the throttle body & TTTS, if you have one(I do, and mine is directly on top of my thermostat housing ), do effect EFI system. I believe my TTTS has a blue connector. I'm not positive off the top of my head if it's that or the coolant temperature sending unit for the gauge that has the blue one....... Hmmm. Did you say this was an R to RE swap?

 

I have to say yes I didn't do the swap myself just the cleanup. The engine is an 89 patched in to 80 body and 93 runner chasi. You may be right about what it does but I did test it, pulled it off ran like crap put it back together ran great. Can't explain it other than what I put in my previous post. We shall see what happens tomorrow when I drive it to work. Yes I have two sensors at the front under the throttle body, new and connected but you never know one of them could be going out but they are both less than a year old. Could happen though, find out soon enough....lol

 

Ran really good today I do think I should pull the idle back just a smidgen but other than that no problems yet.

 

Now it takes several times to get it to crank it over... Just can't win

 

Ok figured out the cranking crankiness, now I have to figure out why the idle sometimes doesn't want to drop, most of the time now when I push in the clutch pedal the idle just screams and I have to tap the gas pedal to get it to drop, but in the last couple of days it just goes higher... Sigh... Checked the gaskets on the throttle body and upper air intake, checked and repaired vacuum lines and the problem is still very mysterious. Frustrated

 

Did you clean the inside of the throttle body?

 

Check the Dashpot, it's the small round plastic plunger on the throttle linkage at the throttle body. If the little filter inside gets dirty, it sticks or takes longer to return to idle. It's adjustable also. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...34throttle.pdf page EG1–198

 

No I am planning on doing that this weekend

 

I once saw something that resembles a dash pot on my throttle body but it was literally just hanging there not touching anything so I removed it. At the time it made no difference in how the truck ran but so many things were wrong with the truck when I bought it that it might be what the difference is now that many things have been corrected. How ever the rubber accordian boot is missing and can't seem to locate another dash pot.

 

It's not going to help close the throttle, it just lets it close slowly. If it's missing, then the problem of the idle not dropping is elsewhere. Check the cable & linkage, the cable might be adjusted too tight.

 

Could a tight cable cause the "tap the gas to drop the idle"? Next question could a bad o2 sensor cause the idle issue?

 

An overly tightened cable, or worn throttle shaft, or a bad cable could. Check the gas pedal also. A bad O2 sensor, no.

 

Where is the throttle shaft, is that part of the linkage? Or in the throttle body itself? Forgive my lack of knowledge but it's the first time I've heard of it

 

It's in the throttle body. The cable attaches to the linkage, linkage turns throttle shaft, which opens the throttle valve inside. Usually there will be a good vacuum leak where the shaft is when it gets worn out. I guess I should correct myself, it's not the shaft that wears out, it's the bushing it sits in that wears out.

 

That makes complete sense its the only place I have not checked for a vacuum leak, is it possible to put in new bushings? And where do I get them?

 

It's best to replace with a new or rebuilt throttle body when they're worn, putting bushings in requires precision work and tools. Check the cable and all the linkage between the gas pedal and throttle first.

 

Ok I'll do that first, is there a way other than the vacuum leak to tell if the bushings are worn? Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I'm grateful for the info. I am hoping that the cable or a good cleaning is the issue a new throttle body is not a cheap fix.