morrisonclunker

Help I do not know what else to do. I got spark and tons of fuel pressure but my injectors are not working. I have replaced the COR relay, ignition coil, and pick up coil. Checked all my grounds and they all appear to be good. I did find the 3 wires that run from the ignitor to ECU to have fallen behind the engine and when I pulled the wire up it was wet with coolant. (By the way this all happened after my coolant line busted that comes from my water pump and turns 180 degrees back into the EFI manifold.) Not only were the wires wet but I have found that they have been spliced before. I did a continuity check between the plug and ecu and it checked good. I need help. Please any information appreciated. I dont know what else to do. Thanks in advace. (86 4Runner 22RE)

myyota

I had this same problem happen on my 86 4Runner, everything was good, but no spark, so after checking everything i could think of and not finding the problem, i decided to try the spare solenoid resistor that i had laying around, and my 4Runner started on the first try. Ive never heard of anyone here having problems with this part going out before, but in my case it did. The solenoid resistor is mounted on the passenger inner fender and has two plugs comming out of it.

morrisonclunker

Oh yea. Sorry forgot to mention I replaced the selonoid resistor. I actually have read your thread before and gave it a try. Do you think it could be the ignitor? Thanks for the help keep them coming!

myyota

You said the the wires from the ignitor to the computer had fallen behind the engine and had been spliced before, and that they were wet with coolant, so i would start there first. Pull the wires out and check the splice, make sure the conections are good and there not coroded from the coolant getting in there. Wiring can test good with a meter but be bad to were it won`t carry any power throught it. Its also possible that the coolant caused a short and shorted out the ignitor, but thats just a guess, im just throwing out ideas.

morrisonclunker

Thanks that is what i was thinking as well. Is there any other way to test the wire. Also does anyone know how to test the ignitor.

pb4ugotobed

Do a voltage drop test, not just a continuity test. It may test fine with continuity, but as soon as you start feeding voltage and current through there, if it's corroded or something it will quickly start to build resistance and you could easily be losing enough voltage to make stuff quit working.

annoyingrob

Why would the ignitor have anything to do with injectors? Ignitor handles spark, not fuel.

If you're getting spark, your ignitor is working properly, and your ECU is getting the necessary signals from the motor to fire. Check to see if you have power going to one of the pins on the injector clips. It's very likely your injectors are getting signals from the ECU to fire, but they aren't powered.

morrisonclunker

I was under the impression that pick up coil also sends a signal for the injectors to work. The wires from the pick up coil run to the ignitor. That is where I am getting my thought that it may be the ignitor. Please correct me if I am wrong; it is very likely that I am.

Also, you are correct in saying that I am not getting any power to my injectors. I put a noid light on them and I am not getting any pulse. My thoughts were that the ignitor was not sending the signal to the ecu form the pick up coil. Am I way off in right field here? Anyone have any other thoughts? Thanks for all the comments, please keep them coming.

myyota

Try checking the EFI fuse behind the kick panel on the driver side, check it to see if its corroded, if it is either replace the fuse or scrape the contacts clean on the old fuse and try and clean the contacts were the fuse plugs in if you can. I just had this same problem on my 4Runner were my windshield wipers quit working, and it was the fuse that was corroded in the fuse block.

annoyingrob

If you look at the wiring diagram for a 22R-E, you'll see that the injector signals come from the ECU, not the ignitor.

Instead of sticking the test light on both of the injector pins, stick it on one pin, and to ground, then try it on the other pin and ground. One of the pins should cause the light to light up all the time, as it's always at 12 volts. If you're not getting a constant 12 volts on one of the pins, something's wrong. I'll take a look at my 86 FSM for you and figure out where it gets power.

pb4ugotobed

There should be a ground strap that connects to the head itself... which should be the main ground for the injectors. Have you checked the injectors ground? Loose or bad grounds can cause ALL sorts of weird f'd up problems...

mikelusk1

I had the exact same problem with my 88 4Runner.

i tested the power going to the injector plugs and was getting power. but when i had a noid light on it wouldnt flash.

The ECM grounds the injectors to make them fire so they should always have power going to them.

x2 on checking the grounds

x2 on checking the efi fuse behind the drivers side kickpanel. mine was blown and kept blowing due to a short. my short was in the wiring harness that comes from the AFM and goes in front of the radiator and then goes right next to the battery. it was chaffing on the battery and there were like 5 bare wires that were touching and corroding. pretty easy fix once you find it.

good luck. Hope this helps.

morrisonclunker

To everyone thanks for all your comments and sorry I havent been here in awhile, things have been busy for me; my faimly has been fighting this early flu/cold thing. I have checked my EFI fuse and it is good. I have been all over the grounds and they all seem to be good. I will try the noid light trick and check the wiring harness from the AFM for chaffing. This is still so stange to me that this has all happened from a blown coolant hose. Is there anyway to test the ECU. Please keep your comments coming thanks for everything.

sb5walker

The igniter DOES affect whether the ecu will fire the injectors. IGF is sent from the igniter to the ecu to confirm ignition. The ecu starts out firing the injectors (by pulsing ground on terminals #10 & #20), but if it does not receive an IGF signal, it stops grounding the injectors after few cycles.

Power to the injectors comes from IG2 off the ignition switch, and as mentioned there should always be power at the injector connector when ignition is on. Verify the leads from injectors to ecu by verifying that terms #10 & #20 have power when ignition is on.

Because the injector pulses are so brief (around 30 thousands of a second on a cold motor at idle, IIRC) a noid light often won't catch them. You would probably need a meter with a peak hold or record min/max feature to catch one. But you don't really need to catch a pulse, just check that power makes it to and through the injectors and to the ecu terms. Easiest way to tell if the injectors are firing is to place the metal rod of a mechanics stethoscope against the metal body of the injector; if it's firing, the clicks will be loud and clear.

As a couple of the posts here suggested, even though you got continuity between the ecu and igniter connector, one of those leads could be shorted to ground, which would prevent the signal from getting through. Used coolant conducts electricity. Also, if there were too much resistance from corrosion and a splice, that could be enough to prevent the signal from getting through.

Finally, make sure the ecu has a good ground to the motor. Verify that there's no appreciable resistance between ecu terminals E01/E02 and the engine.

But I think it's likely you're on the right track with those coolant soaked, spliced igniter leads.

morrisonclunker

I have respliced the wires with new wire and splices. Still wont start. I have removed the injectors before to see if I could get anything to spray from them and nothing. Since all this i have tested almost everything (I think) according to my haynes and chiltons manual. In one of the manuals it states that if there is no power to the injectors it is likely to be the ECU. sb5walker I havent done your checks yet but I will. Everything that I have read on the ECU makes it seem like they are bullet proof unless they get wet. Well mine is not wet that is what makes me think that it might be the ignitor. Although I have had problem with it running and starting when was cold, all the checks for the sensors test good; ECU maybe and the overheating was the straw that broke its back. So anyway I continue to check wires but I think it is a component and I am down to the ECU and ignitor. Thanks for all the input everyone has been a big help, keep em coming.--
--Today I replaced a ground that I never had before someone posted a great thread on all the grounds and added pictures check it out it is a big help.