I'm telling ya bro, get two turbos from the early 90s nissan 300zx twin turbos. They're perfectly sized for a stock 3vze, won't have too much lag, and won't fall on their face up top. Plus they're small so placing them won't be as challenging.

They're garrett turbos, probably the equivalent of a T22.


EGR is useless, from my experience. Just exclude it as it'll make your life easier. as for intercoolers, your idea of twin small intercoolers is good. Pick up either stock 300zx TT intercoolers or get two stock mitsubishi eclipse side mount intercoolers. They're small but efficient and will work well for your boost levels and the small turbos, plus mounting will be easier as you don't want one big front mount that will block the radiator and cause overheating issues.

 

thanks man for lettin me know that yea i might plan on using two 300zx turbos but i prolly wanna be able to run more than 7psi thou. yea im not gonan be using a big intercooler cuz i going to have to squeeze the intercooler inbetween the valance and frame. a lil fabing will have to be done thou. and also i should leave out the egr valve? what about the reed valve?
thank man again!

 

Shoes, you aren't doing anything that's many haven't tried before...that is:
'polishing the turd'

Many people with more exprience than you display have tried it and you won't find one who says:
"yea, I'm glad I did this, it was worth the investment"
Myself included. I've 'polished the turd' as far as it'll go and could have done a SC3.4 for 1/3 of what I've wasted on the 3.slow. I mean, yea, mine runs real good for a 3.turd, but it's still a turd that I wish I'd never spent a dime on.

If you are really determined to run the 3VZE you got for free, don't spend a dime more than you have to to get it running.
Instead, take all that $ you would have spent polishing the turd and put it in a savings account. And when someone snows you into believing their gofast goodie will actually make a difference on the 3.turd, put that money in the savings account too. When the 3.turd dies again you'll have enough to put a decent motor in there.

 

how do u think new head bolts and grindin the cams are gonna help with the head gasket problem? the head gasket blew, it jus needs to be replaced..

 

Well, for all the money that stuff will take,have you considered a small block chevy? V8 power and torque for dirt cheap.

 

hey shoes, a little off topic but wut kind of drop kit are you using on your pickup? It looks like you removed a leaf and have a drop block on the back. What did you do the front of the truck to get it to sit that low? I would greatly appreciate it.

Chris

 

Just a guess but my friend lowered his S10 with a spindle drop. Dont know if theres one of these for a toyota. You can probably get smaller torsion bars off a mazda or nissan as well.

 

what kind of drop i have is in the front i lowered the torsion bars. And for the back i took at the helper leaf and put 3 inch blocks.

 

I wanna stay in the family of toyota motors

I have read alot of threads on building up 3vz-e and the only one i have seen doing the what im going to do was bumpin yota. Im still gonna do it no matter what but thanks for your opinion thou! if you can find more threads on builds about the 3vz-e please let me know!

 

Google www.pirate4x4.com turbo 3VZE. There was a guy on there that successuflly turbo'd his 3.0 4Runner. I think he used a remote turbo, and some of his piping was kinda funky(he had to go through the fender...it is a really tight engine bay). He was using a 7th injector controlled by Megasquirt to keep up with extra fuel under boost.

It's a bit of a frankenstein set up, but it's super cool, and it works.

 

very well said! Being different is one thing, but even if you did get that engine running with twin turbos (or even one for that matter) it is still going to be a gasket blowing, gas guzzling and even more unreliable engine than it started out as. I hate seeing people waste money and i think that you will be wasting A LOT OF MONEY AND TIME trying to get it to work. you will save money, time, and less aggrivation by doing a supercharged 3.4 swap. and best of all it will ALL still be toyota just like you want. In my oppinoin seeing a supercharger sitting on top of a 3.4 in a 1989 truck is way cooler than seeing a 3.turd with turbos mickey-moused on to it.

 

So you didnt use 3in drop lower control arms? About how many inches did you lower the T-bars? Do you have problems with alignment? How many inches are you from hitting the frame in the back? How many inches all around is it dropped? sorry for all the off topic questions, but you truck is how I want mine to sit. THanks,

Chris

 

i think i dropped about 3 1/2 inches in the front, and as for an alignment all that needed to be adjusted was the toe. the axel has about 3inches from hitting the frame but if i didnt take out the bumpstops it would be resting on them. So i recommend that you take them out or replace them with smaller ones. 3 1/2 inch in the front and the back 3inches

 

well this what i did today i got the cam gears off, the fuel rail n the lower intake off! It was pretty to take off everything after the fact i purchased a breaker bar! man you gotta love leverage. Hopefully manana i will be able to get the heads off and make a trip to the machine shop! here are some of the pics






Also had a question on how this cam looks! now i know the right cam shaft is not suppost to have this big crater in it! would it still be fine or should i get another one?

 

The hole in the cam is there for oiling I think. I would guess the wear streaks are just from use.

 

Thanks Shoes, your the man!!! Good luck with your engine build.


Chris

 

Yes, the hole is for oil. The scratches are an indication the cam was run while suffering from lube failure. Either from a lack of oil or from breakdown of the oil. I.E. oil pump failure, poor oil change interval, over heating etc. It doesn't look like overall age wear to me at all, others may differ on their opinions. That wear would lead me to believe the rest of the engine is in comparable shape & of course is just my opinion.

Edit: I didn't notice the chunk missing until chimmike mentioned it. Strange place for a fracture; is that baked on crap stuck to the cam or is it a missing piece of metal?? If it's missing metal...NO it will not be fine. Get another cam.

 

well I see the chunk out of the portion of the cam there, not that oiling hole, that looks bad.


I've been thinking lately, being that this is an oversquare cylinder design, with bucket over shim valvetrain, what kind of craptacular internal balancing system do we have to prevent us from revving above 6krpm? I mean.....the tech specs of this motor lend itself to one that COULD rev to 7k without a sweat as piston speeds won't be excessive

 

so i should prolly get a new one huh? well im off to court this mornin but i will elelaborate later. but ill take the heads off today thou!

 

i also had a question about the oil pan n the oil filter. As for the oil pan do i need to replace it or could i just leave it since it is a 4x4 oil pan or would i have to swap the one from mine? Also could i relocate the oil filter to where the 2wheel drive ones are??