Would someone please tell me whats up with the gears that say reverse rotation?

 

and i cant find a master install kit for the front that fits a V6. would the 4cyl master install kit work for me? or do i have to track some down somewhere?

 

ok, im gonna get 5.29 PG gears. but can i use a yukon or PORC master install kit for the rear? and will still need to know about the front master install kit.

 

i found the front Yukon master install kit for the V6. now i just need to know if i cn use PG gears and Yukon or PORC install kits

 

does anybody know if i can use PG gears and Yukon or PORC install kits?

 

Yes, you can use any set up kit with any gear. Reverse cut gears are for high pinion differentials. Make sure you have a competent gear setter put them in or you just wasted a bunch of money

 

well my Grandpa used to do some diff's so he's going to help me out. but i have to wait till my friend buys my stuff before i can afford the rear set-up and then i have to save for the front, so $800 shipped for front and rear complete. its not cheap, but it'll be worth ever ratio. So hopefully this week i'll order the rear and install kit then wait till i can buy the front before i install the rear.

Housesitting is a good way to earn money! thank god people go away on vacation.

 

What i mean is for highway cruising, if i cruise at 80, i think its just above 3500 rpms. give or take a few hundred. And i try to keep it below 3500 since it is such an old engine, i just thought if the gears were too low then it the rpms would be a lot higher for highway cruising and it would be too hard on the engine.

 

I think you will wish you got a locker instead.

 

ditto on the locker since gears are absolutely useless when all of that extra torque at the wheels does nothing but spin the tire with least traction even more.

I hope you either have a press or your good friends with somebody who has a press... Toyota differentials are easy to work with because they use spanners rather than shims for CBPL/backlash, the only big PITA is getting the pinion depth right since you have to press the inner pinion bearing on and off every time you wana change the shim stack. Since you definately dont know anything about gears i would recomend getting a really good automotive textbook that covers gears, read it cover to cover, read some gear setups here, and then read all of the gear install writeups by Zuk at http://www.gearinstalls.com/ he has some very good info for beginers. Be patient with your new gears because a hasty assembly WILL lead to premature failure or a pinion deflection. And follow the 500 mile breakin period very meticulously because those suckers do get very very hot while they are still wearing to eachother and you don't wana push them.

 

80 will be really high rpms. For me it wasn't a big deal, since the highest speed limit in the state is 75, and I never drive that fast anyway, because I like to get good gas mileage.

But, I said that in my previous post. Not really fast.

 

Maybe ask a reputable shop if you can sit through a regearing one of your diffs, and then do the other one with your grandpa. I had to take my diff in because I mess up an Aussie Locker install. That's supposed to be really easy as far as diffs go. I've done head gaskets, suspension, timing chain etc. and worked on multiple types of vehicles so its not like I'm unfamiliar with wrench work. I still found the simple gear stuff hard. I wouldn't ever touch a re-gearing project. I think that is about the one thing I wouldn't attempt on my truck.

 

i would do a locker but i only want a selectable locker in the rear and LSD in the front. but i want to buy the rear first so i have to wait till i can afford a selectable locker for the rear.

 

I understand the selectable rear... but why the LSD for the front?

 

i figure LSD for the front because of the wheeling that i would do down here. and a LSD would only be usefull when in 4WD and since it is not that often that the front would loose traction compared to the rear. I dont really know why but it just seems i would be both easier to install and just as funtional as a selectable but only functions when in 4WD. do you know what im saying. i dont really know how to explain it.

 

I'm not getting what your saying... Most people put selectables up front because it is a PIA to turn with the front end locked up. It's nice to have the front open until you really need it. With my detroit up front and 37's you really had to manhandle it. I went to Hydro Assist and that helped a lot. If I ever rebuild the front end it's getting an E-locker up front.

 

Well, im not going to be wheeling hard all the time, ill put my truck to the test once a year with the Toyota Tour and maybe the 4wheelin compition but thats it, other than that it would be:
A) cheaper for LSD in the front &
B) un-need selectable in the front.

I guess i cant explain what im thinking. but LSD is more $$$ sense than a selectable locker $$$$$$$$$$. it just seems to me that the rear would loose traction more often than the front, i could be wrong, i havent done anything hard for over a year and i have forgotten.

I'm 19, let me experiment eh!

 

Really, a mechanical locker in the rear isn't as bad as web wheelers think it is. I'm used to pretty civilized cars; Corollas and 2WD pickups and the rear locker wasn't an issue. Even on ice- which I imagine in Belize isn't an issue.

I think you'd be happiest with a rear Powertrax No-Slip (smoothest locker aside from a Aussie as far as I can tell) and a front ARB. Maybe TC or AxleIke (I think he has a front LSD) will chime in again with their experiences with a front LSD. They found it to be useless.

 

Well, for one thing thing, when the Marl(type of dirt here) gets wet, it is like ice! no kidding. But like i said, $$$ is an issue and since im young enough, i want be able to say, i ran a LSD in the front. so either i'll be happy or unhappy i dont and wont know until i can afford to get it all done.

 

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml