Locker help
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Locker help
Grizzly yukon locker
how difficult is the install on a 87 turbo 4runner automatic? REAR
so i need new carrier bearings, ring and pinion,? any tips or advice will be appreciated. Never done one before...
how difficult is the install on a 87 turbo 4runner automatic? REAR
so i need new carrier bearings, ring and pinion,? any tips or advice will be appreciated. Never done one before...
Last edited by 87-4runner; 08-20-2023 at 02:18 PM.
#3
Registered User
Have you already purchased the grizzly??
I have an opinion on auto lockers that you may or may not want to hear, if you know the cons and have researched already I’ll save it…
I have an opinion on auto lockers that you may or may not want to hear, if you know the cons and have researched already I’ll save it…
Last edited by Discombobulated; 08-20-2023 at 07:41 PM.
#4
Registered User
Toolwise: You need press, you need a decent puller to get the carrier bearings off, you need a dial indicator for setting backlash, you need an in-lb beam type torque wrench to gauge the pinion preload.
Partswise: You need either a new crush sleeve or a solid pinion spacer, you may need some extra pinion shims to help you get the right preload, you need a new pinion seal and of course pinion bearing and new carrier bearings to freshen it all up. You really don't need a new ring and pinion, unless yours are just badly worn or you are changing ratios.
Those grizzly lockers seem pricey, for that kind of money you are pretty close to the cost a selectable like an ARB...you may want to consider that. I have an Aussie lunchbox locker in rear of my truck, and it pops and clicks and I can easily spin the rear tires when it is wet out and get a little fishtail action. Back when I bought it, it was only like maybe $200, I felt like it was a reasonable option for getting the rear locked. If I had to do it today, I'd probably go selectable.
Partswise: You need either a new crush sleeve or a solid pinion spacer, you may need some extra pinion shims to help you get the right preload, you need a new pinion seal and of course pinion bearing and new carrier bearings to freshen it all up. You really don't need a new ring and pinion, unless yours are just badly worn or you are changing ratios.
Those grizzly lockers seem pricey, for that kind of money you are pretty close to the cost a selectable like an ARB...you may want to consider that. I have an Aussie lunchbox locker in rear of my truck, and it pops and clicks and I can easily spin the rear tires when it is wet out and get a little fishtail action. Back when I bought it, it was only like maybe $200, I felt like it was a reasonable option for getting the rear locked. If I had to do it today, I'd probably go selectable.
#5
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Thread Starter
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
So since I started this post I contacted my cousin and he had been doing diffs for nearly 20 years. He's going to install it for me. He's VERY OCD a perfectionist. I know it will be done right. Heck he might even give me a family discount, if I don't help. Lol
#7
Registered User
Auto lockers are not the best choice behind an automatic tranny because the auto tranny never really unloads the locker as it needs to be unloaded when commencing a turn.
When behind a manual tranny, the operator can learn how to unload the drivetrain to optimally allow the locker to rachet.
In my opinion, the Powertrax No-Slip syncro equipped locker is the best lunchbox type locker for the rear by far.
But I would not put any kind of non-selectable locker behind an auto tranny on any machine that sees a lot of street driving.
Just my .02
When behind a manual tranny, the operator can learn how to unload the drivetrain to optimally allow the locker to rachet.
In my opinion, the Powertrax No-Slip syncro equipped locker is the best lunchbox type locker for the rear by far.
But I would not put any kind of non-selectable locker behind an auto tranny on any machine that sees a lot of street driving.
Just my .02
Last edited by millball; 08-21-2023 at 06:24 PM.
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87-4runner (08-21-2023)
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#8
Registered User
If I understand correctly, the original turbo 3rd member is a 4 pinion carrier type just as the V-6 carriers are.
If the grizzly locker you bought is not for a 4 pinion 6 cylinder type carrier, it won't fit anyway.
Can you show a pic of it, or give the part number???
If the grizzly locker you bought is not for a 4 pinion 6 cylinder type carrier, it won't fit anyway.
Can you show a pic of it, or give the part number???
Last edited by millball; 08-21-2023 at 07:11 PM.
#9
Registered User
I’ll try to keep it short, I bought one in 2012 when I re geared for my 31’s, I wanted to go ARB but at the time the cost was too much and I didn’t want to figure out on board air etc.
The couple times I needed it wheeling it was absolutely wonderful, the other 99% of the time I hated it.
Random engaging and disengaging drove me nuts, it sounds like something breaks every time it would have a hissy fit.
Driving on slippery surfaces was super sketchy unless you were in 4WD and even then I didn’t trust it. Making a left or right turn if you slip just the lightest it locks hard and away your rear end slides.
I wouldn’t let my wife take my truck in the snow because you have to be used to it.
I thought something was wrong with it but after some research it seems to be the norm for auto lockers.
About a year ago I notice my rear end was doing some really odd stuff, lots of noise and while driving it felt like it was binding.
I took it to my mechanic and he said everything ate itself, the locker was froze together and destroyed everything in it gears were fried etc, needed a full rebuild.
I bought an Eaton E-locker and have never looked back, what a difference an open diff makes!!!!! No more noises and pops etc and when I need it I have it when I don’t it’s smooth as butter.
Now of course I paid an arm and a leg for the Eaton and maybe a toe but in the long run my OCD is happy and I’m happy..
If you can afford a selectable and you are going through the trouble of the entire rear end rebuild I would just do it. If it’s not in the cards you do you!!!
All my opinion of course
NOW, could it have been just time and it ate itself sure?? But I personally hated every minute I owned it…
The couple times I needed it wheeling it was absolutely wonderful, the other 99% of the time I hated it.
Random engaging and disengaging drove me nuts, it sounds like something breaks every time it would have a hissy fit.
Driving on slippery surfaces was super sketchy unless you were in 4WD and even then I didn’t trust it. Making a left or right turn if you slip just the lightest it locks hard and away your rear end slides.
I wouldn’t let my wife take my truck in the snow because you have to be used to it.
I thought something was wrong with it but after some research it seems to be the norm for auto lockers.
About a year ago I notice my rear end was doing some really odd stuff, lots of noise and while driving it felt like it was binding.
I took it to my mechanic and he said everything ate itself, the locker was froze together and destroyed everything in it gears were fried etc, needed a full rebuild.
I bought an Eaton E-locker and have never looked back, what a difference an open diff makes!!!!! No more noises and pops etc and when I need it I have it when I don’t it’s smooth as butter.
Now of course I paid an arm and a leg for the Eaton and maybe a toe but in the long run my OCD is happy and I’m happy..
If you can afford a selectable and you are going through the trouble of the entire rear end rebuild I would just do it. If it’s not in the cards you do you!!!
All my opinion of course
NOW, could it have been just time and it ate itself sure?? But I personally hated every minute I owned it…
Last edited by Discombobulated; 08-21-2023 at 07:34 PM.
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millball (08-22-2023)
#10
Registered User
Millball is correct. The 4 cylinder turbo has a V6 rear diff so make sure you have the correct locker. There "MIGHT" be conversion bearings to use it either way though. Just something to confirm before you start so you can have all the correct parts on hand. Good luck with your project and please follow up with how it all goes.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Millball is correct. The 4 cylinder turbo has a V6 rear diff so make sure you have the correct locker. There "MIGHT" be conversion bearings to use it either way though. Just something to confirm before you start so you can have all the correct parts on hand. Good luck with your project and please follow up with how it all goes.
#12
Registered User
I thought you might have a 'lunchbox locker' that goes into a stock Toyota gear carrier, but it looks like your unit is a complete carrier type,
made to fit into a 4 cylinder 3rd member housing.
You should be able to use it in your housing with the correct conversion carrier bearings, as aztoyman said.
I'd still think twice about running it on an auto truck used much on the street.
You sure got a good buy at a hundred bucks.
Interested in hearing what you decide and how everything goes.
made to fit into a 4 cylinder 3rd member housing.
You should be able to use it in your housing with the correct conversion carrier bearings, as aztoyman said.
I'd still think twice about running it on an auto truck used much on the street.
You sure got a good buy at a hundred bucks.
Interested in hearing what you decide and how everything goes.
Last edited by millball; 08-21-2023 at 09:44 PM.
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87-4runner (08-22-2023)
#13
Registered User
I'm looking forward to hearing how you like it. I've been running auto lockers on the street for years not only in my Toyota but large service trucks for work. They were all manual transmissions so I stepped on the clutch and coasted around corners. I always wondered how they would do in an automatic so please follow up with this thread.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm looking forward to hearing how you like it. I've been running auto lockers on the street for years not only in my Toyota but large service trucks for work. They were all manual transmissions so I stepped on the clutch and coasted around corners. I always wondered how they would do in an automatic so please follow up with this thread.
#15
Registered User
Sorry I was so negative on the Grizzly, but after having one for so long and loving my selectable soooo much I just had to chime in….
But like I said selectable is the way to go IMO, I mean you got such a good deal on that one you could sell and maybe look at another option.
If you decide to not go with the grizzly what’s your plan??
But like I said selectable is the way to go IMO, I mean you got such a good deal on that one you could sell and maybe look at another option.
If you decide to not go with the grizzly what’s your plan??
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sorry I was so negative on the Grizzly, but after having one for so long and loving my selectable soooo much I just had to chime in….
But like I said selectable is the way to go IMO, I mean you got such a good deal on that one you could sell and maybe look at another option.
If you decide to not go with the grizzly what’s your plan??
But like I said selectable is the way to go IMO, I mean you got such a good deal on that one you could sell and maybe look at another option.
If you decide to not go with the grizzly what’s your plan??
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