I am looking at ordering 2" inch lift softride springs for the rear to fix my sag, tilt the truck forward for the more modern stance and to provide sufficient load carrying capicity to handle my firewood hauling through fire roads. I was wondering if anyone has used the softride 2" springs wihout lifitng the front. I don't want to crank the torsion bars or use balljoint spacers. I would realy like to see pics of 2" springs in the rear installed on a similar year truck.

 

Jack the rear end up 2" then put jackstands under the frame and let the axle droop down

 

Or get a friend to lift the back up 2" and take a picture.

 

Here is my truck with half a lift in it. Stock front, 2 inch toytec add a leafs in back

 

thanks yota power.

 

Though I like the forward rake appearance, and even though with new 'stock' springs the rear is slightly higher than the front...
... one "little" thing to consider:
If the front / rear height difference is too much, it'll make a proper front-end alignment near impossible to achieve since lifting the rear too far will put proper caster out of reach (since lifting the rear causes the imaginary line between the upper and lower ball joints to pivot forward) and can cause some numbness or wandering when travelling a straight line.
I'm not saying you'll experience that problem. I'm just saying it so you'll be aware of what may be the cause of problem IF you run in to the issue.

 

That is something I never thought of. So should I just stick with the JC whitney stock replacements? The reason I was thinking of going to 2" lift is I will be fabricating a heavier bed with some compartments to store the cahinsaws, tools, ropes, etc...

So I thought if the springs sag the 2" that I lifted it, it will look stock. Am I wrong? Thanks for all the input. This place iis invalluable!

 

So i ordered the JC Whitney springs. Good deal. $312.00 total for both springs, bushings and shipping. I really dont 4 wheel hardcore like some of you guys. Its my DD and my wood getter. I need function more than fun. Anyway here is the link for anyone who may be interested. The reviews were good on the product and sounds like they lift it a little more than stock stance.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...8S5ce0FCGFnvND

 

I've been looking at just getting some aal's from Advanced Auto. That should give you a bit of a lift and help with the wood. Anyone see an issue with this?

 

The aal's is a good idea. I figure I can always add one if needed. I'm hoping that the new springs will be sufficient. I noticed on mine that the bushings are deformed. So maybe the spring / bushing combo will be enough.

Has anyone had any experience with the JC Whitney springs?

 

Can't say that I have. I have purchased other things from them and it all seems alright.

 

So I got them in over the weekend. What a B#*@H that was. Had to take a 7" cut off wheel to the front hanger bolts. Picked up a couple grade 8 bolts from Lowes. The springs leveled it out just right. I can jump up and down on the rear bumper and it feels nice and tight, hardly moves. Before when I jumped, it would practicly hit the bump stops. I will post pics when I get the chance.

I ordered a bushing set to go with the springs but the leafs had a bushing already in place and I was unable to get it out without torching it. The bolts I got form lowes fit the replacement bushings but where a 1000th to big for the bushings already in the leafs. I dont own a torch and didn't want to damage the springs so I just left the bushing in the springs and chased out the sleeves with my 9/16's bit on my press. Worked like a charm. The bolts I replaced the stock ones with are 9/16s because Lowes didn't have any metric grade 8 that large. Anyway, got them in and there a bit stronger due to the larger size.

Somone on here posted the other day asking about stock springs. Icouldn't find the post, so I hope this helps whoever you are. If there is one thing you need to plan ahead with, it is having the replacment bolts and a 7" cutoff wheel. A 4" will not cut it.

The other advantage to cuting off the bolts is that you do not have to drop the fuel tank when removing the passenger side.

 

Over the weekend I added aal's and it seemed to help out a bit. I notice while I was under there I have a busted leaf on the drivers side. The one in the middle is broke, I'm going to put a U bold on it for now, until I can get new springs (new to me). Did stiffen it up some.

 

Heres a Pic of mine with a pro-comp shoft leaf AAL in teh rear of mine. I had the same problem with the rear end sagging. It drove me crazy. Thats why it was one of the first Mod's that I did. Let me know if this helps.

 

why cant you just get 2" or 3" lift blocks? its cheaper since your just hauling wood and not offroading.

 

This is how she sits after the install. I
would still like to go 1" more in the rear
for load capacity. I'm going to fab up a
new pair of shackes with some steel
plate and grade 8 bolts.




New OME springs . Raised the rear
about two inches. Can now carry a
heavy load safely.

Replaced all bushings and new grade
8 bolts.