Does it really need to come off?? Sometimes the pulley is blocking a bolt or two, but generally just spin the pulley until you can get the socket and extension through an opening in the pulley spokes. At least, this works on the 5vz-fe.

Doesn't look like the PS pump pulley needs to come off (see post 16):
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...vations-32812/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-183911/ This post has TONS of great pictures of the process.

 

There aren't any spokes on the pulley .

Which way does the bolt come off? Left I'm assuming... I can't keep the pulley from turning enough to take the bolt off....




1992 4runner btw.

 

Take a look at those above links...looks like they left the PS pulley on the pump and had no problem completing the job.

 

Oh thank you! didn't even notice them before.


Really stressed out here, too much on my mind to think straight!

Thanks!

 

I may have added those link in after you looked at the post originally.

Welcome!

 

ahh, well good! Maybe I'm not going crazy after all...

Thanks so much, those threads just saved my life! What a awesome reference! Can't get much better than that!

 

Alright folks, I've got the old water pump off!

Question.... I KNOW someone else/dealer has torn down to the water pump before.

1: 2 of the 3 collets from the plastic timing cover are missing
2: Only the rubber gasket maker was used, no gasket. (hence why I was leaking)



Now, I have the proper gasket for the new water pump.
I've heard you should use BOTH gasket maker and an actually gasket. If you use both, how to do use them? sandwich the gasket maker on either side of the gasket?

What is the best gasket maker to use? Is the RTV stuff from Napa good?

 

I'm passed the water pump & thermostat. Hopefully it works out and I wont have any leaks...


Alined the timing mark on the camshaft with the timing mark on the oil pump body.

Put belt on

Put plastic timing cover back on

Put camshaft pulley and bolt on

Finished routing the belt on all the pulleys.


After getting the belt on, each sprocket timing marks line up perfectly and the timing mark on the camshaft pulley is at right on 0 degrees BTDC.


After turning the crank/pulley over only one time, the timing mark on the pulley goes to 5 degrees BTDC and fluctuates back and fourth from there after every rotation. (keep in mind the timing marks on the sprockets are lined up perfect when its at about/around 5 degrees BTDC)

Just to clarify, the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley goes to the right of 0, not the left.

Is this a problem??? I've had the Timing belt off twice now and it has done the same thing both times.... When I set the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley to 0 the timing marks on the sprockets are off 1 tooth.


What am I missing here? will this be a problem???


Help please!

 

I hope you don't have to drive it tomorrow. The timing cover needs to be replaced, it sounds like. I know people are getting metal ones as replacements. I think they come from enginebldr.
I need to do this soon as a precaution, not due to leaks so I hope someone helps you out soon. All I can recommend for now is try the search feature, google and youtube for help.

 

The timing belt cover? I don't understand how that relates...


I've searched high and low, found a few things related, but not exactly what I'm having a problem with...

 

If you're rolling the crank over from TDC should be two full rotations for the cam sprockets to line back up, you marked them right? So is it returning back to the same place every two rotations?
I just took a picture of this if you need a visual..

Did you adjust the tensioner back again? Because you'll have play in the belt until you get that adjusted back, there should be a spring holding it, and a bolt in the center, you slide it in with the spring on and then tighten the bolt.

 

The cam sprockets line up perfect every two rotations, but when they are lined up, the crank shaft pulley does not line up at 0 degrees.

I believe the tensioner is tight enough, not much slack in it anywhere... Should I try to get it as tight as possible or somewhere in between?

Is the lining up of the oil pump body and the crank shaft timing mark + the timing marks on the cam shaft sprockets more important than the 0-5 degree's it ends up on?

Can I retard or advance the timing on the crank shaft timing mark to compensate for the amount of degrees I'm off? If I do, I'm assuming that would just throw the cam shaft timing off too though...

 

How did you go about putting the belt back on? The manuals I have show that you put the belt on the crank first, pull it tight around the water pump then slip it over the right cam sprocket (while looking at the engine) then around the tensioner and up over the other cam, this is supposed to take all the slack out so there isn't room for it to slip..

here is the one i've been using... I have a 1990 3.0 so my engine is a slight bit different but its close..

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/timingbe.pdf

I think I'm putting my belt back on tomorrow so I'll let you know if I run into the same problem..

 

Part I'm talking about starts on page EG2–44,
hope this helps

 

I put the timing belt back on just how it is described on that page.

Well folks, I got her running tonight, finally!

Haven't put a timing light to her yet but she runs just like she did before as far as I can tell... so I must have done it right?lol.

Oddly enough, my speedometer decided to work again too!


thanks for all the information guys! Really helps when you ask someone who knows!

 

Awesome good to hear!
One thing to remember if you realize its 5BTDC or something is that the ratio of slipping a tooth on the cams is greater than slipping a tooth on the crank if you need to move a smaller amount.
just my .02