AndYota

First, what I'm dealing with: 1994 4Runner 3VZE, 220,000 miles, all original but the timing belt (replaced at 152,000).

Well, On my way home Friday I was getting some odd noises and oil pressure problems (low, low numbers). I pulled over at one point and added a little oil (low but on the dipstick), and got home but with a serious lack of power. I spent part of my Saturday getting the diff dropped and the oil pan off, and after buying a 12-point 12mm socket, found a nicely spun bearing on the #5 cylinder. The crankshaft is scored a little, and the bearing looks like it got hot enough to start flowing between the crankshaft and connecting rod at one point. I feel like the problem has been there longer than I've been hearing the noise. Anyway, take a look at the pics of the bearing/cap/crankshaft and tell me: rebuild, no rebuild, drop in a used motor. Cost is my biggest obstacle at the moment, so be kind.

Thanks,
Andy

BigSwole

I know your pain.

Junkers88

Although I have no actual advice on the 3.0 I can say that I'm here in Albuquerque and if you need help pulling/replacing/rebuilding an engine let me know a few days in advance and I'll meet you and give you a hand.

I'm not much of a mechanic with the 6 cylinder but I do happen to have two hands that work well together if you need them.

AndYota

Thank you very much! I will let you know when I have decided how to handle the issue.

rattlewagon

Drop in a different 3.0.

I also spun a bearing, and bought a rusted out 4runner with 144k on it. Got the motor, gears and a bunch of other stuff basically for free by stripping and selling off parts from the runner.

Replace head gaskets and rear main when its out, then throw it in.

flashkl

yeah it takes all of 10 months

fierohink

^^^ Ya what re-re said.

If cash is the driving force and you have the know-how or friends who are willing to help, doing a same-for-same swap should only be about 10 good hours of wrench time.

fierohink

I did a quick eBay search and found a short-block here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...Q5fAccessories

So I've got to believe that you could buy a junkyard motor for less then that, $650.

Junkers88

Just checked the U-pull-and-pay here in Albuquerque and they sell complete engines for 199$ with a 25$ core payment.

AndYota if you decide to go that route I've been to that place on Broadway several times and I'm sure we can pull one in a couple of hours and I'll haul it in the back of my 89 if we can stuff it in there. Hell I'll happily come pick you up so we can go take a look at the inventory. It'll give me an excuse to look for more goodies for mine.

http://www.upullandpay.com/Locations...riceGuide.aspx

AndYota

Junkers, I am extremely familiar with the u-pull and pay, I've spent many hours scavenging. I've got them on my list.

Junkers88

Oh. I didn't mean to seem so forward. Just wanted to help a fellow 4runner nut.

AndYota

I wasn't offended, I love that place, and never turn down company on trips that way. I've never left there disappointed

dntsdad

Mine did the exact same thing. Swapped in a 3.4 instead of rebuilding the POS 3.0 and it was the best decision I ever made!!!!

Mine looked about like yours and knocked like hell. I put a new set of stock nearing in and it reduced the knock and lasted me until I could source a suitable 3.4 donor. I drove it like that for about 2-3 months. I changed my bearings the the motor still in. Just removed the pan.

annoyingrob

At least you did it on a cheap motor.

Cyberman

If you had the time, you could get that crank machined, and put new bearings in. I had the same problem on the replacement motor I found. Got the crank machined for just over $100, and while I was at it, put in new pistons and rings.

If you can get a motor that cheap from a pick and pull, I might go that route. The only issue there is not really knowing if there is anything wrong with it till you put it in.

AndYota

Well, i'll hopefully have a replacement vehicle by this weekend. I'll keep the 4runner in the back yard while i get parts together and get it a little more trail-worthy (chop the top, bigger tires, lockers, etc. The u-pull route would be a good source, but I think my block and heads are rebuildable. I'll know more after tear-town.

Duffdog

there is of course another option... though it is generally not done very much anymore: Just replace all the main bearings. That's right, I said it. It is possible to simply replace the main bearings even if the crank is slightly ovalled and still drive the truck around for 100K more miles.

How do I know?

I did exactly that. My 22re was owned by some stupid tweaker before me and he didn't change the oil for about 25,000miles until it ran out of oil. There was a major knocking at medium RPM's, so I pulled the diff, dropped the oil pan and pushed out all the bad main bearings (which were all scored and burned) and thrust bearings and pushed new ones back in. Voila! no problems with the truck whatsoever and it runs perfectly with high oil pressure and no knocking, going on 8 months with 256000 mile engine and having no issues.

Pulling the engine and redoing everything is of course better, but I "reconditioned" my high miles engine for about $120 and it is still driving great.

Team420

^^^ Thats some food for thought right there!

I too can say I have done that to a motor before... not a yota motor, but a polaris snowmobile motor... actually... I didnt even get new parts... had 2 motors... each had a blown bearing, and pretty scorched piston... I took the good bearings, and piston outta one, and combined them to make 1 running motor... I didnt run it for more than a couple weeks, before I sold it, but it ripped like new when I did ride it...

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I'd like to drop a vote for throwing a new bearing on that and keep driving. I've done a couple motors like that and also a few 4wheelers. You'll might get another 100k of driving, and you can be saving and looking out for your next move.

norcal707

I am having the same issue with my 4runner and been wondering if you could only do that. just changing the bad rod bearing? and if you do, how can you tell what size of rod bearing you need?