justinking060310

any suggestions?

foot0069

Tyr using a blow gun on your compressor. Might have to fiddle around with some different size hose. If the valves are open you'll here air at the intake or exhaust.
Jim

kevinkal

I would think that a compression check would verify that your valves are closing.
Do you know if your timing belt is right on or not as Bumpin Yota suggests?

Aside, do you keep your foot off the gas when trying to start it?
How many times have you tried to start it and how long do you let it turn over before giving up before the next try?

I recall it took quite a while before my truck started after i'd done some work that had the intake manifold, timing belt and injectors off. I'd say I cranked it over 10 times for 10 seconds each try before it finally started firing here and there. Then even more tries before it started to actually run roughly. It ran rough as heck for 30 seconds or so.. then purred nicely.

foot0069

Yeah same with my 22re after rebuilding it, didnt think it was gonna go, did play with the tps though had it off so I could clean out the gook. Still took a long time to start. maybe all that oli and assy lube fouls things at first?
Jim

justinking060310

Ive probably rolled it over about 10 times for 20 seconds at at time -- God bless big blue top optima batteries...

I am not positive that timing belt is 100%correct but I would put a paycheck on it - I was very meticulous when I put it on. I would say that my distributer would be off before my timing belt.

Keep in mind everything in the motor is new.... so could be time but dang, i would think it would start and run rough..... It did "try" and run tonight for a few seconds while turning it over with the starter I kept thinking it was running and would let off and it would die.

I do try and keep the foot off the gas since I shouldnt need it... It was just an afterthought to try and get it to fire.


You kind of lost me with the compressed air thing as well....


I think tomorrow I may try and jump the diagnostic connectors.... I might try unplugging the TPS but i dont think that will do anything.....

Bumpin' Yota

If out, and on correctly, it should only be out by about 1/32" of an inch or so, any more and its off a tooth. When I saw 1/32", I thought I had screwed something up on mine.

Also the distributor rotor gear's mark hsould line up with the distributor body, and that should line up with the distributor stay. Should slide right on in.


I think I agree your dist may be out of whack....

What he meant was to put compressed air into the sparkplug hole when the piston should be at TDC with the valves closed. If they arent closed the air will escape into the intake tract or the exhaust tract. If they are indeed closed then the air will just come back out at the rubber nozzle on the tip of your air blaster.

Guardian_Saint

Unscrew your distributor and pull it out, then redone your timing to its spec., all line up perfectly then put your distributor back in just make sure it is pointing toward striaght to spark #1, mark w/ a marker on the side so you know its #1, so to put it on #1 you need it facing a bit left then push it down then it will move to #1 position. After you are done with that don't tighting the 12mm bolts yet so you can start the truck up and ask someone to turn the distributor to the right or left until it run right then you can use a laser gun after that, so hope it help you out, just my 2 cents...

TNRabbit

Well, Kat; mine started up first twist of the key so I don't know what to tell you. My vote is on the distributor. You DID plug the wiring harness & VAFM connector back in, correct? I forgot to plug my VAFM in initially and it would start and idle but if you gave it gas it died. Took me about 2 minutes realize WTF I'd done!

Just make sure ALL your harnesses are plugged back in....

foot0069

Yup thats what I meant Bumpin. Sorry I didnt splain better Kat. Mine didnt wanna go either so I think i wound up givin it like half throttle for a while .When it finally did it was for a bit then quit then a little longer finally started to run. When it ran well enough to check the timing it was almost spot on. I know mines chain versus belt but look for the simple stuff first.

Jim

foot0069

Oops forgot when I finally got to pullin codes to see how the comp looked, got an igniter code. Hunh? the guy had just replaced that before I bought it looked brand new! Put the old one he left in the tool box and it started running sweet and would crank right up. I'm still using it. Something to try if you have one layin around.
Jim
Oh check all your grounds since you painted all the brackets and such did you need to take any paint off under any stay cons?

DaveInDenver

My experience with a 22R-E was it cranked and didn't catch on the first twist. Gave it a second, tried again and it caught after about 5 seconds of cranking. It ran rough for about 30 seconds, tons of smoke from the tailpipe and then it smoothed out. My timing and TPS were pretty far off, but it still ran well enough. Once it does start, be sure not to let it idle much at first, the engine needs oil pressure to keep it good oil flow for the first few minutes. My bet is ignition, either the distributor or something in the system. It may not run perfectly at first (I'm still tracking down little bugs), but these older EFI engines are pretty simple and robust.

justinking060310

Hey, just got it going - I pulled the dizzy and realigned it all again - this time i followed the FSM and put the notch on the gear with the notch on the dizzy to orient the rotor right.... Got it slid it and it fired right up, I have to go pull the codes now, and see why it idles at like 400

justinking060310

OK, I am having a code 21 and 27 --- Any links to a sheet with the breakdowns?

justinking060310

21 = o2 sensor

27 - not in FSM - im gonna recount for a fifth time

justinking060310

definitly a 27 - anyone know what that one is?

tombothetominator

Hmmm.. Post on pirate says: "Sub Oxygen Sensor Signal". Is it a cali-spec truck? Not sure if you have a 2nd o2 (my 91 doesnt) but that is what it sounds like from the posts i am reading.

justinking060310

yes, i do have the rear o2 sensor as well - its not installed either -- thanks for the link!


Now I am hunting for why I cant get the idle up.... Its idling at 250 rpm(with jumper in place) and the idle screw on the throttle body(assuming i have the right adjustment screw(should be the on the top left of the TB as you look from the front of the vehicle). It doesnt seem to have any effect....

Do I have to hook up all the air intake tubing and stuff to get it right?
If i advance the timing to 15 it will bring the idle up, however that doesnt seem like a solution.

I have it running with the AFM plugged in and a ratchet holding it wide open(it dies if not held wide open....

idea's ?!

Thanks for all of your help!

KAT

TNRabbit

Uh...Kat....WTF? You HAVE to have all the intake plumbing in place for it to run!! DOH!!!

It needs to be able to read the incoming air volume to decide on mixture, etc. You can't doing anything without it hooked up (set idle, etc.)

Blurr

yeah, hook up the intake tubes. i'm surprised it is even idling at all.

4x4CPOSEADOG

Hey Kat,

When you get done, come over here in Chesapeake and help me out with my timing belt installation. You in the Marine?