Bumpin' Yota

Actually yes on both and for added protection against abrasion from vibrating against other objects. Not only that, but should there ever be a toyota tech poking around under your hood, a loomed bit of 1/0 may go unnoticed. A great big huge blue rope wont.

justinking060310

Updates and Question

Headers from downey require a little fab, i think it came out well





QUESTION!!
Can someone tell me what number hose I need to connect to the PCV - I dont want to take the intake back off to redo it. I am going out to put the spark pplug wires on, so any quickness would be great. If the hose is not there or not numbered let me know. Thanks yall



Kat

JEBSR5

I don't think you have the hose there, it's very short. If you stand at passenger fender the hose would go from PCV to upper farther most left fitting. You can see the fitting in one of your pictures. Hose might be 4 or 5 inches. OEM hose is molded and very crooked, curvy.

Actually after looking at it again, yours looks to be opposite mine, so not sure if that is right location. Mine is on lower right next to cold start injector. Maybe someone else with your year can tell shortly.

justinking060310

Is this the correct funny shaped hose? (the one on the valve cover). Does the other end connect into the side of the upper intake?(this is what I get for losing my pictures)


Have you ever seen so much overkill?! thats all 0 gauge wire


Does this look correct for the a/c bracketry? those hoses by the a/c compressor or just holding the bracket up for the picture, they do not actually go there.


How do you know how tight it tight on the a/c belt tightener pulley?


Heres an overall shot as it sits right now... (please point out any discrepancies if you see them)




As far as my post earlier about the Downey headers, if you do it my way it is easy, if you try it their way(IE snapon) then it is a huge pain in the arse. I used the flex pipe that they supplied for the egr valve on my reed valve. I cut 1 1/2" off of it and then bent to shape and then tightened with crush sleeves in either end. Then all that is left for the reed valve is to tighten the nuts on either end crushing your crush rings. Then, I went to home depot and got a 3 foot piece of 1/2" outside diameter copper tubing from the plumbing aisle and some 5/8" crush rings from the next aisle over. Next step is to put the upper intake in place(bolted by the two nuts on the intake) with the egr valve fully installed and in place. Prior to this I took and cut the old fitting for the egr off of the stock egr pipe. I put the copper tube(uncut) in the header fitting(with crush sleeve in it) and then since it is nice and long still you have leverage to bend it to match the egr fitting. I then marked it with a sharpie about 1/16" shy of tight. Then you put your big nut on there and then you compression ring on and tightened both sides for final install. On a side note - I use the term crush ring and compression ring as the same item, I think they are technically called compression somethingorothers. But this turned out to be not too hard and I think that it looks nice and professional. Let me know if there are any questions, comments, or concerns.

Kat

Four Runner

*You forgot to spend the extra dough for the 3.4!!!










LMAO!! Hee-hee-hee, my bad.


Seriously though, keep it up, almost there!!

TNRabbit

This is your PCV hose. It connects on the outside passenger side of the plenum & curves underneath to connect to the PCV outlet.


So THAT's where that bracket goes!!! I've been trying to figure it out!

justinking060310

So the one sitting on the valve cover is the correct one?!

I thought the one you had was smaller, but yes, i was looking for it in my parts

and I know about the 3.4 but hey, this is what i got

just a crappy 3.0

Four Runner

Hey now, I never said that, I resemble that remark. ..as do most of us here.
It gets the job done, be stoked!! We're expecting a video of it running.

Side note, the Mrs's helped last week when I re-fixed the FIPG on the pulley outlet.
She probably wouldn't have done that in the past. Guess her reading this stuff, and catching back episodes of Xtreme 4x4 and watching Jessi's work is helping.

*Pretty soon she could end up wheeling like Molly...

Keep up the work and inspiration.

TNRabbit

Kat, your pair reed valve/EGR fabs look, well, FAB!

justinking060310

Heres where we are right now. Can anyone help me place the brackets on the intake plenum in their correct homes? I think that the bigger one goes somewhere on the driver side head, but i cant make sense of it and the little one look like a hold down down for the CC/Throttle Cable/Tranny Cable, but again I cant figure out where...







At this point I need to:
1. Install ATF lines to radiator
2. Install fan and shroud
3. Install Radiator
4. Radiator hoses
5. Install AFM and related things(I am going to do a mod later on)
6. Fill all fluids
7. make battery terminal connections

I still need to put all the exhaust in as well, should I do that before an initial startup so that I have o2 sensors?

When I put the dizzy in, I had it at TDC still from when the timing belt was in and I tested the two rotations. So, I put the dizzy in with the rotor pointed at Num 1 cylinder, straight at the plug for the dizzy, and when I put it in it went smooth as butter and turned just slightly to the right... Everything seem good there?

I wish that I would have took the time to paint all my accessories Red, but dah well

I also have my OME steering stab and the crossbrace to put in.

I am also still not clear on how tight to make the a/c tensioner pulley nut...

As fas as getting oil all over the motor before firing it up, I can disconnect the coil wire and roll the starter for a little while and that should get everything lubed up, correct? how long is a little while to roll the starter?

I need to get that little boot thing for the where the throttle cable is -- anyone have a name for that part?

I need to research my fluids, but is there any special instructions for initial startup(in concern to the oil)?

Thanks everyone,
Kat

TNRabbit

.......

justinking060310

Well, I put her in the "run" position to check for fuel leaks and BINGO ever one of my banjo fittings is leaking.

I used all new brass washers from the auto parts store - that what I get for shortcutting and not ordering them from toyota -- GRRRRRRRRR

So i will be waiting until they get ordered and come in probably the end of next week --

I rolled the starter for quite a while and oil pressure never moved
I verified the sender is connected.

I started working on the downey exhaust, thats not exactly plug and play - Not SNAFU's yet thou.

Kat

TNRabbit

.....

^VooDoo^

Not to throw a wrench in wrong and I didnt go through all pages again to see, But is that a new fan spindle bracket?

justinking060310

?? you talking about the pulley behind the fan clutch?

did i put it in wrong? possible i guess, i thought everything lined up

^VooDoo^

Install looks fine, Is it new?

justinking060310

nope, I sandblasted a lot of the parts or cleaned them up with brake cleaner

justinking060310

ok, i need help guys - I got my fuel leaks fixed with new washers.

I put the AFM on and am trying to start it - it will roll over and it is firing a little bit but not enough to start. I had to move the distribiter gear to the left one tooth so that it would be at 10* on the marks. I first had it so it was pointing at the dizzy electrical connector and that had my timing at 10* BTDC? - to the right of 0 on the marks.
Currently it is showing me 10* on the marks and it wants to go but then when you give it some throttle it backfires/pop a little bit from the throttle body...

where do i go next? - I pulled the #1 plug and it smells of fuel, i checked all the plug wires for connnectivity. so you have 1-3-5 on the passenger side and 2-4-6 on the driver side...

I also verified that I put the distibuter in at TDC by ensuring the piston was at the top of the cylinder(with a rubber tipped screwdriver in the spark plug hole), could i be 180 out? what is the best way to figure that out?

EDIT -- I know it was TDC of compression stroke now, because we took the spark plug out placed finger on hole and turned motor over and got blown off the hole. Then we looked at the rotor and it was still at #1 and timing was at 10 on the marks. I do not have the paper clip jumper in but i dont think that will keep me from starting....



Kat

Bumpin' Yota

to find out if you are 180* out, see if the valves on #1 cylinder are closed.

But if you were 180* out it wouldnt run at all. It sounds to me like the timing belt is off by a tooth. You have to be ultra anal about the marks with concern to the timing belt.

justinking060310

It has not run on its own yet, it backfires a lot with the more gas you give it...

it passed the 2 rotation test - twice and it was dead on both times...

Dumb question, without taking the valve covers off, how do i know that the valves are closed?