I usually have to clean the MAF directly after cleaning. Regardless of how much oil. It is usually only once. I would however recommend using a wrap if your going to be in a overly dusty enviroment. I really wish I had known about the MAF issue before buying. I probably would have kept the stock setup and gone with a better filter. They are actually pretty noisey at startup too.

 

I should mention also that I don't ever remember seeing anything that claims these kits "at least on my 3rd gen" are "COLD AIR "intake systems.

 

Anyone ever run a UNI Filter, I was thinking about going that route.

 

Does anybody have the part number for the Amsoil replacement for the K&N filter?I think UNI uses oiled filters too don't they?

 

I had one and loved it. I put mine on at the exact same time as a freeflow cat, header, and cat-back exhaust so I can't really tell you what it did alone, but all those things combined made my 22re feel a little peppier for sure. A lot of people don't like em, a lot of people do. If you are really worried about dirt getting through they make a prefilter for them as well, it just kind of slips over the cone like a condom.

 

I'll post my experiences with the K&N drop in.

My last truck, and '89 3.0, 297,000 miles, ran great, had the K&N in for like 150,000 miles or so. Truck failed ultimately due to theft... of the truck. I saved SOOOOO much money having a cleanable air filter I would never go back to Fram or similar.

New truck: Have had the K&N in it for about 10,000 miles. It runs great. It doesn't have enough miles on it to know how it will be in another 150,000 miles. I have cleaned it three times after wheeling, it was filthy, on the outside like it is supposed be, and has now paid for itself in regards to the paper filters I didn't have to buy.

I like them.

Frank

 

I should add I recently replaced my valve cover gaskets and during the process inspected the intake. It looks clean.

Frank

 

That is why they use intercoolers.





If you are afraid of water/dust getting into your intake, invest in a drycharger or precharger. They make them for a reason.

Also, I have had a K&N on my truck for about all of my 300,000 miles without a dry/precharger, with no problems whatsoever.

J

 

Why in the world would anyone use a K&N and then use a prefilter over it ?

That's just beyond silly.



Fred

 

One time, back in '86, this guy I knew was driving his then new Toyota pickup with a brand new K&N air filter. Needless to say, he was sitting at a stoplight and the whole thing blew up. Just a massive fireball, totaled two cars next to him, killed the passenger, and he was in the hospital for weeks. Mechanic told him the cause was the K&N air filter. So that's when all this K&N hating started.

True story...
I wouldn't worry about them.

 

If you live out here in the west where you have a lot of very fine dust, I would worry about them.
They let a ton more crap through that the OEM style filters and the "increased" airflow is basically nothing compared to the stock style OEM filters. Not on our engines.



Fred

 

I just ditched my K&N this last weekend. Previous owner put it in so I didn't feel too bad tossing it. I replaced it with a NAPA Gold air filter. After the replacement I got an increase of 2mpg on the last tank and no noticeable difference in power. Too early to say if the 2mpg increase was due to the filter though

Interesting filtration testing here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm

 

You could always just run the stock air filter in the stock air box and have no doubt about the quality of your filter or the filtration. No need to worry about dust or dirt getting into your engine, or about over oiling your filter and coating your sensors, or any of that crap. These stock filters are nice and dry too.

K & N's FIPK kit for the 3vze shows an improvement of 3 HORSEPOWER at 4400 RPM's on the Dyno which you will find on the K & N website. That's not much in my mind. When you factor in all the benefits of the stock system over the K & N FIPK as far as protection/filtration goes, I think it's a no brainer. I will admit though it would be interesting to see if K & N FIPK's make a much bigger difference when combined with other breathability type mods (e.g. headers, exhaust). But to do that you would need to do various dyno runs - one with just an FIPK, one with an FIPK and headers/exhaust. and then one with the stock air box/headers/exhaust, etc. to get a fair comparision to see.

A drop in apparently higher flowing drop in air filter won't do jack. And I stand by this. Anything you think you gain from a higher flowing air filter is just a placebo - read: It's in your head. It's called a FILTER for a reason. You might gain a 1/4 horsepower but on these engines it won't be much more then that if anything. The only benefit would be as pointed out if you like not having to pay for new filters all the time. But then again I like the feeling of not having doubts about the quality of my filter so I'll just stick with the stock air box and stock filters.

 

dang, that test this guy did is pretty impressive. this if proof to all you K&N haters (a.k.a. alot of people running amsoil filters) that K&N is not as bad as they say it is. and according to this test, K&N had the edge over the amsoil filter...

 

That's the old style Amsoil filter, they have a whole new filter medium now that doesn't use the old oil entrapment method anymore. It uses nanofiber technology: https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaa.aspx


I do agree with his conclusion though:

BTW, I'm using a stock OEM Toyota air filter and it flows well enough to make 10 lbs of boost.

 

Dang, did you not READ all that, showing that the increased air flow amounts to just shy of nothing that that the amount of additional crap that the K&N's let through was/is significant ???




Fred

 

Yup, you've got it 100% here...


Let's look at some numbers and other things.

- Dynos do not measure HP.
- You don't feel HP.
- 3 HP (more) at 4400 rpm = less than 3.6 ft/lbs of torque. That's absolutely nothing....
- How often is the vehicle at 4400 rpm ?
- I'ld bet that 3.6 ft/lbs of torque oat 4400 rpm is within the dynos range of error anyway.


No one's answered as to why they would use a pre-filter over a K&N.
Mmmmmmm.....

Doesn't make any sense at all, does it ?




Fred