kirkerik

Thanks all! I appreciate it. I guess these 22re's may be prone to head stress but it's encouraging to hear that when reasonably maintaned they are very reliable. Im glad to hear it.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

i am glad you came to your senses .

I was going to say how much do you need for it I will be there in the Morning.

It seems I run a home for unwanted Toyota 4x4 vehicles.

For what it is worth I torque my 22re Headbolts to 65 footpounds.

kirkerik

Alright, so i'll get the front end kit from enginebuilder and an OEM HG. Is there anything else other than the timing chain, cover, water pump, oil pump, seals to replace when i have it apart? For example, my front main seal leaks so i'd like to do that.

The oil pan gasket leaks too. The clincher there is i have the IF suspension and its a pain to get too. I'd like to know whats in the pan and while its off i could check out the lower end. Is it worth it to check the lower end or should i just trust it's ok??

I was thinking i could have some other parts ready to go back on after the teardown. Any suggestions? Where do you stop? Know what i mean? I'm thinking MPG and daily driver.

I'm also trying to get a hold of EB and ask 'em about there stuff. Does anyone know if the OS valve head is worth it? Does the low end torque improve mileage? I want to keep it stock but improve MPG, so i don't want to up the compression. 87 octane is preferred. pretty cool...

kirkerik

Thanks for the torque spec! It would be tuff to sell, but what's it worth to ya?

Got any mid eighties first gen PU i could ride while i fix up this one? Then that could be my other truck!

kirkerik

Enginebuilder phone is busy...

ksti

Well, I got to say in your case, your lucky it's a 22re.
If it was a 3vze you would really be licking the jar right now.
There a lot harder to work on.
You will have it running in no time.

kirkerik

Thanks ksti

Anyone know how to tell if my head is ok, since it might be aftermarket? Is it best to just replace it?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Like you said where do you stop .

If you have a good straight edge you can check that it is straight not warped .

clean it real good and look for cracks.

Your best bet is to have it checked at a local auto Machine shop but finding good ones can be interesting.

If your at the point of a new head which means the whole top end and front is all new .

It would be foolish at least to me not to do the rest.

as to your question none that don`t need a few days of work to be street legal.

96vettelt4

god its good to be an origional owner..driving it off lot in 1995..cant imagine being 21 st owner..i can only imagine the work one would have to do..

kirkerik

Alright so im poking around the engine bay, and i can not find or make sense where the coolant is going.

1) i thought the oil level was coming up, WRONG. Its the same. I checked on a slope and it gave a false reading. When i check in my usual parking spot, it's fine.

2) i pulled the plug to see if there was any water in the bottom of the oil pan. CLEAN.

3)when i check the rad level when cold, the coolant is usually but not always low, BUT the overflow tank is at full mark. It's NOT sucking in replacement coolant. I drive for maybe 50-80 miles and i have to refill a quart or less of coolant.

4)i see no evidence of oil in coolant.

5)see no evidence of coolant in oil, but i do see a little bit of moisture on under side of cap. The oil is clean otherwise.

6)i see nor do i smell leaking coolant anywhere

7) sometimes there is some pressure in the radiator when removing cap when stone cold.

Any help here is much appreciated. Where is the coolant going?

bone collector

truck overheating?? thermostat stuck closed?

stereoguy

I BEAT my 22re like I stole it on a regular basis! It is a 86 4runner and has 280000 miles on it and has never let me down. As the previous posts have said , if you take care of the head gasket issues and the timing chain these engines will go for a long time. This is my runner ,so you can imagine the stress on the engine

kirkerik

Nope, temp. is fine. Heat works too.

I checked the exhaust color when warmed up and there is no steam or white color.

I did just take the oil cap off when running and there was some significant blow by.

So what does that mean??

kirkerik

Glad to hear another success story with the 22re, stereoguy!!

Nice truck BTW! I used to have a cj7 built up kinda like your yota. Man that thing would go places you didnt want it to. He he. Im sure your yota does too!

kirkerik

Ok , im going to start another thread asking about these symptoms specifically.

kirkerik

Here is the new thread, just in case you're interested:https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52042928

Fordless

Change your radiator cap. If you haven't previously. Mine was causing somewhat similar problems...6.99 + tax all is well again.

kirkerik

I put my old one back on. I have had the cap that came with the rad. on and there is a stamp of 1.1 on it. It looks like a cheaply made one. The old one is stamped 0.9

When i go to town i can pick one up.

Fordless

The number is the BAR rating or the pressure which the cap much reach before venting pressure to the reservoir. Pick up a new 0.9 BAR cap and see if that helps some of your symptoms.

ROCKLAND TOYOTA

96 nissan is a bit different than the 27 year old toyota your crying about!! if you got no SERVICE history then whos to say what happened when and how???