Melrose 4r
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Connected the starter relay to a dedicated 12V 30A fused line per RAD4runner’s instructions and all i can say is WOW!
I was skeptical(doubting Thomas) - i already had rebuilt the solenoid and my truck has a full GND cable to the engine block. But it would often, give me cause for concern sounding like it might not start, always at the worst possible moment.
The parts to do the mod cost about $15:
30 A fuse holder-walmart
Assorted pack of fuses- walmart
3ft length of 12 AWG copper stranded wire - Home Depot.
crimpable end rings - Home Depot
shrink tubing - already had some
My only concern was that my soldering iron might not be up to the task. But it worked. The whole mod only took about 15 minutes.
Even my son noticed the difference just hearing it start! Thanks, RAD4runner for driving this topic home.
I was skeptical(doubting Thomas) - i already had rebuilt the solenoid and my truck has a full GND cable to the engine block. But it would often, give me cause for concern sounding like it might not start, always at the worst possible moment.
The parts to do the mod cost about $15:
30 A fuse holder-walmart
Assorted pack of fuses- walmart
3ft length of 12 AWG copper stranded wire - Home Depot.
crimpable end rings - Home Depot
shrink tubing - already had some
My only concern was that my soldering iron might not be up to the task. But it worked. The whole mod only took about 15 minutes.
Even my son noticed the difference just hearing it start! Thanks, RAD4runner for driving this topic home.
RAD4Runner
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LOL! Glad you finally did it.Originally Posted by Melrose 4r
...doubting Thomas...
Link to Concise Description of Issue and Solution.
Quote:
I was skeptical(doubting Thomas) - i already had rebuilt the solenoid and my truck has a full GND cable to the engine block. But it would often, give me cause for concern sounding like it might not start, always at the worst possible moment.
The parts to do the mod cost about $15:
30 A fuse holder-walmart
Assorted pack of fuses- walmart
3ft length of 12 AWG copper stranded wire - Home Depot.
crimpable end rings - Home Depot
shrink tubing - already had some
My only concern was that my soldering iron might not be up to the task. But it worked. The whole mod only took about 15 minutes.
Even my son noticed the difference just hearing it start! Thanks, RAD4runner for driving this topic home.
Originally Posted by Melrose 4r
Connected the starter relay to a dedicated 12V 30A fused line per RAD4runner’s instructions and all i can say is WOW!I was skeptical(doubting Thomas) - i already had rebuilt the solenoid and my truck has a full GND cable to the engine block. But it would often, give me cause for concern sounding like it might not start, always at the worst possible moment.
The parts to do the mod cost about $15:
30 A fuse holder-walmart
Assorted pack of fuses- walmart
3ft length of 12 AWG copper stranded wire - Home Depot.
crimpable end rings - Home Depot
shrink tubing - already had some
My only concern was that my soldering iron might not be up to the task. But it worked. The whole mod only took about 15 minutes.
Even my son noticed the difference just hearing it start! Thanks, RAD4runner for driving this topic home.
while you are at it, do the headlight relay installation, too. if you haven’t, it’s only a matter of when not if the hi-beams will stop shining.
Melrose 4r
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thanks, i wasn’t yet aware of that problem.Originally Posted by wallytoo
while you are at it, do the headlight relay installation, too. if you haven’t, it’s only a matter of when not if the hi-beams will stop shining.
Quote:
ray (rad4r) has several posts in his build thread on the installation, and the reason for doing it.Originally Posted by Melrose 4r
thanks, i wasn’t yet aware of that problem.
RAD4Runner
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I also added relay to my horn circuit so it doesn't sound like that little guy with big ears from Anaheim, CA with his balls caught in a trap - LOL!
No need to tear into steering column contact because not that contact carries low current.
HERE
No need to tear into steering column contact because not that contact carries low current.
HERE
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Cost cutting engineering at its finest.. Two dollar part removed from five hundred vehicles.. I just saved the company a million dollars, where is my bonus check?Originally Posted by wallytoo
while you are at it, do the headlight relay installation, too. if you haven’t, it’s only a matter of when not if the hi-beams will stop shining.
...
I snapped the stalk way before the contacts wore out

RAD4Runner
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Our 1987 Honda Prelude had same issue after several years. I filled the pitted area with soldering lead but it eventually gave way, too. Replaced with OEM.Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
Cost cutting engineering at its finest.. :
Quote:
My only concern was that my soldering iron might not be up to the task. But it worked. The whole mod only took about 15 minutes.
Always happy to give back to the community that helped me get started on right track with my truck that has since taken me to wild and pretty places.Originally Posted by Melrose 4r
...My only concern was that my soldering iron might not be up to the task. But it worked. The whole mod only took about 15 minutes.
Thanks to the parts list, Thomas!
AND Re: soldering iron, My has been so useful when doing thick wires away from plastics or electronics, AND welding cracks on kayaks. Home Depot has the $20 version.
coryc85
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Another vote for Ray's starter relay mod here. My truck had always done the click no start on those rare occasions, just enough to make it a pain but not really enough to root cause it. Fresh starter contacts didn't help, fresh battery didn't help. Then I did the starter relay mod and it never happened again. Been about 4 or 5 years. Good job Ray for figuring out the issue and informing people. Thanks for posting your results Thomas.
Melrose 4r
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Thanks for the link to the 80w iron, Ray. I’ll have to get one of those. I don’t need more than 45 watts often, but when i do, i do!
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Most welcome, Thomas. Here's Home Depot's less expensive one... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-8...0NUS/205542381Originally Posted by Melrose 4r
Thanks for the link to the 80w iron, Ray. I’ll have to get one of those. I don’t need more than 45 watts often, but when i do, i do!





