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95' Pickup 4x4 5spd 22re Stuttering Issue

Old 04-17-2019, 05:03 PM
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95' Pickup 4x4 5spd 22re Stuttering Issue

Hello Everyone,

This is my first post on Yotatech, and I'm hoping that I am able to receive some insight or ideas about what could be going wrong with my pickup.

Quick baseline before we go into depth with the issues.
1995 Toyota Pickup
214000 miles, 90k on Junkyard 22RE
4x4, 5 Speed
Single Cab, Short Bed


I purchased this truck January this year from an older lady that had the truck from her husband. She advised to me that the previous engine was blown, and they put in a 22RE from their local junkyard that had 90,000 miles on it. Have not verified compression, but truck started, ran and drove fantastic. Does not burn in the limited amount of miles that I have owned it. I purchased it and put 2000 trouble free miles on it. Late February I was coming home from work, and I hit a slight bump, and the entire truck died. It initially sounded like the fuel pump went because the truck began to spit and sputter, and I assumed the pump died. Pulled the truck over, attempted to start, nothing. Replaced the fuel pump, and determined that the truck is not getting any spark. Replaced every component of the ignition system, correctly set the timing, and still was not receiving any spark. A peculiar problem that came up was everytime the key was cycled to the "ON" position, the EFI fuse would blow every time. Tested this 3-4 times and can confirm the EFI fuse was blowing. Replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor and truck now has spark. Local mechanic was able to get the truck to run. Truck starts and idles well (550-600rpm), but whenever you put a load on the truck in 1st gear, the truck will begin to bog and act like there is a misfire. Truck is nearly undriveable, and took nearly 1 minute to get up to 45-50mph. Did a fuel pressure test and am consistently getting 45PSI of pressure at the testing port (Schroeder valve).

Below are a complete list of parts I have replaced in an attempt to remedy the situation.

- Spark Plugs (NGK)
- Plug Wires
-Distributor Cap/Rotor
-Distributor
-Fuel Pump
-Igniter Assemby (Ignition Control Module)
-Fuel Pump
-Mass Airflow Sensor

Does anybody have any ideas about what the problem could be? The last thing I want to do is send this truck to the junkyard. Feel free to reply on this thread, or if you wish to contact me directly, message me privately.

Thank you for reading; have a great day.
Chandler
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Old 04-18-2019, 12:27 PM
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Old 04-18-2019, 01:42 PM
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I'm not intending to beat you up over this, but this is why you should never "shotgun" vehicle repairs and just throw a ton of new parts at it. (they were new parts right? not hand-me downs?)
What exactly did the local mechanic do to get it running?
You have now had your fingers into so many components that it's hard to tell what may have caused the latest issue.
Check all of the basics first, make sure your timing is ABSOLUTELY correct and not influenced by a spun harmonic balancer. I know you said you "correctly set timing" but mis-adjusted timing can cause similar issues and it wouldn't be the first time someone said they did something right when they really didn't.
Verify your #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke and your distributor is pointing at the #1 plug wire terminal.
Verify your firing order is correct and in the correct rotation.
adjust your base timing according to the manual and/or the underhood sticker (jump the proper contacts on the proper connector, I don't remember which ones and I don't have a 22RE)
If this doesn't help you are going to have to retrace your steps to see what didn't get done right, is the VAF (you don't have a MAF) sensor adjusted correctly? how about the TPS?
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:10 AM
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Like AKWheeler ays above^^^
AND...
Originally Posted by chandlerschultz View Post
H... I hit a slight bump, and the entire truck died.
Those to not break from a bump on the road. Connections/wires do.

1) Take voltage measurements on PIn 1 of each injector. Jiggle wires while doing it.
2) Check the crimps on ECU to injector negative pin wires under the intake manifold. Check continuity of EACH pin1 of injector connector topin 10 of ECU. Then do same to pin 20. Jiggle wires while doing it. Replacing the engine could easily break those old, corroded, fragile crimps.
3) Use noid lights to see if the ground signal that ECU sends are getting to pin 1 of injectors.



Last edited by RAD4Runner; 04-19-2019 at 08:17 AM.
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