Jet Chips Power Programmer
04-27-2008, 09:54 AM
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Jet Chips Power Programmer
I've been doing a little serching on the web and Yotatech for upgrades to the 3VZE 3.Slow. and most people are talking headers back overhaul exhuast, and other obvious upgrades. But I was wondering if anyone has bought the Power Programmer from Jet Chips and if so how well has it worked out for them, or any other chip mod upgrades I'd like to hear how they worked out. Thanks 
04-28-2008, 07:56 AM
#3
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No one (that I know of) has yet to figure out a way to reprogram the original Toyota ECU programing. The source code is a closely guarded secret by TM. You might have better luck buying the recipe for Coke.
Now piggy back computers are out there, as well as stand alone ECUs. From what I've seen the open loop programing on the Toyota ECU is already pretty rich, unless your thinking you'd like it to be leaner to save MPG. It runs rich at WOT to protect the engine, at the expense of MPG.
Now piggy back computers are out there, as well as stand alone ECUs. From what I've seen the open loop programing on the Toyota ECU is already pretty rich, unless your thinking you'd like it to be leaner to save MPG. It runs rich at WOT to protect the engine, at the expense of MPG.
Last edited by mt_goat; 04-28-2008 at 08:04 AM.
04-28-2008, 08:06 AM
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The 3.0 is kinda hopeless when it comes to upgrades and you'll spend a lot of money to see maybe 10whp with exhaust,headers,intake,etc.
A 3.4 swap is cheaper in the long run if you want a real power gain.
A 3.4 swap is cheaper in the long run if you want a real power gain.
04-28-2008, 08:08 AM
#5
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04-28-2008, 08:41 AM
#6
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Actually after some though I know how the JET chip works.
It works through weight reduction. It reduces the overall weight of your wallet significantly thereby allowing your car/truck to go faster!
1. Save 10 large
2. spend 500 bux and put a 150 wetshot on the 3vze
3. Use 150 wet shot on 3vze.
4. Create hole in block with rod*
5. IF unable to create hole, change jetting for a 300 dry shot and repeat step 3.
6. Rip out engine/tranny and replace with a H/C/I LS1 and 4L65e.
7. Complete swap then go "WEEEEE!!!!" were ever you drive.
*Block and rod are interchangalbe with piston and headgasket, etc.
It works through weight reduction. It reduces the overall weight of your wallet significantly thereby allowing your car/truck to go faster!
1. Save 10 large
2. spend 500 bux and put a 150 wetshot on the 3vze
3. Use 150 wet shot on 3vze.
4. Create hole in block with rod*
5. IF unable to create hole, change jetting for a 300 dry shot and repeat step 3.
6. Rip out engine/tranny and replace with a H/C/I LS1 and 4L65e.
7. Complete swap then go "WEEEEE!!!!" were ever you drive.
*Block and rod are interchangalbe with piston and headgasket, etc.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 04-28-2008 at 08:42 AM.
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04-28-2008, 09:21 AM
#8
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Actually after some though I know how the JET chip works.
It works through weight reduction. It reduces the overall weight of your wallet significantly thereby allowing your car/truck to go faster!
1. Save 10 large
2. spend 500 bux and put a 150 wetshot on the 3vze
3. Use 150 wet shot on 3vze.
4. Create hole in block with rod*
5. IF unable to create hole, change jetting for a 300 dry shot and repeat step 3.
6. Rip out engine/tranny and replace with a H/C/I LS1 and 4L65e.
7. Complete swap then go "WEEEEE!!!!" were ever you drive.
*Block and rod are interchangalbe with piston and headgasket, etc.
It works through weight reduction. It reduces the overall weight of your wallet significantly thereby allowing your car/truck to go faster!
1. Save 10 large
2. spend 500 bux and put a 150 wetshot on the 3vze
3. Use 150 wet shot on 3vze.
4. Create hole in block with rod*
5. IF unable to create hole, change jetting for a 300 dry shot and repeat step 3.
6. Rip out engine/tranny and replace with a H/C/I LS1 and 4L65e.
7. Complete swap then go "WEEEEE!!!!" were ever you drive.
*Block and rod are interchangalbe with piston and headgasket, etc.
04-28-2008, 09:46 AM
#9
Contributing Member
As bad as everyone makes the 3.0 sound right now. the real answer is take damn good care of your motor and when their 3.4's get tired, your 3.0 will be nice and smooth. right now my 3.0 is better dyno tested better than a:
95 3.0 262,573miles
01 2.8 diesel 153,095miles
out of those 2 dynamometer tested along mine, i put out more whp(121) and more MPG. so for power i clean my K&N every 6 months. i have no cat or muffler. and i change oil and all other fluids as much as needed. my motor still sounds like it was made yesturday.
playig with an ECU is not a good idea to begin with for any vehicle. but if you want to gain real power, go to japan. find a 3.0 petrol specialist who knows how to crack the ECU...it is possible.
95 3.0 262,573miles
01 2.8 diesel 153,095miles
out of those 2 dynamometer tested along mine, i put out more whp(121) and more MPG. so for power i clean my K&N every 6 months. i have no cat or muffler. and i change oil and all other fluids as much as needed. my motor still sounds like it was made yesturday.
playig with an ECU is not a good idea to begin with for any vehicle. but if you want to gain real power, go to japan. find a 3.0 petrol specialist who knows how to crack the ECU...it is possible.
Last edited by Belize Off Road Team; 04-28-2008 at 11:06 AM.
04-28-2008, 11:00 AM
#10
Registered User
the Jet thing is worthless, if you really want to do a 'computer' do the Megasquirt. You'll be $1k into it when you get there, but will have full control over fuel and timing.
Having said that, $1k would put you half way there to a 3.4 (if you DIY) so I don't recommended doing anything to the 3VZE other than run it stock until it quits, then swap.
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