Intermitent Charge/Brake warning light
01-13-2014, 08:45 AM
#21
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I got a set of brushes for about $3.50, and they were about twice as long as the originals.... they should outlast the rest of the alternator. Takes about 10 min to pull the alt, then another 5 min to get the brush holder out, 10 min of drilling/soldering, and another 15 min to reinstall.... voila... done and cheap!
01-13-2014, 07:33 PM
#22
Don't Jump To Conclusion
Jumping to conclusion^^^. (See below.)
jlfenner, [edit: not O.P.], says he has a new/rebuilt alternator. What are the chances the rebuilt alternator has worn-out brushes?
"CRAMMING" means you're forcing it in there, but does not necessarily mean you fixed it. What exactly is wrong with the connector? Broken wire? Loose contacts? Corroded contacts? Did you fix it properly?
Got a volt-meter? Next to our senses, that is the best and most important troubleshooting tool for classics. Until you take voltage readings, you're only guessing.
Understand how the charging system works? See my sig to see where you should be testing voltages to narrow down what exactly is wrong before replacing everything at random. We have the forum so we can learn and stop guessing, and so we can stay away from stealers and incompetent mechanics who guess and charge us for their wrong guesses.
jlfenner, [edit: not O.P.], says he has a new/rebuilt alternator. What are the chances the rebuilt alternator has worn-out brushes?
Now my issue is that immediately after start up, the charge/brake light comes on and stays on until the engine warms up. Charge light goes off for a few seconds, comes on for a few seconds, then goes off and stays off for the rest of the day no matter how many times I shut off and restart engine. The next day I go through the same cycle again like freakin' Groundhog Day.
Understand how the charging system works? See my sig to see where you should be testing voltages to narrow down what exactly is wrong before replacing everything at random. We have the forum so we can learn and stop guessing, and so we can stay away from stealers and incompetent mechanics who guess and charge us for their wrong guesses.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-14-2014 at 10:24 AM.
01-14-2014, 09:03 AM
#23
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The issue I was having with mine is just about the same. It's an 84 however. Charge light intermittently going on and off. Fired off the parts canon early since in my previous experiences it had been the alternator. Well, got the new to me/rebuilt alternator installed and the problem persisted. Started checking the proper wires like I was instructed on this fine site and found that the wires going into the regulator were loosened somehow. If I'd cram them up into the regulator, the alternator would start charging. Bought a new regulator and the problem went away for a few weeks.
Now my issue is that immediately after start up, the charge/brake light comes on and stays on until the engine warms up. Charge light goes off for a few seconds, comes on for a few seconds, then goes off and stays off for the rest of the day no matter how many times I shut off and restart engine.
The next day I go through the same cycle again like freakin' Groundhog Day.
Have the day off today so I'm gonna look into it further.
Not sure if your regulator setup is the same as mine but I'd check the voltage on the wires going in and coming out to see if you are having the same issue.
Good luck.
Now my issue is that immediately after start up, the charge/brake light comes on and stays on until the engine warms up. Charge light goes off for a few seconds, comes on for a few seconds, then goes off and stays off for the rest of the day no matter how many times I shut off and restart engine.
The next day I go through the same cycle again like freakin' Groundhog Day.
Have the day off today so I'm gonna look into it further.
Not sure if your regulator setup is the same as mine but I'd check the voltage on the wires going in and coming out to see if you are having the same issue.
Good luck.
Most if not all of the posters in this thread who said they replaced the alternator and the problem was solved could have spent $0 cleaning connections and/or $5 to replace the brushes vs. about $130-160 for a remanufactured alternator. Not to mention a stock alternator with new brushes is almost always more reliable than a remanufactured alternator. Can't count the number of times I've witnessed or experienced DOA and short lived remans.
01-14-2014, 10:27 AM
#24
First of all, jlfenner isn't the OP, kanyonkritter is and he has not replaced the alternator.
And one should check first before replacing, unless one is absolutely sure that part is the real and root cause of the problem, or has tons of money to throw away.
Sounds like simple bad grounds and/or loose/corroded connections.
Most if not all of the posters in this thread who said they replaced the alternator and the problem was solved could have spent $0 cleaning connections and/or $5 to replace the brushes vs. about $130-160 for a remanufactured alternator. Not to mention a stock alternator with new brushes is almost always more reliable than a remanufactured alternator. Can't count the number of times I've witnessed or experienced DOA and short lived remans.
Most if not all of the posters in this thread who said they replaced the alternator and the problem was solved could have spent $0 cleaning connections and/or $5 to replace the brushes vs. about $130-160 for a remanufactured alternator. Not to mention a stock alternator with new brushes is almost always more reliable than a remanufactured alternator. Can't count the number of times I've witnessed or experienced DOA and short lived remans.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-15-2014 at 05:27 PM.
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