Intake Silence Removal Mod for $10.99!!!!
10-08-2007, 10:18 PM
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Intake Silence Removal Mod for $10.99!!!!
I got bored this weekend and made this:
I have noticed good power gains especially out of the hole via butt dyno. And here is how it's done. You will need:
>Napa Heater hose "T" 5/8 by 5/8 by 3/8 Cost $2.99
>3" x 8' (way too long) flex hose from home depot Cost $7.89
>A couple of 1-1/2" hose clamps
What you already have:
>Duct Tape
>Silicone
>Cutting device (I used a bread knife for the hoses lol)
First remove the vacuum lines connected to the vacuum resivours connected to the airbox. Then remove the vacuum resivour on top which it attatched onto the airbox with 2 10mm bolts. Remove the airbox lid. Be careful to remove the MAF sensor plug as well. At this point the airbox should look something like this:
Here is what you have removed so far:
Next you should remove the lower vacuum resivour pictured above which is also attatched to the airbox with I believe 2 10mm bolts. Next disconnect vacuum line between the intake hose and the passenger side valve cover. Remove the intake hose between the throttlebody and the airbox, and separate the two pieces by loosening the hose clamp that holds them together. Take the piece closest to the throttle body and cut it like so:
Hopefully yours will be a cleaner cut as you will not be using a bread knife lol. Next take you 3" flex hose, and the angled piece you just cut off and silicone them together like so:
Be sure to use an abundant amount of silicone to guarantee a good seal. Also pay attention to the angle at which you install the hose. No part of the angle should be placed inside the flex hose. Allow that to dry for a good 30 to 45 minutes. Next, install the rubber end of the hose you have just created to your throttle body and attatch the airbox lid. Make sure to re attach the MAF sensor plug. Decide where to cut the flex hose for a good fit. After cutting the flex hose to the proper length, take the remaining piece of you stock hose:
And cut it like so:
Again, a bread knife is not the ideal tool for this job. Use silicone and attatch it to the freshly cut (airbox) side of your flex hose. Be sure to leave the lip facing out. Allow this to dry for 30 to 45 minutes. While this is drying, take the vacuum lines that come from the intake manifold pictured at the bottom of this shot:
Using the 5/8" by 5/8" by 3/8" "T" from NAPA, connect one 5/8" end of the "T" to the larger vacuum line coming from the intake manifold. Cut about 2" off of the small vacuum line coming from the intake manifold (opitonal) and connect it to the 3/8" end of the "T". Connect the vacuum hose coming from the top of the airbox to the remaining 5/8" end of the "T". Secure all the fittings with hose clamps. The Finished product should turn out like so:
Next take the flex hose and, using lubricant on the airbox side, install it to the stock locations. The airbox side will be a very snug fit. After you have the bend that you like, you have a choice. You are totally finished with the project, but you realize tht you have a flexy hose for an intake. Which is fine because it works great, but looks retarded and shiny. So, you can do what I did. I wrapped the SOB in black duct tape as pictured above. Turns out this also helps reduce heat build up. Just for kicks I also spray painted it yellow. Good news is that there are no leaks, and a nice improvement in power. Also it make a wicked noise that is even audible to pedestrians when under load. An added bonus is that you do not have to make new taps for the vacuum lines. P.S. I would have gone with the other Intake Silencer Removal Mod but there is nobody in my town that could fab up the intake hose. So what do ya'll think??
Finished product again:
I have noticed good power gains especially out of the hole via butt dyno. And here is how it's done. You will need:
>Napa Heater hose "T" 5/8 by 5/8 by 3/8 Cost $2.99
>3" x 8' (way too long) flex hose from home depot Cost $7.89
>A couple of 1-1/2" hose clamps
What you already have:
>Duct Tape
>Silicone
>Cutting device (I used a bread knife for the hoses lol)
First remove the vacuum lines connected to the vacuum resivours connected to the airbox. Then remove the vacuum resivour on top which it attatched onto the airbox with 2 10mm bolts. Remove the airbox lid. Be careful to remove the MAF sensor plug as well. At this point the airbox should look something like this:
Here is what you have removed so far:
Next you should remove the lower vacuum resivour pictured above which is also attatched to the airbox with I believe 2 10mm bolts. Next disconnect vacuum line between the intake hose and the passenger side valve cover. Remove the intake hose between the throttlebody and the airbox, and separate the two pieces by loosening the hose clamp that holds them together. Take the piece closest to the throttle body and cut it like so:
Hopefully yours will be a cleaner cut as you will not be using a bread knife lol. Next take you 3" flex hose, and the angled piece you just cut off and silicone them together like so:
Be sure to use an abundant amount of silicone to guarantee a good seal. Also pay attention to the angle at which you install the hose. No part of the angle should be placed inside the flex hose. Allow that to dry for a good 30 to 45 minutes. Next, install the rubber end of the hose you have just created to your throttle body and attatch the airbox lid. Make sure to re attach the MAF sensor plug. Decide where to cut the flex hose for a good fit. After cutting the flex hose to the proper length, take the remaining piece of you stock hose:
And cut it like so:
Again, a bread knife is not the ideal tool for this job. Use silicone and attatch it to the freshly cut (airbox) side of your flex hose. Be sure to leave the lip facing out. Allow this to dry for 30 to 45 minutes. While this is drying, take the vacuum lines that come from the intake manifold pictured at the bottom of this shot:
Using the 5/8" by 5/8" by 3/8" "T" from NAPA, connect one 5/8" end of the "T" to the larger vacuum line coming from the intake manifold. Cut about 2" off of the small vacuum line coming from the intake manifold (opitonal) and connect it to the 3/8" end of the "T". Connect the vacuum hose coming from the top of the airbox to the remaining 5/8" end of the "T". Secure all the fittings with hose clamps. The Finished product should turn out like so:
Next take the flex hose and, using lubricant on the airbox side, install it to the stock locations. The airbox side will be a very snug fit. After you have the bend that you like, you have a choice. You are totally finished with the project, but you realize tht you have a flexy hose for an intake. Which is fine because it works great, but looks retarded and shiny. So, you can do what I did. I wrapped the SOB in black duct tape as pictured above. Turns out this also helps reduce heat build up. Just for kicks I also spray painted it yellow. Good news is that there are no leaks, and a nice improvement in power. Also it make a wicked noise that is even audible to pedestrians when under load. An added bonus is that you do not have to make new taps for the vacuum lines. P.S. I would have gone with the other Intake Silencer Removal Mod but there is nobody in my town that could fab up the intake hose. So what do ya'll think??
Finished product again:
10-08-2007, 10:36 PM
#2
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Good job. Kudos on the DIY adapt and overcome. I'm afraid that tubing isn't very durable, though. And the tape will come unglued under heat. But, it will last you a little while, anyway. (Sorry...ain't tryin' to be a stick in the mud. Just had to be honest.)
10-08-2007, 10:47 PM
#3
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yeah not trying to be a stickler but that looks horrible half-arsed job.
3" tube doesnt cost too much more and will perform and look better than your dryer tube.
3" tube doesnt cost too much more and will perform and look better than your dryer tube.
10-08-2007, 10:50 PM
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Yeah, I figured the tape would come unglued, but so far it's holding. I wrapped it about 3 times and secured both ends under the hose clamps so Maybe it will stick. Also the paint kinda seals it up LOL. You would be suprised how sturdy the tubing is after that tape. Redneck is the only way to mod! Also if I cared how it looked I would'nt have painted it bright @ss yellow lol. But it does work well, I was suprised.
Last edited by naadomail; 10-08-2007 at 10:53 PM.
10-08-2007, 11:17 PM
#5
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Hey!!! It's the freakin' "Yellow Hose of Texas"!!! Hahahahaha!
(F@@k 'em if they can't take a joke, I always say)
(F@@k 'em if they can't take a joke, I always say)
Last edited by thook; 10-09-2007 at 12:17 AM.
10-08-2007, 11:59 PM
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HA HA YELLOW HOSE!!!!!! I need to get a stincile and paint that on it next lol. See my signature LOL
Last edited by naadomail; 10-09-2007 at 12:03 AM.
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10-09-2007, 10:51 AM
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10-09-2007, 05:13 PM
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Yeah we Yota Tech guys are loyal ..........can I say that when I have given some links from their site , could that be considered an infraction........OMG.............I guess I will have to wait and see hehe.
10-09-2007, 06:38 PM
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Like I said, it cannot colapse under pressure. It it about 5 times stiffer than the stock lines. Sounds good, remarkably good lol. I'll have to post a sound bite. The sound alone is worth the mod. It just....roars. Never attempted it though, I may need help.
Last edited by naadomail; 10-09-2007 at 06:40 PM.
sweet! glad it works good
10-09-2007, 07:10 PM
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Sound Bites
Hmmmm, Lets see if this works. I took these from inside the vehicle. Hope you enjoy!!!!!!!!
Here it is with the windows down:
http://media.putfile.com/Intake-With-Windows-Down
And here with windows up:
http://media.putfile.com/Intake-With-Windows-Up
By the way I have stock exhaust, all of that is coming from under the hood.
Here it is with the windows down:
http://media.putfile.com/Intake-With-Windows-Down
And here with windows up:
http://media.putfile.com/Intake-With-Windows-Up
By the way I have stock exhaust, all of that is coming from under the hood.
Last edited by naadomail; 10-09-2007 at 07:12 PM.
