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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 02:33 PM
  #1  
bluemunkey1820's Avatar
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From: reno nv
intake off

i have my intake off of my 94 4runner 3.0 so i could replace the front timing belt idler sense its off is their any thing that could also be replaced well im in their

also is there a good place to get a vac line kits as a few broke and would like to replace all if i can

is the pulsation dampener a problem on the 3.0 i ask as im a rx7 guy also and the pulsation dampener fails on them and a engine fire is the very next thing
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 02:46 PM
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From: Orange, CA
if you have a few extra bucks, i'd replace the timing belt/water pump/thermostat while you are in there.

no vacuum line kits that i'm aware of, just take one of your existing lines to your local parts shop and get a few feet of identical hose.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 03:02 PM
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From: reno nv
Originally Posted by Blurr
if you have a few extra bucks, i'd replace the timing belt/water pump/thermostat while you are in there.

no vacuum line kits that i'm aware of, just take one of your existing lines to your local parts shop and get a few feet of identical hose.

thats what started this fun
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 03:24 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Sorry....

There's no reason to replace those things if they're still working fine just because "you're in there". Besides, you're not so far in that the water pump would be just as simple as that....and those things (a good one) aren't that cheap. The thermo, on the other hand, is. But, if it's working...

If you're getting good fuel pressure, and have no leaks and the dampener isn't cracked or deteriorated in any way, there's no reason to replace it. They aren't known to be a real "problem" like what you may be familiar with.

Now, if you have any coolant bypass lines running to the throttle body or to the back at the coolant sensor cluster that look aged, now would be a good time to replace those. Probably are if they've never been replaced before. If there's any connectors at said sensors that look brittle and/or broken, those would be good to replace. Let's see....you have the coolant temp sensor, the cold start injector time switch, the temp sending unit, one with little vac lines going to it (memory fails me at the moment on the name and purpose) and maybe one other....depends...has something to do with the trans. if you have an auto. Again, memory fails on what it's called. Nevertheless, if you felt inclined you could pull them, clean any scale, and maybe even test their status....if you have an ohm/volt meter and know how to use it. Might seem unneccessary, but it wouldn't hurt to be familiar with them as part of your motor. Word of caution, the one with the vac lines is easy to break if it's brittle. Be careful...maybe even just leave it alone if it looks okay....as in the vac lines look good. If you have to mess with and it does break, don't freak...there's a simple way to fix it as others have broken it before. Cross that bridge if you come to it.

What else....the PCV valve, if it's gummy. Of course, that could be just cleaned. But, it's very cheap. Valve cover gaskets, if they leak at all. Any drive belts....again, if they look aged.

Anyway, that's all I can think of at the moment. Unless, the valves haven't been checked/adjusted in a while.

Last edited by thook; Nov 26, 2007 at 03:26 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:43 PM
  #5  
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From: reno nv
Originally Posted by thook
Sorry....

There's no reason to replace those things if they're still working fine just because "you're in there". Besides, you're not so far in that the water pump would be just as simple as that....and those things (a good one) aren't that cheap. The thermo, on the other hand, is. But, if it's working...

If you're getting good fuel pressure, and have no leaks and the dampener isn't cracked or deteriorated in any way, there's no reason to replace it. They aren't known to be a real "problem" like what you may be familiar with.

Now, if you have any coolant bypass lines running to the throttle body or to the back at the coolant sensor cluster that look aged, now would be a good time to replace those. Probably are if they've never been replaced before. If there's any connectors at said sensors that look brittle and/or broken, those would be good to replace. Let's see....you have the coolant temp sensor, the cold start injector time switch, the temp sending unit, one with little vac lines going to it (memory fails me at the moment on the name and purpose) and maybe one other....depends...has something to do with the trans. if you have an auto. Again, memory fails on what it's called. Nevertheless, if you felt inclined you could pull them, clean any scale, and maybe even test their status....if you have an ohm/volt meter and know how to use it. Might seem unneccessary, but it wouldn't hurt to be familiar with them as part of your motor. Word of caution, the one with the vac lines is easy to break if it's brittle. Be careful...maybe even just leave it alone if it looks okay....as in the vac lines look good. If you have to mess with and it does break, don't freak...there's a simple way to fix it as others have broken it before. Cross that bridge if you come to it.

What else....the PCV valve, if it's gummy. Of course, that could be just cleaned. But, it's very cheap. Valve cover gaskets, if they leak at all. Any drive belts....again, if they look aged.

Anyway, that's all I can think of at the moment. Unless, the valves haven't been checked/adjusted in a while.
Thanks, good to know. I'm doing the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, both idlers, and I had to remove the intake to get to the top idler and it was not much fun to get off. Before I slapped it back on I wanted to ask if there were parts that should be looked at. Thanks once again.
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 07:22 AM
  #6  
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From: Richmond VA
For future reference, you don't need to pull the intake to do the no. 2 idler. Use a long 1/4 extension and a univeral socket.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...sy-pics-85169/
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