I beg to differ.

On my previous car (2003 Hyundai Tiburon w/2.7L V6) i made a plenum spacer similar to the one Fiddleplayer is making. Both Hyundai's 2.7 V6 and Toyotas 3.0 V6 are very similar engines.

When i dyno'd my Tiburon after the spacer install, i noticed an 8hp gain and a 2ft/lb trq gain. Not big numbers, but this power did help to smooth out the torque band in the upper RPMS not the lower RPM range like you were suggesting.

 

Hmmmm...
That must condritadict any information/results I have experienced from people who try modifying GM's TPI setups (somewhat similar in basics) to the intake setup on the toyota 3.0.
GM's TPI setups tend to flat line at or around 4500 rpms and the only way to improve upon that is to increase the size of the runners and also shorten total runner length by siamesing the runners up top.
Again, I'm not claiming to be an expert by any means and I don't mean to try and deny what you are saying about your results. I figured even though they are totally different motors and made in totally different countries, that possibly the same physics would still apply(?) in introducing the air to the internally combusted engine. Of course there are other factors that come into play such as cam/head design.
Just trying to offer my personal input. Sorry if it seems way off base.

Good luck to you guys on your little project. It is nice to see posts about people trying to increse performance since most posts relate more to trying to get the motor to even run correctly.

 

ill look later to double check room but why not replace the 2 studs with bolts if their not covered?

i have dyno access, just might take me a some time to get in

 

the studs could be replaced with longer studs everything should be able to be found at a good hardware store.

 

Maximum space at the front of my engine is 1 5/8" on my 1993 Toy 3.0l 5 speed, but this is on the intake runners and is just touching hood insulation. Top of EGR is higher than intake manifold see picture. So without body lift 1" would fit and maybe 1 1/4" would but it's going to be tight. I measured just beside the EGR, as you go back towards fire wall space increases.

EGR tube would have to be longer as well as side bracket.

Hans

 

the studs are there as "Guides"...if you replace them with bolts, then you just made placing the manifold on there that much harder...even HARDER with the spacers.

need to replace the studs with longer studs.

 

pertaining to the studs camo,

if i were to notch out the spacer to allow use of the origional stud on the bottom of the spacer, then i make it to where i can place another stud on top of the spacer, would that be easier to get a stod out of the manifold that is X amount of years old? who knows how well it will come out?

i just dont want to start breaking studs on top of the motor is all. LOL. i mean, if the stud will come out easy enough then that might be easier, but if not i can incorporate it into the design to just replace the stud with another on top of the spacer.

JR,
thanks for the clearance measurement! ill probably only go with a 1 inch design for now, unless someone with a BL would like to try a larger spacer.

 

Sorry, I misread that. $100 for three pulls sounds about right.

 

Fiddleplayer247

You had a fast 3.0l that you gave to your brother? Must be nice! How's it going bro? What was all done to it.

I have no clue what a dyno run would cost me, closet dyno is a two hour drive but it is top notch. Should bring my truck to them to improve computer software (Tilley's in Brooks Alberta).

What about a complete upper intake. I can measure runner length as I have a motor sitting in the snow, someone that has the heads off will have to measure lower intake to back of valve.

Person I bought the motor from was lied to about mileage, not a hope in hell that it had 97,000 km maybe 297,000 km apparently purchased in Nisku Alberta. It came with complete gasket kit and a printed manual. I basically bought it for the price of the gasket kit. Poor kid was shafted paid $1000.00 for a worn out motor plus shipping, then the truck got fire and burnt to the ground, hopefully he had insurance that covered it.


Below are two sites with intake design information. I should learn how to link it to the sites just lazy or to much on the go already. Hopefuuly this helps.

horsepowercalculators.net/intake-manifold-design

http:/www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showarticle.asp?articleid=471

 

I havent been on in a few days but it seems like a new stud might be a good idea since like you said its a decent possibility youd strip out the old studs.

And as far as my BL goes, Im not sure if it would be worth it to increase the size or not. If it would be easier for you just leave it the same size and then at least you can get 3 opinions on the same spacer.

I noticed my pass side valve cover leaking tonight so Im gonna have to tear off the intake fairly soon anyways so its pretty good timing

 

well folks,m i have the first spacer(1/2) made of plastic to test fitment. the spacers will consist of two pieces, of which the pattern is mirrored, so theres no way the spacer can get put on wrong. BTW, the studs ARE REMOVABLE. with that being said, i will be looking into getting studs to replace AT LEAST the two that already exist on the manifold. would it benefit to make all the connections studs instead of two studs and 6 bolts? opinions please!!

heres my idea for the "Intake Manifold Spacer Kit" that wil be advertised, let me know if im forgetting anything.



1(one) spacer, consisting of two halves(total of two pieces)

2(two) intake manifold gaskets(one for upper spacer, one for lower spacer)

2(two) lengthened studs to replace stock studs(option to replace ALL bolts with studs, customer option)



attached is a picture of the plastic prototype, the spacer will come to you a little under an inch( i can only get 1 inch aluminum stock, and to makse sure the stock is level and smooth it will be under an inch) but with the intake gaskets the total spacer length should amount to right at an inch.


i havent figured pricing yet as i havent been able to make it to the bolt and fastener place to get an estimate on the bolts, but as soon as that comes about i will let you know and post it within here after the first three go out for testing.


let me know again if there are any questions regarding this project.

 

Im still up for testing if you get a prototype made

 

the plastic was a tester before i went to working with aluminum and burning up funds.... so far it fits, i will be calling/ going to the bolt place to try and find a match to the the stud threadwise that is a inch longer, then that should be it as far as that goes. i will likely be cutting it out on a water jet machine at a neighboring school for the ease of use, since i caould simply run the machine around the profile and cut an inch thick piece of aluminum in one pass and it'd be done. pm me an address and ill get up with you for the trial.... are you guaranteeing you can find dyno time?

 

http://vapauto.com/spacers1.htm

I don't know if this will help much but this company makes spacers like your talking about for mustangs and I've heard they work well.

 

subscribed!

 

The plastic might be interesting in that it would insulate the plenum from the block and help stave off heat soak. Not sure what material yours is made of but phenolic intake manifold gaskets are a pretty common trick.

 

Fiddle - sent you a PM

 

the only thing i would have against plastic would be that the 3.0 motors are(in my case anyway- with the minor problems i have) prone to backfire... with that being said, i would be afraid that if the motor backfired, im not sure how violent the explosion would be in the intake. i would be afraid of the spacer blowing apart. i have an acrylic model that i used as a prototype, but the plastic seemed soft to me, and with the heat under the hood and being directly connected to the motor i am also afraid the heat would soften and weaken the plastic.

swim, got your pm, i am totally good with that also.

i bought my aluminum material earlier this week, so within the end of week i hope to at least have one or two spacers made.

stay tuned.

 

oh, and along with the material i got some round stock to make a shift knob for a buddy to put on his dune buggy, with an Alabama "A" on the top of it. this is what i have so far.

if anyone is interested in a shifter with any specific pattern on it, let me know via PM. i also have a shifter with a 6-speed pattern on it.

 

Sounds good man, keep in touch!