I think you should make it out of one piece with as much metal as you can leave on it and definitely include fins. Don't cut out each individual runner, leave it solid. With more mass more heat can be absorbed, and with more surface area more heat can be dissipated.
A possible advantage of a two piece design is that it may seal better, if for some reason the tolerances are off and the parts aren't straight.
T-6 aluminum is a must. This piece will be heat cycled repeatedly and it needs to hold up.

I also don't think you should make it too long. 3" tops, and even that may be too long. And try to make the runner walls at least as thick as the factory manifold's are.

Have you considered what kind of effect this will have on fuel injector pulse timing? (I'm assuming the injectors are in the manifold and will be moved if the runner length is altered, I'm not very familiar with this engine). I'm not sure that this will be a problem, though, since you aren't really moving them that far.

Polish the inside of your extender to a mirror finish. It flows better and fuel droplets won't stick to it.



On a final note, JUN Racing had a rubber intake manifold gasket for a B-Series Honda that was a decreased the diameter of the intake runners. The gasket had this shape )( where half of the "parentheses" was in the head and the other half was in the intake mani. The reducers were about 1 1/2" long. Anyway, it boosted midrange power by 5-8 horses (keep in mind that midrange on a motor that redlines at 8k is around 4-6k). Maybe you could make the inside of yours with a similar shape.

 

Sorry that post is formatted funny. I'm posting from my phone.

I'm not expecting much power from this, at least on a stock motor, but you never know. I think most of the gains will come from keeping the intake manifold cooler.

Oh yeah, good luck!

 

I still think that adding the spacer will lower peak torque based on intake runner length and diameter. Heat is an issue but I do not think that it is worth the hassle to add cooling fins. Better to go with plastics if you are trying to reduce heat or weight but backfiring can destroy plastic intake manifolds. Heavy T6 would be a safer choice as heat cycles would be more of a concern. Metal transfer heat so well, the increase height might allow additional cooling to occur.

Good Luck and hopefully it works out.

 

alright folks, its been a long while since i first posted here, and a long time since my last post as well, but i am very happy to see everyone still interested in this spacer project.... withough further adue, i am going to show you my latest morph of the spacer..... should be either this week or next that the first one will get cut from aluminum, so pending fitment tests and all, the spacer should be available within the end of the month...( i hope)

let me know if yall can see any way i can improve the design, as of right now the spacer will be two pieces, although with a little work, a one-piece design could be accomplished...

since the manifold is two mirrored halves, the spacer kit will consist of two of the same shaped spacers, looking very similar to the picture in this post.....
the thickness of the spacer is currently set at 1 inch, i do not know how much clearance the hood has to offer between the top of the motors and the hoods, so if anyone has that information, please let me know, that would be greatly appreciated. of course, as with a body lift, a larger spacer could be used if so desired.

again, if anyone has any ideas for improvements, let me know

 

Very nice! Looking forward to seeing these in production!

 

I dont have any idea on the theory of the whole thing but it sounds like it might be cool to try. Who do you have testing it for you at this point?

 

no one, except myself. i have access to a chassis dyno, even though at a hundred buck for three pulls, i think it'd be interesting to see how it did. id be willing to send a few free ones for trials to people that would be willing to try, maybe like the first three or something to ask about testing?

i think camo 31 1050 mentioned something about it, but im not sure or not.

 

$300! That seems like a lot for three pulls with no tuning. Although it's been about two years, I paid $150-200 to get my Civic tuned at Speed Innovations in Concord, NC. I don't know how far Waynesville is from there, but it might be worth a phone call or even driving a couple of hours. I don't have their number off hand, but you might find them on Google.

Beware though, their dyno is known as "The Dyno of Disappointment" because it reads really low, so without a baseline the numbers might be worthless. I guess you could compare torque curves with another chart, just ignore the numbers.

Does that $300 include monitoring your A/F ratio?

 

He means $100 to do 3 pulls not 1 pull for $100

And Fiddleplayer, i'll take a test spacer, i'm to be getting a 3.0 within the next few weeks and i have dyno access.

 

Iv got a fairly fresh 3.o in my truck and Id be willing to give it a shot. I *may* have dyno access but I cant count on it for sure

 

I am also interested in the spacer and might be able to dyno it even, but cant make any promises.

 

no Dyno here...except the one on my buttox lmao


i think one mod might not yield ALOT..(a 2" spacer seems like it would be better..or a 1.5" if you can fit them) but it might make a big difference whenever you start doing other mods.

like messing with the VAFM or going MAF.

i'm still down to be a tester if you want...i just had my intake manifold off not too long ago..so i should be able to re-use the gasket that i just put on there

 

If you need tester put me on the list. Will see how much space wi have.

Hans

 

Hey Camo, do you still want those Colt cam lift numbers?

 

No, but you could still post the specs for other members.

i'm going with a V8 or a diesel within a few years..lol

 

wow! i am loving all the interest in these spacers....

looks like i have found the first three... but i would love to have a confirmation on
A) max room under the hood
B) if you can get a dyno pull for sure or not(it would have to be on your own buck guys, sorry, i just cant afford that right now....)
and C) i would like to have a befor and after run if at all possible....

now i know it seems like im being picky, BUT....
im on the fence about selling a TRUE performance product. i am a honest kid tryin to help out the 3vz world, but at the same time im strapped for cash, LOL(who isnt, right?) so id like to make a little money. BUT i was raised right, so i want to be honest about this whole process, so i feel that dyno pulls are pretty improtant to this project to me.

THERE IS TWO SMALL COMPLICATIONS THAT I RAN INTO WITH THE SPACER WHEN I STARTED LOOKING CLOSER AT THE DONOR INTAKE MANIFOLD THAT I HAVE.

1) there are two studs on the lower intake manifold. as of right now, the design that i have only utilizes 6 of the 8 connection points that hold the manifold halves together..... i need input on whether the spacer design should utilize the use of the studs as a connection as well, or simply use the 6 other bolts that run straight through the spacer and simply sandwhich the spacer between the two halves, instead of bolting the spacer to both halves(if that makes sense). i can tweak the design(with minor work) to utilize the use of the stud, but thatll add time to getting the first spacer into preliminary testing.

2) the spacer is going to require the EXTENSION OF or the REMOVAL OF the egr valve... i can create a plate to block off the egr port to allow removal of the system(which will likely be the route that i take, since it is not functioning anyway), but if you want to extend your egr valve, this will have to be a personal endeavor for the time being....

one other thing that i got to thinking about is that my two halves(if i am not mistaken) did not come with the bolts that hold them together, so i cannot test whether the stock bolts have an extra inch of room in them for the new depth of the spacer. dont freak out jsut yet, i have a source here close to the house that makes custom bolts and nuts IIRC, so i could take one ans say i need X number of bolts just like this one, but an inch longer, and they should be able to get what i need.

guys if i am missing anything here, please let me know. i just cut out a profile of the spacer on the laser cutter at school to make sure the runners and bolt holes line up fairly well, so i might me able to get the first spacer milled out sometime next week, depending on if yall want the stud worked into the design of not.

let me know of any qusetions or ideas!

stay posted

 

use both of the studs as well....they're there for a reason.

 

Id definitely like to be a tester if your willing. If I can get onto a dyno at all it wont be for quite a while but I do have a fairly well calibrated butt dyno. And I have a 2" bodylift on my truck right now so Hood clearance wouldnt be a problem for me.

Id say utilize all the studs the factory did to avoid an intake leak if possible

 

pb, with your body lift, if you'd like, i could send a longer spacer, say 2 inches instead of 1, to see if you think that makes a bigger improvement or not... knwo what i mean?
i dont know many people that would be willing to put on a body lift for performance unless it entails a motor swap, but if someone already has the body lilft, they could utilize a larger spacer if it allows for a little more performance.

 

Seems to me (and this is just my uneducated opinion) that these motors lack performance more do to the lack of TB/runner size. I realize that adding length to the runners (so to speak) will increse some in bottom end torque, but at the same time will help choke it out on top end. That is a problem already present (IMO) in these 3.0 engines and the last thing I'd want to do is multiply it in any way considering the crazy gearing these trucks come with. My truck spends most of it's time above 3500 rpms due to it's 4.56 gear ratio. I'd like to buy a complete lower/upper intake setup some time and try hogging it out the whole way through. I'm thinking that would offer a little 'seat of the pants dyno' improvement.