I set them with it cold first, and .20 (intake) and .30 (exhaust), and wow, the level of noise completely left. It no longer sounds like a diesel, even though I really wish it was. I had bought a new head so some of the valves were really wacked out, and just with a prelim adjustment the motor idled perfect (where before it would have a slight miss), and power through the gears seemed more consistant and tight.

Then did it again after warming it up and presto, the truck is running better than ever.

Thanks for all of the help here guys, and 4Crawlers link on this made it super easy for a first time learner on valve adjusting.

 

I'm assuming you mean .02 and .03. Either way, say bye bye to your valves if you want to run those tolerances. You shouldn’t go any tighter than .006 on the intake and .010 on the exhaust.

 

I was describing inches on the feeler aspects which translates into the standard 8(intanke) and 12(exhaust) in MM specs. The truck is set to FSM specifications.

 

you mean you were doing mm. its .008in intake .012in exhaust, which is .2mm, and .3mm

 

right, I apologize for all of the confusion. MMA you're right. Just for clarification, if anyone clicks on the link 4crawler gave me a couple responses up, those are the exact specs I set it to.

I forgot a couple zeros in describing the gauge i used, that was my bad.

 

how long does this take like the whole procedure and on a another does rtv black set up if it like freeze cold outside like maine in winter

 

oil my friend

 

there is no oil in the combustion chamber, where all of the heat is at.

"On a solid valve, the majority of the cooling happens from transferring heat through the valve seat and only about a quarter of the cooling goes through the stem. In a sodium filled valve, approximately 40 percent of the cooling is through the stem so the valve can tolerate more heat." https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...res-explained/