Hello all,

I successfully kicked out my windshield after giving up on more gentle methods (piano wire sawed through the interior lining, the interior being the only part of my truck that is/was absolutely mint). I was getting ready to put in the new one when I had an uncharacteristic moment of insight, that being: how am I going to get all the moulding back in correctly? and, what is this 'dam' that the FSM keeps talking about?

The dam, what is it? As I near as I can guess, it is the tiny foam thing that ran around the 'pane' on the interior of the adhesive. Is that correct?? I tried looking for one online but cant find a description, or clear ordering process.

Now the moulding. I am going to replace the clips for the side moulding, and the entire upper piece which was so embedded into the adhesive that it had to be cut out, leaving some of the rubber behind. However, I don't really get how I'm supposed to reinstall the windshield at the right height (or amount of adhesive) so that the moulding goes on flush with the glass. Any one had experience with this?

Didn't realize how messed up the clips, upper moulding would be when I started this whole thing, or I would've left the old, blindingly cracked windshield in until I had figured this stuff out

Thanks for any help!

 

I had a professional company install my windshield so I would have the warranty and since I have never done one before. It took five tries, three windshields and two sets of trim to get it to not leak. The last tech really did seem to know what he was doing, as in have a complete set of everything in case something broke, took his time, cleaned and prepped, etc.
Not trying to scare you off from doing it yourself but just saying it is a pain in the a**.

 

I kinda have to agree with topless...this is something that not even I would try myself, thinking it best left to guys who know what they're doing. Can't imagine having it not work out...

 

Well, I may just have someone else do it. I got this truck with almost zero wrench/repair knowledge, and have learned a ton by simply doing it-slowly mind you. (which sucks during, but satisfies after). Meanwhile, I still don't know what a 'dam' is.

 

On our trucks, the top piece of trim is not reusable. You must replace it each time you do your window.

I really wouldve recomended that you pay the $200-300 to get a pro to do it for you.

My window guy can get the old window out in about 5 mins (the right tools help!) and the new one in in less than an hour.. All ready to go.

You need the proper goo, that needs to be heated up and you need to put primer on the parts where you want the goo to stick... Its not as simple as you think.

 

Hey, not knocking you for trying. Trust me, I did an engine swap and now I'm doing the bodywork. It's all a huge learning curve. That's why I bought it.

 

Yeah, I got the windshield for $40, and the adhesive for $10 [which is primerless (I also have the 3m stuff with primer)--I don't think anything's simple, perhaps least of all something separating my face from speeding debris] and thought 'might as well give it a shot and save the couple hundred for something else.' I helped out with one of these jobs before, but it took an easy universal gasket, which looks like pooh on a Toyota truck, to my mind.

The whole warranty safety net sounds pretty good right now. Or I could just punch myself in the face everytime water leaks through and dribbles along the dash! $200 bucks or face punching? Hmmm.

Does no one know what the dam is? The window guy I talked to yesterday said he didn't put anything but primer and adhesive in.

 

talked to a windsheild repair guy and he said that the top molding goes on with the glass and then you press in the clips for the side into the caulking then you nstall everything else. gots to do mine soon too. oh , he gave me 2 tubes of 3m stuff and a little tube/applicator of primer

 

Interesting. I wondered how the top piece could be fit in securely and i guess you just glue it up real nice. My real question is how you get the glass layed onto the adhesive so that it sites flush with the molding pieces. Seems just about impossible to put just the right amount on. I guess you could just put on a bit more than needed (FSM says you put on 3-10mm depending on much of the original adhesive is still on there) and compress it under the glass.

Anyway, good luck. I'm pretty sure I'm going with the 'pro' guy.