88yota_blackbeauty

Im installing a new complete head from Attarco.com, and by complete i mean valves, springs, cam, seats, etc. for $250 plus shipping, my question is how can i clean the BLOCK surface from debris and so on the best, i have a slight blue tint to the metal from the old blown gasket. Whats the best way to get this off and make a good mating surface for the new head. And after i do so im going to use carb cleaner and compressed air to clean the cyilinders and piston heads. and my last question is if i go with head studs do you just tighten the finger tight then install the head and tourqe the nuts to spec? Im sure ill have a few more questions for you all so PLEASE bear with me LOL...thanks in advance for help and advice!!!

Kaydon

Far as I know you can just use a gasket scraper and some carb cleaner and a few rags to clean the old gasket off and have a nice mating surface. Thats what I did.

Why are you doing with studs over bolts?

88yota_blackbeauty

im not commited to using the studs i have just heard that they are a little better for the tightining process, i have also heard the better side of bolts but im in the middle of researching the studs and comparing the pros and cons. also how did you get the debris out of the cylinders after cleaning the block air or just spray it off and wipe with rags? and leave the debris down in the cylinder?

91Toyota

Crank the engine over by HAND and once the piston comes to the top wipe it off with the rag.

You'll probably have crap inside of your holes (where the head bolts go too!)

And, its way harder to get the head aligned over the studs (your holding a 50lb head with both arms extended!) than it would be simply putting the bolts in. Each to their own I guess...

88yota_blackbeauty

i think that im going to go with the bolts,

toytech76

This is what I use. I use an angle die grinder with a small coarse twist wire wheel to clean off the block portion. I dont use any air tools on any aluminum part as it will create low spots. I then use a fine grit sanding stone with solvent to go over the block surface to assure all the debris is gone and there is a flat finish to it. After that I take an air nozzle and blow out the cylinders and head bolt holes. I take brake kleen on a rag and wipe down the surface and the inside cylinder walls. After that it should be clean and smooth.
I wouldnt use studs. Only OEM bolts. Dont forget to put a dab of gasket sealer on each side of the block surface where the chain cover meets the block

twitchee2

my friend just did a top end rebuild on his 79 cj5 (its a jeep but a good one) he used a razor blade to scrap the old one off. then brake cleaner and lighter fluid to get the rest off. the thing was literally squeaky clean clean. then get a dowel that you can tread in the bolt holes. makes it really easy to line the head up. one you drop it down put bolts in and take out the dowels and then everything is lined up. worked great and that freaking head off the I6 weighed at least 80lbs.

88yota_blackbeauty

thanks for all the imput... i just got done cleaning the block surface, i took brake clean and with a med grit sand disk on a die wheel i didnt hold it wide open with air, about a quarter open, took brake clean and rags wiped the surface down then once it was good to my satisfaction i then sprayed brake clean into the head bolt holes then with an air nossle blowd all the crap out of the threads then sprayed the cylinders and wiped them and blew them out and did that over and over again got about all of it out of there. im ready to put the head on just waiting for it to arrive now!!!

Red_Chili

I guess.

I had no trouble. Lines right up. A long way from 50lbs. No problems with threads in the block, just thread in the stud and you know you are good. Then grease and torque to 80 ft./lbs. instead of the stock 53 or so.

Be sure that your block deck is completely flat, within spec. Also make sure the surface has not been scratched from that sander!