Holy lee moley, CODE 52 everyone listen to this and see if it applies if you open your diagnostic box by your fuse box in the engine compartment check you manuals but e1 and t1 run a jumper wire than turn on your key to the on , not start but on and watch the wounders of toyota amase you the truck will give yo its own codes one after another then it waits and tells you again. Now the codes are acurate but like earlier one guy said it just gives you a place to look , remember the wire harness to any vehic can heat and crack( toyota owners buy toyotas to drive them hard because they are the best right. anyway got excited there. The harness between the connection and where the intake and the cylinder head is just behind the valve cover you can see the wire coming out on the driver side under the throtle body. some times they crack and expose enough wire to arc when they heat up or the have just plain old corroded enough that it is a poor siginal so the shotty siginal will create falure, then I think the other guy said it retarts the timming. what do ya think I honestly hope it save some one as many times as me sitting there holding the sterring wheel shaking it and just freaking. AHH a sigh of release. sorry about the sp mistakes

 

i just replaced both knock sensors in my 98 4runner. the one important thing you MUST REMEMBER with 3.0's are that when you replace the knock sensor you also MUST REPLACE the wire for the knock sensor. I've done quite a few v06 recalls or head rebuilds on these 3.0's, and after the first couple going completely back together it threw a check engine light on start up, so i had to tear it all back apart and replace the knock sensor and wire... just my 2 cents.......