Hi
Can't read the sticker under the hood (worn out) for exact specs. and Haynes book and the actual Toyo booklet refers to the sticker!
What are the specs on a 1987 4Runner, DLX, 22RE, EFI, AT, AC(disconnected),
Q: Ignition Timing specs?
Q: preferable idle RPM?
I think I recall the Timing was between 10-14 BTDC and the Idle was aroiund 1000...
Is this correct?
thanks

 

Just my 2 cents.
My idle is about 800 because that's where i like it.
the timing is set where I get snappy throttle response and it starts when you bump the starter. Some where around 8 to 10 degrees BTDC ?
I own a timing light but rarely use it.
Chain stretch, weak tensioner, cam gear wear, possible slippage of the outer ring on the harmonic dampner...
the book specs and timing light should be close but still might not be optimal, unless everything is new.
I'll probably get flamed for my response, but I've been wrenching on our 4runners for nearly 20 years and have had great success tuning by ear, or the old fashion way. But, it's not for everyone.

 

Idle speed, about 800.
Timing: 5° BTDC with the jumper in T-E1. With the jumper removed, about 12° BTDC.

That's what the sticker on mine specified, when I still had it. The truck, not the sticker . I've got a picture of the sticker around here someplace. I'll try to dig it up and post it.
Pat☺

 

thanks for the info!

 

 

1987 22RE EFI,
SEt Timing to 10 BTDC and vehicle can barely make a hill. Had timing at 8 BTDC prior. New cylinder head and gasket, including new valves, etc and it was timed at 8 BDTC. Ran pretty good all thru past winter and this spring.
Thought it was a bit sluggish lately and went to higher timing (10BTDC) with the diagnosis box gadget jumped properly, and wow, awful........
chugs and sounds like a bunch of chipmunks and marbles rolling around. once level grade it runs ok 65 MPH in overdrive, its a DLX model with the 4 speed AT./OD. But any grade, forget about it.
Changed the plugs, NGK 5EY, changed air cleaner filter (WIX)
Will swap old ignition components with OReilly Import brand wires, rotor and cap
Probably reset to 5 or 6 BTDC and hope that works better.
Motor has 71K on a completely re-manufactured engine from Pacific Engine (Greg Mahoney) ..perhaps the bottom of the engine is tired now, though it shouldn't be
thanks

 

With the motor at operating temp and idling... break the 12mm bolt that secures the dizzy. Then gently turn it a little bit both ways... it should slow down ( retarded) and speed up ( advanced)
find the spot in between the slow down and speed up and just barely turn it till it speeds back up and sounds like it's not in a bind and free... then tighten the 12mm
it should die instantly when you shut it off, and it should start with just a bump of the starter... if it turns over hard your timing is retarded. If, it kicks back when you bump the a starter the timing is off... You can play with it till you get maximum performance.
if your dizzy is all the way one way or the other, rather than somewhere near the middle of adjustment, you may be off one tooth.

 

I’d rec. setting base timing to 5 degrees with Terminals jumped. While you have everything setup I’d go ahead and make sure TPS is properly set, too. I’ve posted before how to set TPS with a timing light that is much quicker, and I feel more accurate, than the FSM method with a multi-meter.
not sure installing ignition components from OReillys or Autozone is a good move, unless their “import” is Denso. When trying to solve an issue like this I think installing Denso is the best, and safest, way to do process of elimination.

 

Well, AFTER all the troubleshooting, compression 175 psi on all, reset timing to 5BTDC, new wires, rotor, cap, plugs, and of course air filter, checking, listening, driving it was a dead cylinder not getting fuel! last thing on the list: defective fuel injector from Atlantaauto on Ebay refurbished set of 4 installed last fall Oct 2021 into a new cylinder head (blown head gasket and warped, came with new cam, valves, and I added everything else_new OP, h2o pump, chain , metal tensioner, etc. to do a decent job. And get jazzed by a lousy fuel injector that lasted 6 months. Oh well, thanks for all the advice though, felt like a it wasn't running well at all. It would start at idle because some fuel was getting in the cylinder, then it would dry up and run crappy on 3 cylinders down the road. . Because so much of the peripherals were older, thought it wise to upgrade with newer; would never would have guessed it was a injector, Lot of labor and angst due to sh**ty parts, seller doesn't warranty any labor. And get this, the injector is a complimentary one sent last fall due to one of the original four had a bad o-ring, leaked, engine caught fire momentarily (put out immediately and nothing damaged thankfully), had to use one removed from the old group when removing head. The complimentary one was to keep me from negative feedback posting then . It's being installed now. So out of 4 injectors, 2 were crap! Do not buy from this outfit advertised "4X Genuine Denso Fuel Injectors for Toyota 4Runner Pickup Celica 2.4l Camry" Thought a refurbished DENSO would be good choice.

 

Under normal circumstances, yes, a remanned Denso would be the best choice. Barring a NEW Denso, of course. Since I don't think they're manufacturing them any more, finding an actual new one is an unlikely event.
Best option, IMHO, is to read the forums, find a reputable company, and ship the ones you take out to them to be rebuilt. I've read of a few companies on here that are very reliable, and do quality work in a short time. Takes a week to 10 days to ship them there, get them remanned, and ship them back. I don't know how long it took you to do all the other work, but I don't really think that's an excessive time to wait to et you injectors back in a "like new" condition. From what I've read, some of the companies that do this kind of work really do return them in a new condition. A little research can have huge benefits.

Personally, I don't even look at EBay stuff. Anything they have, while it may be OK, I've seen a lot of horror stories about EBay "stuff", so now I just skip them entirely. Just me though.

Glad you got it figured out, finally, though
Have fun,
Pat☺

 

Hey, you found it! Nice work
and you keep us posted. You have no idea how much we appreciate that.

I think “refurbished” on injectors means they put a new screen in.

 

 

Plug for Hurst Injector Service, Fitchburg MA. He did a great job cleaning mine and reasonable pricing.
post office hates boxes that smell like fuel so be advised.
https://hurstinjectorservice.com/

 

Wanna hear something off the beaten path. After all the troubleshooting, tuneup, injector check, compression check, O2 sensor, suspected clogged CAT, etc. It was determined the CAM had three worn lobes. Purchased thru Partsgeek last fall(2021) and included with their new cylinder head installed to repair a blown head gasket, etc. See other post for all that drama. So the ignition timing was NOT the issue, the fuel injectors were not the issue; Shop owner texted me and ordered replacement. Asked he replace the rockers adjacent to the worn lobes as they are probably suspect? Wow...not sure if that year and model 4Runner would spit out a code from a computer check. Company is eating some of the cost, parts, etc., not sure on where the labor will be...

 

I had a cam wear badly that came with a new head. I know all the talk about breaking in, rpm’s, etc etc. and I still think the cam was soft.
But I started inspecting and comparing to my old oem stuff. The valve springs were noticeably stiffer with the new head. The lip on the valves in the new were much thicker, along with the washer plates the springs sit on. Retainers, too. So I had all these thicker parts diminishing the area that the valve spring got squeezed into, along with a spring that stiffer to begin with.
I pulled all the valves out and swapped in my old oem; valves, springs,washers,retainers,etc. Went to the salvage yard and got a used oem cam. No problems since. Wearing fine.

 

SAME! Purchased 4 new injectors from Ebay - Popped them in, and the car would only run if I unplugged two of them. Plug in a third, and it died.
Turns out that the injectors were throwing 2.6 ohms, when the original are 1.6 - so the ECU hated that. Got a $12 "rebuild" kit, new screens and rubber, and the old ones are now perfect. UG.

 

Wooho well done
and thank you for posting how you fixed your problem!!!

 

well just when you thought it finally was fixed, it wasn't. The above narrative, going from suspected bad fuel injector, to actually, three worn cam lobes, said to not been shimmed at the factory (Partsgeek distributor).
So a new, different camshaft with rockers was re-installed on the cylinder head. After 1185 miles same thing is happening. Mechanic will tear down the top, ordered several shims in different gauges and will either shim this camshaft
or replace camshaft with another new one, and ensure it is shimmed properly. Not sure what the heck this is all about; thought these things came, all assembled at the shop. The 1185 miles received before it failed to run properly were
fine. Ran good. No noises, no oil consumption, suspicious fuel use. Set to 5 BTDC and was perfect until it wasn't.
Q. I asked if the top of the cylinder head where the camshaft is attached and fastened, maybe that area wore some with a wobbly camshaft and the head is now ruined? He didn't think so. I quit driving immediately when the engine starting
dogging under a load (up a grade, etc.).....anybody hear of shimming a camshaft into specs? thanks
see what happens

 

I seriously recommend going to a wrecking yard and getting a used oem vs a new aftermarket. I think the new aftermarket ones are “soft” and will never perform as expected.
I’ve seen all the break-in recommendations for these new 22R# cams. Especially DNJ. I assure you, Toyota never had us do that with their engine parts.

refresh my memory, is the head assembly a replacement that came with valves and cam?

 

Regarding camshaft: advised to get one out of boneyard original motor OEM , made of better steel, new ones supposedly soft and crappy... But if not available

what new brand is recommended? And that would include new springs, rockers, etc. and under $400 for the entire set.
This isn't a new block, its got 70K on it as a complete reman crate engine from 2014 installed. It blew head gasket 2021 @ 66K. head warped and chose a head, with cam, rockers from Partsgeek, lasted 10 months of the 1 YR warranty
Replaced the camshaft and rockers in that head. no good. worn camshaft on 3 lobes...
gonna try shimming, that camshaft, but thought with advisory below, maybe acquire a good junkyard original cam/rocker assembly out of a old 22RE EFI or get another set up: camshaft, rockers, springs, new
but what is decent brand?
Is LC Engineering a good brand.? What about Melling?
appreciate any advice; thanks