My 2nd gen 4runner has IFS. after putting my lockers in i want a lift but they say i shouldnt. they say that IFS works best with no lift! what can i can do for a lift I have 33" 12.50" so i really need a lift! if its not the best idea... what is? coilover conversion?????


Thxs in advance!

 

"They"?

I'd do a balljoint spacer lift and pound the pinch weld if you really want to run a 12.5.

Otherwise, keep it low and run a 33x10.5.

Lots of threads in this forum to give you ideas on lifts for both the front and rear.

 

They meaning the forums! whats the pinch weld? where is it?

 

It dont matter man just put a lift on it. it dont hurt anything and if anything my lift gives me more travel and such. The only thing i wouldnt suggest doing is going with any bigger tire than the 33 12.5, after that it starts to wear and tear on the IFS system. But yeah i would recomend a lift. Mix of BJ spacer and lift kit.

 

Sweet what do u have on yours??

 

First, a mild suspension lift won't do much for truly increasing your ability to run bigger tires - the bumpstops are still in the same place!

I would recommend a body lift. 1" or 2" would provide a lot more room for the tires without altering the steering geometry and creating problems.

The other option would be to beat/cut everything that's in the way until, well, it's not anymore.

As AxleIke said, going to a 33x10.50 solves this problem too.

 

I have just a rough country 4.5in lift (recently found out.) and it seems to do fine. The only thing i would not do is mess with the torsion bar cause that stifins up the front end alot. I am planning to get to atleast a 6in lift by getting 2in bj spacers and lift shackles in the back. But my system is rugged dont get me wrong but great offroad/onroad mix.

 

i'd listen to TC first and foremost.

He's done a lot in an IFS I haven't done in my heavily modified SFA

 

nice! sweet set-up!

 

blue yota, a bracket lift alone won't increase travel at all..
All you're doing is moving the suspension lower by 4 inches lol.

 

Or you could cut & pound @ stock height and stuff 35's

 

An IFS lift will alter suspension geometries and adversely affect ride comfort. As others have mentioned, a more reasonable option would be to run a 33x10.50 tire, which should fit with pinchweld hammering or a body lift.

I installed a 2" body lift in order to fit 33x10.50's without having to make any other adjustments or modifications. In addition, the body lift allowed me to place my sliders higher and get a Budbuilt with a 1" drivetrain lift.

I'll be the first to admit that 33x12.50 look better than 10.50, but to me, it wasn't worth the extra work and decreased MPG simply for the sake of aesthetics.

 

Or you could put a lift kit in it and you do not have to cut the fenders out:

 

That is incorrect. Bracket lifts do increase travel. It is basically a spacer type of a lift but when they made these, they incorporated taller overall spindle height compared to the drop of the lower control arm brackets. So if the lower control arm bracket was dropped 4" down, the spindle spacer is roughly an 1" taller that 4"(estimating).

James

 

whoa whoa whoa..
i was under the assumption that your suspension geometry stayed the same, just got moved down 4 inches..

 

It does stay basically the same. The best way to describe it is it acts like a BJ spacer.

 

Won't BJ Spacers increase your travel? I was under that assumption, I have yet to install them soon on the list.

 

Yes they do but not by much.

James

 

That's not quite true. The flex gain is significant relative the the stock flex. Measure spacers, then install the spacers, then relax the t bars so that the height is that same as stock. Flattens out the angle of the A-arms so that they can exert the most force on the t bars.

This is the best flexing, most durable method of adding BJ spacers. If it were my truck, I'd get out my hammer, a grinder and some undercoating material and just smack away until the tires fit..

 

agreed