RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I was mystified by a vibration in the truck on my last trip from Chattanooga to Atlanta. After poking around it was discovered that the passenger side hub was locked, doh! Not that that would usually be a problem, but since it's got a Detroit tru-trac it was causing alot of friction and vibration.

So, I looked around to see if the 65mph, 100 mile trip had ripped the CV boots (nope!) but I think it blew the seal between the diff carrier and the stubby flange that bolts to the CV.

I know that it will require dropping the third member to change that seal, but has anyone done it? The FSM seems a little vague, and I can't tell if I will need a press or anything like that.

thook

This seal?

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...21replaces.pdf

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the side gear oil seal. But on the passenger side, with the stubby flange.

thook

Odd...the FSM doesn't cover seal replacement on that side it seems. Maybe that the procedure is the same for both sides. I'll guess I'll be waiting to find out myself. Anyone?

drew303

The seals are the same and require the same procedure.

haven't done one but just tore one out recently. You can't use a press to do it. The dif would be to awkward to fit on a press. It's thin metal with a rubber seal in the middle anyways

The hard part is front differential tube off. I used a pry bar to push it off as opposed to that slide hammer.

Not sure how you get the seal out tho ..hmm

I wasnt replacing anything just tearing a ifs dif apart. If i were to do that seal tho i would tear the dif out hammer it out from the inside then use a big socket or something to drive a new one in.

my 2 pennies

MudHippy

I have replaced the passenger side seal both ways, on the bench and on the truck. I'm familiar with how to remove my cv shafts quickly now, so now I do it while on the truck , saves time. You can pry the seal out with a prybar/large screwdriver. Don't worry about messin' the seal up, BUT be carefull not to damage/scratch the sealing surface on the axle housing or it may not seal right again (w/o some rtv maybe). When you go to put the new one in be SURE not to seat it too deeply, it will go in as far as falling into the axle housing (not fun!). Just get it flush, or slightly sunk in no more than say 1/16".

thook

A slide hammer will get the seal out. Or just cut it out. And a socket or pipe will put it in. The SST looks to be just like that.

After looking over the FSM real good, apparently you right about procedure. On other repairs also, it seems they omit laying out a procedure for both sides if it's only to be duplicated.

thook

Ooops....ya beat me to it, Mudhippy. haha!

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

I found my old 4.10 diff out in the backyard. All it takes is a deadblow hammer and really not too much force to pop the shafts out. Then yeah, a seal puller or a screwdriver will do it.

Maybe this summer when I do all the seals in my IFS diff I'll make a detailed writeup!

thook

Sounds good!

86Original

I've replaced mine twice. The passenger side just takes popping the stub shaft out, large screw driver to get the seal out, then make sure that you get the new one in flush. If you get any wrinkles in the exterior frame of the seal, you'll have to get a new one.

BTW, tried the aftermarket (Checker/PartsAmerica) seal. Replaced them with Toyota seals. I think the Toyota ones are worth it.

leebee

im doing mine now with the help of a mech friend. the seals can be pried out as mentioned, pass side much easier than drivers side.

there is a bearing in the tube that should be replaced if its not completely quiet. you have it that far apart, might as well replace it. you will need a press for the d/s.

lee