Idle issues and cam plugs
#1
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Idle issues and cam plugs
Idle issue: When the truck is fully hot and I let out the clutch, say coming up to a stop, the idle sometimes goes to ~475-500 rpms for about 5 seconds and then geos back up to normal. The engine is running rough during that 5 seconds. It does not always happen, though. Throttle body has been cleaned and it now has a new TPS. I've looked for cracked vacuum lines and can't see any. Any ideas?
Cam plugs: I also found out that the rear cam plugs (only ones?) on the driver's side are leaking. I'm guessing the head has to come off to get at them due to tight quarters back there? True?
Thanks for the help!
Cam plugs: I also found out that the rear cam plugs (only ones?) on the driver's side are leaking. I'm guessing the head has to come off to get at them due to tight quarters back there? True?
Thanks for the help!
#2
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Cannot help on the idle issue. For the cam plugs the heads do not need to come off.
You will need to remove the upper intake though. (should use a new upper to lower gasket when reinstalling)
Once the intake is off then remove the valve covers. (Replace these gaskets also as they become hard over the years and lose their sealing ability)
Now to get at the cam plugs there is a plate(camshaft housing rear plate) with 2 bolts on the back of each head, these need to come out and the plates removed.
Remove the #5 cam bearing caps on each head. Pull out the old cam plugs, clean everything good and put your new plugs in place.
Look at the bottom of the cam bearing caps and you will see some grooves, probably filled with FIPG, clean them out and apply a small amout of FIPG in the clean grooves and reinstall. Do not over torque the cam bearing cap bolts as they have been known to strip easily.
If only one is an issue it would still be better to go ahead and due both as the other will probably have issues down the road.
Some reading material for you
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...68cylinder.pdf
You will need to remove the upper intake though. (should use a new upper to lower gasket when reinstalling)
Once the intake is off then remove the valve covers. (Replace these gaskets also as they become hard over the years and lose their sealing ability)
Now to get at the cam plugs there is a plate(camshaft housing rear plate) with 2 bolts on the back of each head, these need to come out and the plates removed.
Remove the #5 cam bearing caps on each head. Pull out the old cam plugs, clean everything good and put your new plugs in place.
Look at the bottom of the cam bearing caps and you will see some grooves, probably filled with FIPG, clean them out and apply a small amout of FIPG in the clean grooves and reinstall. Do not over torque the cam bearing cap bolts as they have been known to strip easily.
If only one is an issue it would still be better to go ahead and due both as the other will probably have issues down the road.
Some reading material for you
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...68cylinder.pdf
Last edited by Andy A; 12-19-2010 at 09:33 PM.
#4
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My first guess for the idle issue would be a sticking EGR valve. It opens while driving, then sticks for a few seconds when the throttle is released before it closes.
Maybe a bad or out of adjustment dashpot could cause something like that?
Maybe a bad or out of adjustment dashpot could cause something like that?
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