Checked my 94 22re and wire colors do no match with yours. The Temp. sensor you show is a Yellow/Green wire on mine. The other 2 wires look like possibly the A/C VSV. My wires are Black/Red and Solid Blue.
I have schematics on a 89 22re and the wire colors you show do not match.
Hope this helps.

Also checked my 89 P/U and it shows ayellow/green to the temp. sensor. Cannot find the other 2.

 

Of course not

I'm going to email myself.

At least there is a better than 50% chance that I will get it at work.

 

Thanks,



Sounds good TargetNut

 

I was just wondering about those comp readings. Is the engine a fresh rebuild. Because it may be that your valve timming is off. It only has to be off a little bit and your comp will drop and of course it wont idle very good. I'm not saying thats the problem but its possible. If the engine is in used condition and your comp readings rise when you add oil into the combustion chamber then your rings are not sealing properly.
Also I own a 94' P.U 22RE I will look at my truck and check on those cut wires and let you know what i find

 

Looks like the yellow black wire should be for the oil pressure sender. If it has an oil pressure light then you should be able to check and find that the wire has battery voltage on it and if you ground it the oil pressure light should come on. If it has a guage then use a test light and connect to the wire. it should glow slightly and the guage should move to full scale. The oil pressure switch/sender is located on the block near the oil filter.

Now the blue/white wire and brown black wire are supposed to be to the EGR temp sensor. They use this sensor to tell whether or not the EGR is operating. this sensor should be located near the firewall on the EGR valve or plumbing. If this is disconnected I would epect to see a code 71

 

The oil pressure sender already has a plug on it and it was working. im maybe it was a wrong plug, but oh well, now I cant get it to stay running, it will start on carb cleaner, and will run on it, and if we have the return line pinched off it will run awesome. so does anyone know anyother answers to my delema before i take it to a dealer?

Thanks

 

You have low fuel psi. When you pinch off your return line you are almost doubling your fuel pumps psi. You could have a weak fuel pump or a restriction some where (lines, fuel filter...) 9 times out of 10 it's the electric fuel pump but you should check for restrictions first. At this point you need a fuel psi gauge.

Also because you have some wiring problems it would be a very good idea to double check any and all wiring related to the fuel control sytem
(cold start vave, c.t.s. a.f.m. t.p.s. e.c.m.)

I Hope this helps.

 

Low fuel pressure might be the problem, but any lean condition would benefit from an increase in fuel pressure caused by pinching off the return line. And if the fuel pump were the culprit then it is unlikely that pinching off the return line would even increase the fuel pressure.

First check for air leaks, especially in the intake tract between the air flow sensor and the throttle.

Then you should check the fuel pressure. if it is low then you'll need to find out why. If you can get it up to spec by pinching off the return line then look at the pressure regulator first. If the pressure won't go over 60psi or so with the return line pinched off then look at the fuel pump or circuit. Keep in mind that a weak fuel pump could be so due to a resistance issue in the electrical circuit causing an excessive voltage drop to the pump.

Then test the coolant temp sensor. the best way to do this is to check the voltage a the THW terminal at the ECM. Back-probe the connector with a small diameter probe. You should have 2-3V there when cold (temperature dependent) and as the engine warms up it should drop to around 0.5V when fully warmed up If that is OK then you'll want to check the airflow sensor.

If all that is OK then you'll want to check that O2 sensor operation

These are the things that have the biggest effect on fuel mixture and the most likely to cause a drivability issue as bad as you describe.

Having a bunch of hacked up wires like you have found can be a good indication that there are other "gremlins" lurking. I'd be suprised to find that your problem is not electrical in nature.

 

You may also want to check your throttle bore if nobody else has mentioned it. They can get gummed up with carbon and oil from crank case. Take your intake piping off and look at your throttle bore, if it is black and dirty looking some carb cleaner and a rag will fix ya right up, clean it off and give it a shot. A gummed up throttle bore will definately make it idle poorly. Be careful not to spray too much into your intake if you clean it and just be gentle starting it, it probably wont want to start at first from the excess carb cleaner but will eventually. Thats my 2 cents.

 

I just had a similiar issue:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/22re-timing-idle-issue-104627/

Rob

 

I think we can all agree that the wiring has to be a large part of the problem. Now I'm kind of new to this site and I don't know anybody here. So to get an idea of whats going on with your truck I would like to know a few things about it.

Did these problems just start.
Was there some recent work done & then the problems started
The cut wires are they because of recent work
Has the truck been out of service for a while
????

 

we fixed some wiring, now it will start no problem it just wont run with out revving it up.... it will bog down and then die. ill take a look at that thanks.

 

truck has sat for a good 7 months, in the garage, it has a new engine in it, we swapped over the engine, but kept the comp and wiring harness, the two connectors on the front were different, so i spliced them using butt connectors, which didnt work so we just spliced them and now it will start just not stay running unless im giving it gas. it was timed at a higher than average idle.

 

i have 8 Check engine codes.... Im thinking bad CPU? and mass airflow sensor.

 

Some or most of those codes may have been set when you were trying to run the truck with all the wiring problems. Plus if you were disconecting any senser plugs while running like the tps or cts that will set codes. The codes will be stored in the ecm memory so you need to erase the old codes 1st. then run the truck and see what codes are set now. I think Toyota says to remove the ecm fuse for x amount of time but I've always just disconected the neg battery cable for 60 sec.

 

Rule out your EGR this way. Disconnect at plenum, will require the unbolting bolts for EGR mount, pull the unit out of plenum and cork hole. Then try starting. If better, your done. You've just by-passed your EGR , thus proving it's malfunction. This is symptomatic of EGR failure, sorry, forgot.

 

cool, i will pull the neg cable and efi fuse and let the codes reset, i hope its not true about all 8 lol if that doesnt help ill disengage the egr.

THANKS

keep the ideas coming.

 

Before removing the EGR valve first unplug the vacuum hose that goes to it. Along with your hacked up wiring someone may have mis-routed the vacuum hoses and ended up with manifold vacuum running directly to the EGR valve causing it to stay open at idle which would result in stalling.

 

do you have a vaccum hose diagram for an 89 4runner? 22re 4wd, 5spd. federal model?

THanks ill try that too.

 

you should have a diagram under your hood