Identifying 3vz Connector
#1
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Identifying 3vz Connector
Can anyone tell me what this connects or was connected to? It is a black connector near the injectors and throttle body on a 95 3.0. Any help is appreciated.
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It's below the TB; the connector to the RIGHT of the throttle opening is the TPS. Sure looks like the knock sensor connector, unless one of the injectors is disconnected.
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All the injectors are connected properly. And the tps is connected as well. So I'm assuming it is the knock sensor I Just can't find where it connects. Could it be hidden under the Plenum?
#7
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The knock sensor is located in the valley of the block under your intake manifold. There is a wire pigtail with two connectors (one at each end) that connects to it, then gets routed through a chanel in the head under the intake manifold. The other connector on the pigtail then protrudes from there and needs to be connected to the mating connector coming off the wiring harness on the driver's side. It will be one of the electrical connectors coming off the harness in line with the three fuel injector connectors.
Hopefully you didn't leave the pigtail under the intake???
Hopefully you didn't leave the pigtail under the intake???
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Is your check engine light on? If its your knock sensor connector, you should have a code 52...
Take the throttle body off... and look down and to the right of where the tb was... its sometimes hard to see with that tb in the way... if its not there, and you have code 52... u will need to pull the plenum and reconnect, your gas guage will show some appreciation for that, and 60mph will be an option again....lol
Take the throttle body off... and look down and to the right of where the tb was... its sometimes hard to see with that tb in the way... if its not there, and you have code 52... u will need to pull the plenum and reconnect, your gas guage will show some appreciation for that, and 60mph will be an option again....lol
#10
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In your first pic, where does the connector you are holding come from? Does it come from the harness along with your injector connectors, or does it come from underneath your intake manifold? It is hard to see in the pic.
I think you are holding the harness part of the connector which means that the mating piece is either under the TB out of sight, or under the intake manifold.
Here is a picture showing the location of the grey knock sensor, you can just see the sensor to the left of the coolant pipe approx. midway to the rear of the block. The pigtail is removed in this photo, but it is about 6" long and one end plugs in right here. The other end gets routed under the intake to plug into the piece you are holding I suspect.
I think you are holding the harness part of the connector which means that the mating piece is either under the TB out of sight, or under the intake manifold.
Here is a picture showing the location of the grey knock sensor, you can just see the sensor to the left of the coolant pipe approx. midway to the rear of the block. The pigtail is removed in this photo, but it is about 6" long and one end plugs in right here. The other end gets routed under the intake to plug into the piece you are holding I suspect.
Last edited by Wrenchinjoe; 02-18-2011 at 01:03 PM.
#12
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If it were me, I would pull the upper plenum, leaving the TB and all those vac lines on the passenger side attached. You can flip it over and lay it on the passenger fender to get it out of your way.
Hopefully you will find that pigtail poking up from between the head and lower intake manifold... if not, it looks like you will have to pull that lower manifold too.
The good news is that you do not have to pull the heads off again. Also, that pigtail only costs $12 - $15 from the dealer and well worth replacing so you don't have to do this again for such an inexpensive little part.
Hopefully you will find that pigtail poking up from between the head and lower intake manifold... if not, it looks like you will have to pull that lower manifold too.
The good news is that you do not have to pull the heads off again. Also, that pigtail only costs $12 - $15 from the dealer and well worth replacing so you don't have to do this again for such an inexpensive little part.
Last edited by Wrenchinjoe; 02-18-2011 at 01:04 PM.
#14
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Here is another photo, hopefully this will shed light on what you are looking for. You can see where the pigtail comes up between the lower intake and head, and also the mating connector coming off the wiring harness.
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i just pulled the upper intake and there is no pigtail coming up between the lower intake and the head. im not to sure what is all involved with pulling the lower intake manifold tho.
#16
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Ok. Getting the lower intake manifold off is a bit of work. You have to unbolt (and later re-seal) the section in the back where several hoses and sensors connect in order to access two nuts that hold the manifold down.
You also have to remove (and later re-seal) the idler pulley that bolts to the front of the manifold. I think if you remove the tension from the timing belt, you can get that idler out without having to dig much deeper... I think.
The FSM is really helpful, the section titled Cylinder Head walks you through the steps. If you don't have that, holla back and I'll give you the link.
Wish I had better news for you, but you will learn a ton. Follow the FSM and read a lot here and you will get it.
Good luck.
You also have to remove (and later re-seal) the idler pulley that bolts to the front of the manifold. I think if you remove the tension from the timing belt, you can get that idler out without having to dig much deeper... I think.
The FSM is really helpful, the section titled Cylinder Head walks you through the steps. If you don't have that, holla back and I'll give you the link.
Wish I had better news for you, but you will learn a ton. Follow the FSM and read a lot here and you will get it.
Good luck.
#18
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There is a sticky at the top of the page for this section, one of the links directs you to the the FSM. The last post lets you download it to your computer in .pdf format.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...68/index2.html
Here is an online version:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
Scroll down to Engine and choose 3vze, then select the Cylinder Head section.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...68/index2.html
Here is an online version:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
Scroll down to Engine and choose 3vze, then select the Cylinder Head section.
Last edited by Wrenchinjoe; 02-19-2011 at 04:33 PM.
#19
well in all my reading of the fabulous knock sensor i have what may be the dumbest thing to ask ever ...............is it possible or feasible to move the knock sensor.... as i was doing a spark plug and plug wire change i found that someone moved the knock sensor to just above ther number 4 cylinder on the head ...is this something that needs to be corrected or is this a standard move since the previous rebuild was a toyota service shop
#20
This is not standard. It's put where it is on purpose, not just to make it a hassle to deal with.
I've heard of someone moving his before. I think he said to the LH engine hanger, so in the same general area as yours. IIRC he said it worked too.
About correcting it, if it works don't fix it. Though I personally would, because I stand behind Toyota's engineering on this one.
I've heard of someone moving his before. I think he said to the LH engine hanger, so in the same general area as yours. IIRC he said it worked too.
About correcting it, if it works don't fix it. Though I personally would, because I stand behind Toyota's engineering on this one.