monster where did you find yourself a 6 channel EGT setup?

How much hotter was the exhuast from #6?

I was actually eyeballing that Weigo wideband myself, affordable and accurate! I'd especially need it for what I have planned.

And for closed loop tuning I was planning on using the SMT6 to get the system closer to stoich in closed loop, in other words help the ECU to get closer to 14.70:1 faster. I think that's the only tuning you can really do to closed loop that the ECU wouldn't fight.

(Well save that adjustable O2 simulator that Midiwall posted, THAT could definately allow one to tune closed loop operation, but you also run the risk of leaning things out too lean if you dont tune properly.)

 

Goat.... when you are speaking of "bad fuel economy" I'm assuming you are talking of the 16 and up crowd, not the 12-14 crowd... right?

In other words, you are speaking of an otherwise correctly running 3VZE, and to generic design problems, not "easily" correctable problems.

 

Yeah just the generic design problems. 12, 14, 16 is all bad to me. The best I ever got with my 3.0 (even new) was 17mpg.

 

It's from the aircraft industry. Silly expensive.
Temps were all w/in 50° and I got to where I ignored it, though temps were always pretty high - up near 1500° when hammering.
#4 (burned & cracked piston) fell off more than 500°F - I knew it was bad before looking.

Not real sure the 6ch EGT was worth the time & trouble. It's a whole assload of wires that have to be run too.

The DTT VRFI2 I'm going to put in V is a close loop alpha-n type system. Stock is Delphi's patented ion senseing (knock) but is open loop. IF you can find a good tuner and spend a lot of dyno time Delphi's is probably better, but every time you change anything it's back to the dyno. The VRFI will nearly tune it'self and it's a complete replacement for the stocker.

I wonder if DTT could make something for our Toys...

 

True. And when someone pops in to talk about the SplitSecond ESC1, please read this thread before making a purchase decision:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/need-info-splitsecond-esc1-experiences-92688/


And it can also be a pain in the arse if your climate changes a lot, or if your driving takes you through major elevation changes.

 

Let me see. Couple of toggle switches and a red pushbutton switch... couple of lights, and voila, the best of both worlds. Maybe a random sound like Startrek communicator. Wonderful!

I still do want an Air Fuel Meter though, although I'm thinking a set of bananna jacks for my DVM easily reached just under the dash, would do the trick.

 

Yeah, I have those hiding under the cover in my center console.


It should, but the curve on the voltage from a narrow band is pretty weird. You'll also lose the damping effect of a narrow band A/FR.

 

Mark; Ok, I've been paying attention, so I understand what you've said about variable duty cycles etc. If push comes to shove, I can hook up a rather good tektronix scope. Hasn't been used much since I retired.

And if the DVM didn't damp out the swings in a useful way, I could always get a cheap analog version, or build a simple butterworth filter behind the jacks.

All I really want is a sanity check on the O2 sensor, and a general sense that the air/fuel is not wildly off 14.7 under "normal" conditions.

I'm just a simple guy... or losing curiosity in my old age... or something.

 

What is VFRI?

 

Out of curiosity does anyone know at which temp the cold start injector stops pumping?

 

You meant VRFI. The FI stands for fuel injection. The VR apparently stands for V-Rod or variable rate.