Oh yeah, by the way, I stick to regular ol 10W-30. I use only Castrol GTX, though.


I just love my FRAM oil filter

 

Huh?

O.k., first find me 1 diesel motor oil that isn't also recommended by the manufacturer for use in gasoline engines too. Good luck! They ALL are, and ALL have the same certifications as non-diesel motor oils. PLUS the certifications for diesel engines. NONE will harm your gasoline engine in any way, or they wouldn't be certified for use in gas engines. Period. I suppose you don't have any idea what "mixed fleet" means.


Second, the thing about motorcycles and trucks. That's TOTALLY irrelevant. The point made in that argument was that oil tested at the time of change out was THINNER than it's original viscosity. Motorcycle AND car engines. Remember, the 10w-40 became 10w-37 in the Honda accord after 3600 miles. Maybe you missed that.

How about now? Dumber yet? Or just as dumb?

 

I put in Castrol High Milage 5W30 in my 1990 22RE a week ago. Haven't noticed any leaks yet except from the rear seal which was leaking a little before. Only been under there a couple times since and it doesn't appear to be bad.

 

Mudhippy, thanks for chiming in. You hit it right on the nose.

Here are some more ways those of you feeling dumb can help alleviate your symptoms.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/motor-oil-testing.htm

http://www.performancemotoroil.com/i...motor_oil.html

That truth is most of us excluding at least me don't even leave our oil in our engines long enough for it to matter what we use. If you change at 3k miles, get the cheapest crap you can find. If you are using diesel oils or synthetics, leave it in for at least 6K miles unless you are REALLY hard on your engine.

Frank

 

I've run M1 synthetics in all my cars and with my Runner I go about 9000 miles or 10 months whatever comes first and use Puralator PureOne filters.

Synthetics also aren't affected by extreme temp diffs like dino is and that's part of the reason I run synthetics. Redline in my gearboxes too.

 

The API certifications on each bottle tell the story. Quality control can inject some variation in lots perhaps. Synthetics are great a low temperatures as well as very high temperatures. Jet engines use only synthetic oils because of the rpm's and the temperatures. Wide viscosity oils use a plasticizer additive to get the range. However, those long molecule plasticizers get chopped into very fine parts as the engine runs. Think of them as spagetti noodles. Eventually, the viscosity range will lower which supports some statements that 10W-40 eventually reduces down to something less after time. Coking, common with dyno oils sends solids into your oil over time and thickens it. The particles pass through your filter like very fine powder. Leave them in there for a long time and high pressure points begin to wear. I use synthetic because they are superior to dyno oil on startup and at elevated temperatures and don't coke. Yes the cost more but I change them at extended intervals which brings their cost down to the same as dyno oil. If you got to use dyno oil, I don't recommend 10W-40 or 20W-50 for the reasons above.

My $0.02

 

just go after castrol gtx high milage i use it and its good

 

haha good stuff thanks for the oil 101 guys every reply is much appreaciated

 

Rabble rabble! RABBLE! Rabblerabble!!!

 

Oh....and you've never joined rabble of any sorts? You contemptuous cuss, you.

Don't use synthetics if you suspect leaky valves or rings. Waste of money. That's all I have to say.

 

Reading this there are some good ideas but one thing I can't stand that keeps coming up. F@$king WALMART. Everyone wonders why the economy is going for a crap in the US. Take a guess.................Don't buy anything from that company. You are selling your country for saving 1 dollar on a $20 item. Get off your wallet and pay the REAL PRICE.

Sorry to change subject. On with the oils..........

 

Man, it ain't just Wal-Mart, but they aren't helping either.

 

what i dont get, is the fact that we still need oil.
i thought by now, (2008) we would have surpassed all fossil fuels, and would be on moving sidewalks.

yet, i use castrol 30 weight.

just say no to friction.
and i shop at walmart sometimes.

remember, this country is great b/c our exports are the #1 in the world (right now). and the fact that there are few places on earth equal to the U.S.A. (it will forever be my home)(hopefully).

i shop everywhere i go, its the American thing to do.

 

http://www.lubeoilsales.com/comparat...il_testing.htm
http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.htm
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/misc/all_oilfaq.html

These links provid some interestng reads for those who are interested in the facts of tests. Perhaps the most interesting is link 3. Notice how well the valvoline performs.

 

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Th...k%20Oil%20Myth

 

well thats nice that valvoline in Australia beats all the Australian brands that arent even sold in the us... ps. whens the last time you spent $100 on 5 quarts on regular oil.

I usually like to get my oil information from anime websites...

 

Regardless of where the oil comes from it still performed well. Not all those are austualian oils. So we cant get royal purple over here because it is only in australia. Or mobile one, or redline? Not In fact the only one that specifically states it is an australian based company is Penrite. All those other oils are availabe you just have to know where to look and find the right supplier. Yeah they may not have them at auto zone but that don't mean they don't exist.

 

I'm just saying that the conclusions were results versus a number of oils that aren't standard for the US market, and a number of common domestic oils weren't tested. On top of which it was a test by a car magizene which is probably sponsored by one or more of these oil companies.

If you really want reliable information you need to check peer reviewed articles.

 

Mobil 5-30 clean 5000 dino oil.

 

I can agree with that