Shogun1332

Finally got some ether, it did little to nothing. I think it started to keep it alive for half a second, and then it didn't.

So timing it must (and hopefully) be!
The parts store i bought the starting fluid from didn't have a timing light at all 0.o
I'm gonna try to borrow one from the school tomorrow, but I don't know if it'll even idle long enough for me to check it...

Luckily my distributor shipped today, I'm hoping it gets here by the end of the week and hopefully that will be the end of my troubles for now

lobukbuild

injector cleaner can loosen crap up in the fuel system and it can flow down stream and end up clogging your injector/s just a thought.

BamaYota1

If you have questions about your timing, reset the distributor. That will put you real close to being timed correctly, and it should start.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/ignition/5distribu.pdf

If it doesn't work the first time, pull the dizzy back out, rotate the engine 360 degrees and reinsert. You might have put the dizzy in on the wrong stroke.

Are you absolutely positive you have the firing order correct on your cap? The firing order is 1-3-4-2. So if you reset the distributor as above, the rotor will be very close to 1. The next wire clockwise from 1 should be 3, then 4, then 2. Double check this. If you have the firing order wrong or wires in wrong spots, the truck will not run.

Shogun1332

I got my distributor today, i dont think its the same distributor...
the plug is a 4 pin but instead of square its flat, and the guy didn't sell me the plug i guess.
the shaft coming out of the end of it also seems alot smaller than the one I pulled out....
i dont know what to do anymore..
this really sucks

BamaYota1

Reset your old dizzy!

Shogun1332

I reset it, and it is still doing the same thing

BamaYota1

Are you sure your afm is connected? Have you checked every fuse?

Shogun1332

I'm sure its connected, I'm not sure if it's working right, i found a thread on how to test it once but i cant find it again

BamaYota1

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33volumeai.pdf

z31freakify

It's either the cat, fuel pump, fuel filter, blown head gasket, or try checking if someone did not put something on your exhaust pipe you will be surprise, I had a kid stuff a racket ball on the exhaust of mine OH! almost forgot check your intake piping you might of left a rag in there hense making the truck not start. Hope this helps

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Hopefully you will remeber that very important internet purchasing lesson. Make sure you get comprehensive photos of things you're buying online, Always!

Of course it didn't get any better when you put the bad part in why should it.

Here is a very detailed post on tracing a Code 12 I posted last night.

Shogun1332

I think i might have found the problem,

resistance between E2 and Vs-> 787 ohms
E2 and Vc-> 0 ohms (yes i know how to use an Ohmmeter, so its not wrong)
E2 and VB-> 280 ohms
E2 and THA-> 4.72 KOhms
E1 and Fc-> Infinite Ohms

A quick reply would be much appreciated as to whether or not you agree this is the problem, also I am planning on doing the 7MGE AFM swap anyway, should i just do it now instead of buying a whole new 3VZ-E AFM?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

nevermind, you are talking about your AFM, not TPS. Nothing to see here... carry on

Shogun1332

Well the specs say,
E2 and Vs should be 20-400 ohms
E2 and Vc should be 100-300 ohms
E2 and VB should be 200-400 ohms
E2 and THA should be 4-7 Kohms between 32*-67*F
E1 and Fc should be Infinite

BamaYota1

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...92volumeai.pdf

Man, I just realized you have the v6. I've been posting links to 22re manual. My bad. You should really put that in every thread.

Shogun1332

well wait, i gotta re check it

Shogun1332

Well know its saying its in spec.
E2-Vs-> 520 ohms Spec->200-600 ohms
E2-Vc-> 280 ohms Spec-> 200-400 ohms
E2-THA-> 4.7 Kohms Spec->4-7 Kohms
E1-Fc->infinite

What now? drop the exhaust again?

BamaYota1

As a general rule, just do what Co_94_Pu says. He thinks you have a broken wire. And the man knows his stuff.

BamaYota1

And here is the FSM. It's for 93, but almost everything should apply.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

Shogun1332

Well, I really hate my life right now.
I've been working on the truck, replaced the distributor with a reman, thats an interesting story in itself, maybe for some other time. Anyway the new distributor fixed the slightly intermittent not starting at all problem, now it starts all the time every time, and then promptly dies.

I actually got it to idle once, I pumped the gas to keep the engine alive for like half an hour until it warmed all the way up. and then it would idle, but if i even cracked the throttle it would start to suffocate.

Suffice to say i moved on to fuel. I found some other similar problems like mine and read that it was prolly the fuel pump and the Circuit Opening Relay.

So i disdainfully started to work on dropping the fuel tank. I then realized it would prolly be easier to move the bed. So I looked up how to do it on the forum, and couldn't really find a good how to, so I decided to make my own. So i started going, taking pictures and unbolting things. Eventually I got the bed moved enough to get to the fuel pump.

Now heres where the hate begins. I was confused because my fuel pump came with a different connector than whats on the top of the fuel tank, so thinking i would have to solder that new connector in I snipped off the existing wires as close to the connector stubs as I could. I then shortly came to the realization that I just screwed up big time. Ever since then I've been trying to reattach those wires to the best of my ability.

And it isn't working.

On a much brighter note, I also did an SR5 cluster swap in my absence and replaced my broken stereo.