My project for today was to add wiring for trailer lights used when towing. I used the Hopkins universal kit for wiring. It has real handy lights on the device to tell you whether the connector is getting power, and from where.

Step one:
Take off plastic thing in the back of 4Runner. It is the plastic strip that keeps your carpet from coming up by the tailgate. I also opened up the back plastic panels. Complete removal is not necessary, but it will make things a little easier.

Step two:
Remove tail light screws. I found a Route for the wiring through the floor, as seen here:



Step Three:
I routed the wires up through the floor in the back, as seen here:



Step four:
I used 3M quick connects for the wiring splicing, so I would have a secure connection, and not have to molest the factory wiring too much with cutting. And I used a ground already in place for the stock stereo, or something as seen here:



Step five:
I had to add more length to the passenger side, because the wire that came in the kit is nowhere near long enough. I used an extra 3-4 feet.

Step six:
I routed the wiring for the passenger side under the plastic piece in the back. Sorry, I have no idea what it is called. Then I put everything in the runner back together, and tested it. Here is the final product: A little hard to see, but it's there.



Note: I routed the wiring to the tail lights through a factory opening with a rubber surround. I did not alter the surround, I just put the wires to the side, because I did not want to take the tape off of the factory wiring, and it closes the gap surprisingly well.

This took me about 2 hours, and that includes screwing around, eating lunch, and getting the tools together. The only downside to this is You can only have trailer brake lights, or tail lights, not both. I could not figure that out, so for now, it's brake lights, I just won't tow anything at night.

Hopkins Towing Solutions carries a direct connect wiring kit for you lucky pickup owners. It plugs right into the factory connection.

Total cost was around $15 for the splicers, and the kit.

Overall, it was worth it. Thus another mod in my sig gets moved from future, to current.

 

And, yes, I do keep a 1 gallon jug of water, and a .5 liter bottle of water in the back of my 4Runner at all times, just in case.

 

nothing wrong with that, it is advised to keep some food/water in your car/truck.

Nice install BTW....at first I thought you got married or something...yeah it is 3:40AM on the west coast...need to go back to bed

 

Thanks. It would be much more simple, if I knew exactly what I was doing going into the project. I took my time, because it was nice out.

 

so wait
forgive me if im dumb
but
ive never seen a 4runner with a flip down tail gate
i thought they just went up ??

 

After 1995 they go up, but before that, they flip down. One thing remains the same, though...the windows all go down. I have to put mine down before I can open the tailgate.

 

Not exactly
84-91 go down.
92 and up, go up.

 

If you are talking about using these things:


I would recommend starting all over. Those things are the devil and they lead to nothing but heartache.

You need to go down to an auto parts store or your local U-Haul and buy a taillight converter. It adapts the five wire system on your yota to the four wire plug common to most trailers. A universal adapter costs about $20, but you will have tail, brake, and turn signal lights.

 

Yes, I did use those things. I wrapped them in electrical tape also, just in case they separate.

I was looking into a more cost effective method of fixing that problem. For $5 at Pepboys, they have something that works just on the taillights/brakelights, and converts them to one wire for the trailer light, they are dim for the tail lights, and get bright for the brake lights. Until then, I just won't tow anything at night, since the brake lights, and everything besides tail lights works just perfect. I did swap the wire over last night to tail lights, because I had to tow jetskis home.. I have the luxury of downshifting rather than braking when possible, so I don't really miss the brake lights at night time.

 

My friend has a 1991, and his window goes down, and the tail gate flips down, and mine is a 1994, and it does the same.

 

Cool man. Good job on the install. Here's to many succesful towing adventures!!

 

X2 on both counts

Solder your connections.

 

I got that much by now. Thank you anyway, but I'm VERY happy with my quick connects.

 

I had to use those to because I was in a bind and needed to get it wired quick. But I absolutely hate those things because they're a PITA to get the wire to stay in there and then they still come out.
Is there any other connector I can use?

 

Nice job

 

I like your wire job, now ya gotta take it out and sweet talk it!

I cannot remember how i have my lights set up, but i hooked directly into the harness and i have driving lights. I hated the 3m things the original owner used them and that is why i spent a few hours soldering heat shrinking and burning my fingers.

 

Truth. Those things are terrible, and will eventually cut away the wire (hence why many people call them vampire clips- the "teeth" in them constantly vibrate/cut away at your wires.
While soldering is likely a better solution than those scotchlocks as seen above, a proper crimp is better than soldering, however, it's expensive.

With a set of high quality crimping tools, and high quality crimp connectors (with heat shrink), the splice will last longer, and be more resistant to vibrations than even solder.

 

Preferably marine grade heat shrink, or a small ball of butylated rubber wrapped around the splice and concealed within the shrink

 

Greg from canada smokes to much green stuff from canada.

 

I think that may be the first time I've ever seen "wilderness" anything and a Bush / Cheney sticker on the same bumper. Long live the duality of man!