I finally got my truck running this weekend. I bought a surefire engine from AutoZone http://www.surefireengines.com/. It comes with a 3 year warranty. The warranty is not voided if I do the install like the other engine sellers do. AutoZone has always had a GREAT warranty policy on everything they sell. Unfortunately for me I had to wait for my tax return to pay for it then find the time to do the work.

While I was waiting to get the money for the engine I changed out all 4 shocks, upper control arm bushings (hard to change), lower control arm bushings (extremely hard to change), all 4 ball joints, sway bar to lower control arm link grommets, sway bar bushings, all 4 tie rods, center link steering bar and the idler arm. Anything with rubber on it got replaced since the engine was out. I thought that it would be a perfect time to replace them all since I bought the truck in 1990 and they were all the original parts.

Because the engine oil was in every water passage I put in a new thermostat, radiator cap, water pump and radiator. I added about 2 gallons of distilled water and a bottle of prestone radiator flush to help clean the pieces I already cleaned before installing (upper intake, lower intake, heater core, pipes, tubes, ect….).

I also re-greased/packed the front wheel bearings. I was going to buy new wheel bearings but after going to AutoZone with my calipers and comparing my original wheel bearings with what was brand new I decided my original 330,000 mile Toyota wheel bearings were better suited for my truck.

The truck no longer ‘wonders’ down the road. It seemed to drive nice and straight but the steering wheel is at the 1:30 position so I know I still have to get is aligned.

With all of this and the gaskets and grease and hardware (all-thread bar,nuts, washers, hack saw blades ect…) I spent about $650.00 to $700 for all. I thought it was a pretty good deal.

I paid about $1630.00 for the engine. I also paid a $410.00 core charge so once I bring my old ‘I don’t know what caused the engine oil to go into the radiator’ engine back to AutoZone I will get that money back. Plus I got to pay the really high California sales tax. The engine total came up to $2191.91. The manager at AutoZone even gave me 5 quarts of oil and a Fram oil filter for buying the engine from them. That was really nice of him.

 

So how does it run?

 

I did initially have issues when I test drove the truck this last Saturday night (May 31, 2014). I did not have any power. I drove the truck for about 6 miles that night and could not go any faster than 65MPH. I brought the truck back into the garage to double check the timing. Just as I was going to put my 12MM wrench on the distributor bolt the radiator hose blew off and sprayed boiling water everywhere. After letting the engine cool down I put the hose back on. I thought that maybe I missed tightening the clamp down. I tried to tighted the clamp but it was at it's max. I did not have any spares so this ended my work for the night since all the stores were closed. So..... on Sunday I only installed the hood and the new hose clamp. I did not even try to start it. I was too tired and needed a day of rest.

 

On Monday I read my original Toyota Factory Service Manuals (Luckily work was slow). I came up with a game plan. I got home at 6PM and test drove it again for about 6 miles. It was very windy here in the desert and i could not get the truck to go faster than 55MPH against the wind. I checked the timing and set it for 5 degrees below top dead center at 750 RPM just as the book calls out for. It did not fix the problem.

So I got my fuel pressure tester out but it did not have the right adaptors to mate to the fuel rail.

So I got my vacuum gage out and took a rubber cap off the upper intake manifold. The truck engine almost died immediately so I put the cap back on and something weird happened.

 

It almost sounded like something went through the engine. Like a bug or something. I'm really not sure, but the engine now sounds different to me.

So this time I pull the rubber cap off the upper intake again I put the vacuum gage on immediately so the engine does not die. I read 18.5 Hg. I throttle the engine and the RPMs respond immediately. Before I would throttle the engine and the RPMs would take 2 to 3 seconds to catch up to where i had the throttle set.

So I decided I would take it for a test drive. I drove it the same 6 miles and the truck had plenty of power. I COULD NOT BELIEVE IT!!!!

 

So this morning I drove it to work (20 miles) and it worked just like i'm used to, except it drives nice and straight.

 

The thing is.... after i got home Saturday night from test driving it, my wife said she was praying to Saint Joseph and the holy family to get my truck fixed. My wife knew how frustrated and dissapointed I was that I still had a problem after all that work and money. Only God knows for sure..... But as for me, I believe!

 

I'm so glad the prayers worked. Isn't there a "break in " period for the first 500 miles or so with your new engine? Not sure. In the old days when you bought a new car you had it and IIRC you couldn't go above 45 mph the first few miles. They also had zinc in the oil and changed it out after the break in. I would love to see pictures of your Autozone engine. Just to have the option in mind if/when my puppy blows. I am not in any way qualified to rebuild one.

 

I read the paper work that came with the engine and it did not mention anything about a break in or adding anything to the oil.

As for pictures, I put a link to one of the post. It looks just like the pictures on surefire.com.

If you do have to change your engine it's not that bad or complicated when you get this engine.

I had to add half of the studs from the old engine to the new one. I had to take the oil dip stick tube, pilot bearing, the water port cover on the back of the cylinder head, the 2 oil pan studs and oil pan on the new engine. This engine even came with a gasket set although not all gaskets I needed were in the set. I was missing 2 of the heater core tube gaskets located on the aft side of the timing chain cover and the gasket for the water port cover on the back of the cylinder head and the 2 exhaust manifold gaskets for the tube that mates on the back side of the exhaust manifold over to the intake side. I think it's called the air induction system.

I did go ahead and change out the clutch as well since it was right there. I told AutoZone that the clutch I had in there for the past year was causeing my truck to shake when I had to accelerate quickly. They exchanged it without questioning me. I just gave them the old one and they handed me a new one. It even came with a new throw out bearing, alignment tool, pilot bearing and pressure plate. I did not even have to have my receipt. They found it in there computer system.

I've been mostly happy with the items I have bought from them.

 

Oh yeah.... I also changed out the fly wheel. I was worried that may have contributed to the shaking when i accelerated quickly. So now I have a brand new clutch system engaging a brand new fly wheel.

I haven't driven it enough yet to make sure it is not shaken when i accelerate quickly. But so far I haven't noticed anything.

 

Sounds like you (or someone) left a paper towel in the induction system and it finally got sucked through and blown out.

 

I was thinking that also. I did use some Brawny paper towels and brake cleaner to get most of the 'grim build up' off the upper and lower intakes. I was thinking that maybe some paper towel remenants fell into the intake and caused the problem. I will probably never know for sure though......