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Hubs won't come off!

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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 04:33 PM
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From: Mesa, AZ
Hubs won't come off!

Trying to change out my CV axles today and the damn Hubs won't come off. Undid the bolts and removed the cone washers - Losing one of the cone washers during that affair Then the hub pulls out about 1/4", but that's it, won't go anywhere after that. Didn't want to put a pry bar in there in case I kill something.

Is there a reason why the hubs might not come off? i.e. Maybe they are locked? The wheel does not turn freely, which leads me to think they are locked.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 04:34 PM
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From: Mesa, AZ
Oh yeaa - don't suppose someone has the part# for the cone washers? Better get myself some spares.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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From: Longmont, CO
Set hub to "FREE"
Remove top cap with the 6 10mm short bolts
Remove the bolt that goes into the end of the axle shaft
Remove the circlip around the axle shaft
Remove the 6 12mm nuts
Remove the cone washers
Remove the hub body

Reverse to reinstall. You will notice on the hub gear under the cap, there are two little tabs - those have to align in the wider slots in the hub body.

The problem you might be experiencing is the hub might be "glued" on with RTV and just being a bit troublesome.

Last edited by tc; Jun 10, 2007 at 05:37 PM. Reason: Forgot about the damn circlip
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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Do you have manual hubs, or ADD flanges?
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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Auto Hubs - The hub pulls out about 1/4" - so it's not glued on with RTV. Just won't pull off completely and I don't want to pry it to hard and risk breaking something under there.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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Double check there is no clip at the end of the axle holding the hub in place. Sounds like it moves that 1/4" easily, so I am betting it might be that. I think my manual hubs I have to remove all the bolts, washers... then the clip.

If you have a lot of grease or muck in there it might be hard to see.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
it's the bolt in the end of the hub. That's what's holding you off. You have to remove the cover of the hub like TC said.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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From: allen tx/provo ut
When I took off my add flanges I forgot to pop off the gold cap and undo the bolt underneath, it was doing the same thing as you're describing.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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From: Mesa, AZ
Originally Posted by TNRabbit
it's the bolt in the hub. That's what's holding you off. You have to remove the cover of the hub like TC said.
There in lays a problem. The Allen Screws holding the cover on have all been f☺☺☺ed up by the previous owner.

Sounds like that is my issue tho, thanks guys. Will have to figure out a way to remove those pesky things, maybe one of those stripped screw remover things from Sears would work.

Last edited by RiNkY; Jun 10, 2007 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
If you have the ADD with always locked hubs, you can just pop the gold cap off.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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So - Do I even need to remove the hub to get the axel shaft out? I'm guessing once I remove the hub cover I will see the C-Clip holding the Axel in place!
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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I don't know the part #, but you can get all those parts from marlin crawler.

Here:http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm

About those allen head bolts, your idea could work. Manual hubs have 10mm hex-head bolts, maybe you could use hex-head bolts instead, to lessen future headaches. I dunno for sure, never messed with the ADD stuff.

Yeah, that would be my geuss about the axle shaft too. But maybe there's a bolt, I wouldn't know.

Last edited by MudHippy; Jun 10, 2007 at 07:32 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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From: Mesa, AZ
Here's a pic of the hubs I have. Would love to switch to Manual hubs, but I'm on a budget and I can live with out those for now.

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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:22 PM
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From: Mesa, AZ
And yes - before anyone says anything. I am aware there are only 3 wheel stubs holding the wheel on right now. No point putting all the damn things back on when I'll be taking them out again without driving more than 10ft
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Those are automatic hubs not ADD.
I have NO clue how the hell they work..

And I would HIGHLY suggest you find some used aisins and swap them in.
I found mine at a guys house way in the back under a bunch of crap, through them in for free
Im sure you could find somone parting out a truck and snag them for 50 bucks or so..

Last edited by Jay351; Jun 10, 2007 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:31 PM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
You have the AUTO LOCKING HUBS; I have'nt actually seen them before now. I don't know what to tell you.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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You need to get the cap off of that thing. Just get rough with those little bolts and replace them with regular bolts.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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From: Longmont, CO
Originally Posted by Jay351
Those are automatic hubs not ADD.
I have NO clue how the hell they work..
Originally Posted by TNRabbit
You have the AUTO LOCKING HUBS; I have'nt actually seen them before now. I don't know what to tell you.
x3

Anyone know of a link to an older FSM?
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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It's in the 85 FSM, download from this site. Right click then "save target as".

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

Pages FA-35,36,37.

It says remove cover(those allen head bolts), then there's a bolt with a washer(no snap ring). Then hub will come off.

Last edited by MudHippy; Jun 10, 2007 at 07:56 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 07:07 PM
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Auto locking hubs suck as they auto unlock when you go in reverse...which is stupid and pointless.

You can get a set of used IFS manual hubs for $50 and my auto hub to manual hub conversion kit on my website and be done with those useless auto locking hubs. Pull them off and throw them away.

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