How to fix a messed up head bolt?
09-22-2010, 02:30 PM
#21
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I'd say get a thread chaser, it's what they're made for. And it may take longer, but do it by hand and avoid using a drill. The last thing you need is to royally screw up those threads. If you don't have an air compressor, grab a couple cans of canned air. It's a little off the wall I bet you could make it work. Don't forget to vacuum all the gunk up afterward!
09-22-2010, 02:44 PM
#23
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see my "thread B".....i tried the thread chaser.....felt bad....i used a cleaned up bolt / q-tips(about a hundred) / paper towels / a screw / an eyeglass screwdriver and acetone.....got them squeaky clean.
09-22-2010, 02:50 PM
#24
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09-22-2010, 05:55 PM
#25
there is a way to clean it. Get a long thin screwdriver and put a thin rag on the end of it and jam it all the way down to the bottom of the bolt holes. The thin rag will absorb the oil.
I had the same problem you did when I changed the cam in my 89 22re. I had to just buy new bolts from the dealer.
I had the same problem you did when I changed the cam in my 89 22re. I had to just buy new bolts from the dealer.
09-22-2010, 06:42 PM
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having fits with this thing, i spent forever trying to get the rope trick to work. it finally did though and i got the valve seal off of one valve, put the new back on cant get it all the way down to sit on the guide, im afraid if use much force ill destroy the new seal.
any tips on how to get it seated?
any tips on how to get it seated?
09-22-2010, 10:11 PM
#27
DROPT this is normal, I believe Iamsuperbleeder had to actually brake one of his head bolts to get it off. 92 TOY I believe also had a head bolt that was extremely difficult to get out as well.
The reason being is some of those head bolts go through oil passages and sludge build up is bad on them.
Don't worry about the head bolts as you should replace them anytime the OEM ones are removed. Most aftermarket ones I believe are reusable. Although some people I think believe even the OEM ones are reusable as well.
The reason being is some of those head bolts go through oil passages and sludge build up is bad on them.
Don't worry about the head bolts as you should replace them anytime the OEM ones are removed. Most aftermarket ones I believe are reusable. Although some people I think believe even the OEM ones are reusable as well.
The factory bolts are NOT listed as single use (NOT marked with the black diamond in the FSM), also they are not TTY, so you should be able to re-use them.
09-23-2010, 12:14 PM
#29
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
i used a socket sized larger than the seal and put and extension on it and gave it some gentle taps so it would go on straight. i believe the FSM says to do it this way also.
09-23-2010, 01:24 PM
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09-23-2010, 01:42 PM
#31
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09-23-2010, 08:32 PM
#32
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got 6 of the seals put on, now im having one hell of a time getting the last cylinder closest to the firewall. had to cut a heater hose since i simply couldnt pull it off, and removed the egr. the rope trick seems to not be working on this last cylinder, and i broke the seal from the head and the block, as the cylinder filled with coolant and it leaked out down the engine block. any tips for me? it would be highly appreciated
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