DROPT

in my attempt to change the valve seals, i was taking the head bolts off in the proper sequence, and the #3 bolt is galled as hell its so dang bad. im so damn aggravated right now, and i dont know if the previous owner ever did head work on this. but god dangit just what i need. who wants a parts truck?

sethb

hey man, i'm not busting your chops or anything but the mods on here will get ya for the "d word". They're pretty dedicated to keeping the site family friendly. Anyhow, you could always drill it out, re-tap and helicoil it... if not, what year/model/engine? I might could use a few parts... and where ya at? you could also file down two sides of the head and wrench it off that way. I mean, you're supposed to install new head bolts every time anyway.

xxxtreme22r

DROPT this is normal, I believe Iamsuperbleeder had to actually brake one of his head bolts to get it off. 92 TOY I believe also had a head bolt that was extremely difficult to get out as well.

The reason being is some of those head bolts go through oil passages and sludge build up is bad on them.

Don't worry about the head bolts as you should replace them anytime the OEM ones are removed. Most aftermarket ones I believe are reusable. Although some people I think believe even the OEM ones are reusable as well.

DROPT

yea you're supposed to install new ones i know. but this was the removal process not the installation stage. and i mean its loose and the bolt is all the way out of the threads, but it wont come out of the head like i put my ratchet on it and it just spins and isnt coming out anymore.

xxxtreme22r

probably because of the sludge build up. Are you completely removing the head? if so just take that bolt out with the head and then clean up the shaft to get it out. Mine were also difficult to remove once loosened.

DROPT

do you think the threads on the block are still, good? that is my main concern as of right now. i still cant completely remove the bolt
and im trying to change the seals without removing the head

xxxtreme22r

it's tricky to say whether or not they are or are not. this is one drawback to keeping the head on to change cams, do valve seals etc etc, even if the threads were good, they will tend to fill up with that sludge build up on the bolts and affect torque readings, next thing you know you have a blown head gasket because the head bolts were not properly torqued when reinstalled because the threads were not cleaned out. Noone even mentions this when they say you can do this without removing the head.

For me since I only have like 6,000 miles on my rebuild, I can get away with this as the buildup is not gonna be that bad and the threads will most likely still be clean when the heads bolts are removed.

Now anyone that does this frequently as far as several cam changes etc etc for racing purposes etc, they would most likely go with head studs from ARP and be done with the threads in the block and the stud itself stays, while the nuts on top are the only ones that are removed.

hilandfrog

I had 2 that stayed in the head till it was removed from the block and the could be "hammered" at from the other side.

I'm thinking you are working on a 4 cyl but I guess it could be a six?

From others findings, both mentioned in this thread, it seems the 3.0 head bolts are torque yield and the 22.r's are not.

My bolts were nasty enough that I didn't clean them, just replaced them for $50~.

Best of luck


Repo

DROPT

alright im going back out to fiddle with it. this truck has given me nothing but headaches. i blame it on the poor vehicle maintenance from the previous owner

edit* and yes its a 22r

sethb

x2 xxxtreme22r, just remove the head with the bolt still in it then remove it afterward. If you're worried about the threads on the block just hand thread a cleaned head bolt in and check for any serious binding. When you take it out also check the threads on the bolt for anything out of the ordinary.

92 TOY

hey....check out "Thread B" in my sig....i had the same problem and had to "lever" them out....aka pry up while turning.some were drippy wet, some were bone dry

DROPT

10-4 i will keep you guys updated.

xxxtreme22r

just remember whatever is holding that bolt in, ie sludge, its all gonna wipe off into the thread holes.

mountaingoat

Is it hanging up on the head, or on the rocker assembly? If the latter, can you pull the other bolts and then lift the problem one off with the rocker assembly?

Good luck!

DROPT

i got them out the where they are just hanging up on the rocker assembly. 5 out of the 8 had the sludge build up you guys were talking about, two of them are still barely in there.

this sound like a bad design, i noticed on of them that i took out on the intake side was dripping in oil, now heres my concern when i go to put the new bolts back in and torque them wont i get a false reading due to all the oil in the threads? i normally dab a little oil on them before putting them back in anyway but this almost looks like the threads will be filled with oil.


also im assuming i need to remove the 3 phillips head screws to get the rocker assembly off?

xxxtreme22r

the rocker assembly should lift right off the head, those screws are in order to take the rockers off the shafts. if you disassemble the rocker assembly make sure you lay it down just like it comes apart. this is one thing I had wished I took a photo of when I did my rebuild on how I took it apart and laid it out to ensure I put it back together just they way it was.

92 TOY

you need to clean those bolt holes out really well.

DROPT

man this turned into a headache real fast lol. i thought it was just gonna be a couple hours to do. im borrowing my parents garage hopefully they will understand and not throw a fit haha.

i didnt even buy new head bolts because i wasnt even thinking so ill have to get those tomorrow, and i guess a head gasket aswell since im running a risk of blowing the current one if i dont make sure those threads are clean.

Ah! if it isnt one thing its another.

DROPT

what would you recommend? a bottle brush and some carb cleaner? i was i had an air compressor

xxxtreme22r

I think only way to do it with the head still on would be to use something like a pipe cleaner and some carb cleaner.