Only you Clint...only you.

 

Hmmm, that's a little bit more than I was hoping for... Maybe 3/8ths (.375) would be better, that'd put me somewhere around 315lbs (if my calculations are correct )

 

Yeah I know, but my favorite supplier doesn't carry any kind of flatbed kit so I had to get creative

 

This is in the running for best thread ever. I like the "bolting chairs to the back" idea...

 

Yeah, i'm pretty good at throwing knifes too lol.

 

Yeah I think 3/8ths would do you a little better, or even 1/4" with some cross bracing would get you down around 210lbs. Have you thought about going aluminum? I'm not trying to tell you how to do this just trying to help you keep weight down.


That and I've got this fetish for diamond plate........ *shudder*

 

get er done!

 

Thing is, is that I'm trying to keep the weight up around 300lbs to simulate the weight of having the bed on there. After I took the bed off I got some horrible vibration and noise I attributed to changing the pinion angle (rear raised about an inch when I took off the bed). I don't wanna do shims, or cut off and reweld some new spring perches, or spend $300 on a CV driveshaft...

Oh man, show me some luvin. Post up some pics of your flatbed. I like getting an idea of how other people go about making their own beds.

 

It never even occured to me that the loss of the bed would change things although it does make a lot of sense. What does the bed on these things weigh anyway?

 

Well in my thread "How Much Do Our Beds Weigh" I was told 300-350lbs.

 

Ok well this was my flatbed on my 86.5 Nissan pickup






Ur's came out a little better.

The 82 4x4 was a little better it was made of metal more of a tray with a roll bar welded to it.

How it started out:













Added cross bars and some 1/8 metal plates over the wheels and used walkway expanded steel as the flooring.
Basically mud and crap would fall right through it instead of hanging out on the deck.

How it looked finished after using taller lift blocks on it:



I thought it looked ok. Fabricators would say the roll bar on it was worthless but better than nothing I guess.

 

Yours ain't bad lookin. Did you use treated lumber? How's it held up? I dig what you did for the bumper and taillights.

 

Naw the lumber wasn't treated. i didn't plan on having it that way for long.

Actually the backup lights were cheapo $10 small fog lights they worked awesome as backup lights lit up everything...
The other light's are for trailers I got them all at advance auto.
I did the same thing on my 82.

 

Man I really like your 1st gen... Do you have a cv rear shaft, or is that a single cardian?

I'd be able to do a whole hell of a lot of metal fabbing, but my buddy closed his shop so there went all the toys I got to play with

 

single cardigan. I had to have the rear DS lengthened and I also upgraded the L-52 transmission to a G54 I was going to do duals but I sold it in 2006 what a mistake that was.
I do miss that truck I drove it through a river crossing in Bolton VT probably about 5 ft of water or so.
It pretty much went anywhere I wanted the only limiting factor was the BFG tires If I had to do it all over I probably would have run 38x11.5 swampers or the new SS-M16 swampers.

 

Aw... Well at lease you have all the re's fuel injected goodness. Stupid carbs and their stall angles...

 

Actually I took the weber piece of crap off and put the stock crab back on it and used a fuel pressure regulator I had great results with it.
It seldomly stalled on me.
Yes having fuel injection is better though.

 

Dude, thats redneck
I LOVE IT!!!

 

Redneck Riggin at it's finest

 

check mine
I found a piece of 3/4 CDX plywood on the side of the road and it is secured to the frame with barbed wire and 2 x 6's left over from a calf fence I built
COST= 0.00
now thats redneck riggin at its finest!!