Hosed by shop for lock right install, need help figuring out locker issue
#21
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My guess is that the clearances between the drive plates, or the clearance between the pinion shaft and one or both of the spacers, is not quite correct. When I installed the Aussie in my front diff, the instructions were quite explicit that the clearance between the drive plates when they were pushed against the springs had to be between .145" and .170". Aussie would not warranty the locker if that dimension was out of spec. I assume the LockRite has a similar requirement. (with, of course, likely different numbers.)
There was also a spec for the gap between the pinion shaft and each of the internal spacers (.006" to .020" for the Aussie). Again, the instructions were adamant that that be within spec.
If either of those is out of spec, you may need slightly different thickness thrust washers.
You might call LockRite and ask them.
EDIT: I checked the installation manual. It has you check the clearance between the two halves of the locker, but not the pinion shaft. This is on page 11 for reference. I don't even know how you'd get in there to check clearance of the pinion shaft. http://www.powertrax.com/0002pdfs/1000708MIF.pdf
Last edited by Phantez; 10-27-2015 at 09:58 AM.
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The Aussie had a step where you just had the side gears, spacers, and pinion shaft assembled without the drive plates, so you could get in there. Then you had to pull some things apart again to add the drive plates. Sounds like LockRite has a different process.
I think a call to customer support at Lockrite is the next best option. Aussie was quite helpful, at least for my presales questions.
Edit: I just looked at the manual at the link you posted. The measurement for the pinion to spacer distance is on page 23. It's kind of in the "appendix" section, not in-line in the assembly instructions like you'd think it should be. They give a number of .005 to .020, matched to within .008.
I think a call to customer support at Lockrite is the next best option. Aussie was quite helpful, at least for my presales questions.
Edit: I just looked at the manual at the link you posted. The measurement for the pinion to spacer distance is on page 23. It's kind of in the "appendix" section, not in-line in the assembly instructions like you'd think it should be. They give a number of .005 to .020, matched to within .008.
Last edited by RJR; 10-27-2015 at 10:25 AM.
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Edit: I just looked at the manual at the link you posted. The measurement for the pinion to spacer distance is on page 23. It's kind of in the "appendix" section, not in-line in the assembly instructions like you'd think it should be. They give a number of .005 to .020, matched to within .008.
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I called Powertrax. They think it might be a clearance issue with the pinion shaft being uneven as well. I'm really annoyed with this thing. It's super finicky. I'm regretting I bought this instead of a Detroit locker and just replace the whole carrier. I guess I'll see what I find when I take it back apart.
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I've been looking around but can't find anything. Does anyone know the OEM part number for the thrust washers? Or where I can find them online? This is for an 87. I haven't pulled it apart yet, but if I'm in there I might as well change them out this time. Something must be slightly worn
Last edited by Phantez; 10-30-2015 at 07:20 AM.
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This website should show you what you need. (I'm assuming you have the 22re engine, with the 2-pinion differential, not the 4-pinion V-6 version, based on how you had to disassemble it.)
http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...rimLevel=18292
I don't know if those washers come in different thicknesses. You'll probably have to take your unit apart, measure the critical clearances, and decide what needs to change and by how much. You might be best off heading to your local dealer parts guy with that info.
I'd also suggest measuring the crosspin for tolerance and wear. That's the most likely piece that's out of spec. In fact, for $16, it might be worth just replacing it.
If it's any consolation, I wound up pulling my rear 3rd member 3 times before I got the Detroit True-trac installation working correctly. And that was replacing the whole carrier, so should have been simple. Unless you do this frequently, there are a lot of subtle ways to go wrong.
http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...rimLevel=18292
I don't know if those washers come in different thicknesses. You'll probably have to take your unit apart, measure the critical clearances, and decide what needs to change and by how much. You might be best off heading to your local dealer parts guy with that info.
I'd also suggest measuring the crosspin for tolerance and wear. That's the most likely piece that's out of spec. In fact, for $16, it might be worth just replacing it.
If it's any consolation, I wound up pulling my rear 3rd member 3 times before I got the Detroit True-trac installation working correctly. And that was replacing the whole carrier, so should have been simple. Unless you do this frequently, there are a lot of subtle ways to go wrong.
Last edited by RJR; 10-30-2015 at 07:42 AM.
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This website should show you what you need. http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...rimLevel=18205 I don't know if those washers come in different thicknesses. You'll probably have to take your unit apart, measure the critical clearances, and decide what needs to change and by how much. You might be best off heading to your local dealer parts guy with that info.
I'd also suggest measuring the crosspin for tolerance and wear. That's the most likely piece that's out of spec.
If it's any consolation, I wound up pulling my rear 3rd member 3 times before I got the Detroit True-trac installation working correctly. And that was replacing the whole carrier, so should have been simple. Unless you do this frequently, there are a lot of subtle ways to go wrong.
I'd also suggest measuring the crosspin for tolerance and wear. That's the most likely piece that's out of spec.
If it's any consolation, I wound up pulling my rear 3rd member 3 times before I got the Detroit True-trac installation working correctly. And that was replacing the whole carrier, so should have been simple. Unless you do this frequently, there are a lot of subtle ways to go wrong.
Last edited by Phantez; 10-30-2015 at 07:44 AM.
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Just note I gave you the parts diagram link for a 1993 V6. I went back and looked at your original post and saw it was a 1987, so I've edited that link to get you in the right place.
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Just an update, i haven't taken the rear end back apart yet because my daily driver superduty has been loaded up with sand and rock, so i've been carefully driving around the toyota. The other day, the locker started releasing. I've come to realize its always released on right turns and is almost completely silent when it ratchets. Left turns are now releasing too, but it's super loud. People stare lol. I expected it to be loud, but it seems a bit excessive. I wonder why it's just now starting to release and why it's so much louder than it is on right turns.
Last edited by Phantez; 11-10-2015 at 09:26 AM.
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