The timing belt was done by a local shop in town. It was done because the water pump was leaking, and the truck was already getting horrible mileage so I figured i could correct any errors in the timing belt alignment while fixing the water pump. Honestly I would prefer not to strip things down again just to check to make sure they did it right. Is there an easy way to check that the timing belt did not skip a tooth without tearing the fan and all the pulleys off?

Vacuum leak is one that I also need to test for.

 

I tried to find a friend who had a timing light but no luck, gotta wait for a pay check and then i can go buy one to use.

 

I really doubt you've "jumped a tooth." I really can't imagine how that could happen. (But yes, I do hear that suggestion a lot on this forum. I've never heard anyone confirm that it happened, though).

The "easy" way to check the timing belt would be to remove the upper radiator hose, the upper water outlet, and then remove the upper cover. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf I wouldn't bother, unless I had some reason to think a problem could be found there.

Like I said; do the easy stuff first.

 

Yeah my plan is to check the timing and the compression once i can go buy the testers ... and if my compression is on a whole bank then I will strip it down and check the timing belt.

 

Don't have to strip the whole thing down to check the belt alignment.
Set the crank to TDC and pull the plastic cover off that covers the cam sprockets. If the marks don't line up turn the crank 360 deg & check again.

Just because a shop did it doesn't mean it was done right...

 

Unless the motor is noticably running bad, I seriously doubt there is anything wrong with your cams.

If you are idling at the correct rpm, I doubt your timing is wrong. It could be though. You could always mark your current timing by making a scribe or marking the dizzys position with a perm marker, then advancing to check for a difference.

Did you ever pull codes? Not all codes trigger the CEL.

Did you determine if your front dif is in fact unlocking? I gained about 4-5 mpg when I discovered my hubs were staying locked and I was running in 4 wheel drive all the time. It is worth checking.

 

I did check for codes, and the engine light just flashed constantly, so there are no stored codes

I have no had a chance to check the front dif but i should have time to do that tomorrow.

 

you can "borrow" a compression tool from an autoparts store, you dont have to buy one. and what people said before......pull the upper cover off. and line everything up. i did the head gasket on a volvo one time. i got the timing belt back on and noticed one cam was a little off the mark. it was one tooth off and wouldve been easy to miss if i wasnt so obsessed with making sure it was right. i had to "magic" the belt onto the sprockets to ensure everything was lined up correctly. point is, it was an easy mistake to make. if i did it, so can anyone else.

 

OK so I managed to record this with my phone, and discovered that my front axle is indeed spinning even though 4wd is suppose to be disengaged. If what I have read (and understood) is correct, this means that the ADD system is not disengaging the differential, even though the transfer case is not engaged.

There is a definite difference in pull when im in 4wd compared to 2wd, so I know the transfer case is working properly, but if I understand correctly, the differential is not disengaging so I am still dragging around the whole front drivetrain even though its not supplying power.

Can someone confirm for me that this thought process is actually right? haha. i am going to go search for ways to fix this, or at least test it, but i want to make sure that this is right.

edit: just fyi ... its a 1990 4Runner, 5spd manual transmission

 

Correct. Fix the add, and you truck will feel like a completely different vehicle.

 

Thanks for confirming that

I went out and started testing the vsv's. The one farther forward (not sure if it is vsv2 or vsv4) is definitely dead. It does not have a resistance at all so i am assuming one of the wires inside is broken or something along those lines. I am pretty sure the other one is ok, it gave a resistance of 49.5 ohms, which is a little high but for now I will leave it alone. If I can get two for a good deal when I buy a replacement, maybe I'll do that.

Does anyone know where a good place to find a replacement vsv is? aside from checking the local junkyards? is this a part i should get from the dealership or can i find it at a napa or something?

Thank you for all the help you are all giving me. On some levels it sucks that i keep finding things to fix, but i would rather find things to fix than not know whats wrong haha.

 

Take a picture of the vsv straight on and the connector so that you can make sure you get the right one.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...26addcontr.pdf

This is from a 93, so it my or may not be exactly right.

 

I looked around but unfortunately I have yet to find a place that will rent out a compression tool. Its not a very common thing in this city apparently. Oh well, its a 40 dollar tool that I will probably end up using on my friends cars and trucks when I work of their vehicles so its worth it in the long run.

Once I test the compression, I'll know whether to check the belt or not.

Thanks

 

Everything I see says you have to buy the set from the dealer at about $600. You obviously need to get a used one from a junkyard or fellow Yotatech member. I think there is a way to bypass the add by switching around vacuum hoses as a temporary fix, but I couldn't tell you how. Might want to start a new thread on this issue.

Alternatively, you could take this time to convert to manual hubs and just lock the add system together permanently. That would solve both problems, and you'd never have to worry about it again.

 

you could do manual hubs and see if they make a cable actuator for the front axle. i'm unsure if they make them for toyota's

http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html

 

VSV 4 is fed by a P-G(Pink-Green), VSV 2 is L-G(Blue-Green).

VSV2 is responsible for disengaging.

Swap the wires from the relay to the VSV's, and vacuum lines to the ADD, if needed. Not sure which is which you'll have to inspect the wires.

 

Well I was able to get my front dif to disengage simply by sucking on the vacuum hose that runs down to the actuator, so at least i know the vacuum line is intact and the actuator works. Now I just need to source a new vsv. The dealer wants $900 for the vsv2 and vsv4 set ($400 just for vsv2) so that is definitely not an option. I have a couple junkyards looking for the part, so hopefully they come up with something and it is significantly cheaper.

Anyway, the dif is disengaged now so hopefully the fuel mileage will go up a couple.

 

So I was finally able to go buy a compression tester, and here are the results:

Cyl#1:182
Cyl#2:160
Cyl#3:182
Cyl#4:179
Cyl#5:183
Cyl#6:170

Aside from #2 being a little low they seem great. I may have a valve out of spec on that cylinder.

I did notice though that when I took the spark plugs out of the passenger side bank, the threads were wet with oil. I did just get the valve cover gasket replaced but now I am thinking it is still leaking. It almost seemed like there was oil in the cylinders though, so that was a bit concerning. Maybe that's just because it had a chance to drip down while I was testing the other cylinders.

Sorry for the long thread with multiple issues, but i figure it was best to keep it all in one location. If anyone has any thoughts about those compression numbers, let me know. Thanks.

 

Drop chefyota a line for a VSV he's got a box full of em IIRC, thread link

FSM specs for 3vze compression
So most of those are w/in spec assuming the guage is accurate. The big issue is the imbalance, ignoring the guage calibration, you can assume the guage will atleast get that part right even if it's reading high or low.

Are those numbers hot or cold, did you do the dry and wet tests?

Next step would be a leak down test. Also there should be any real signifigant oil flow coming thru the valve seats

 

Thanks for the heads up for chefyota, I will get in touch with him.

Yeah the guage seems to be pretty accurate because I used it on my other car to check and everything seemed about right. Its the imbalance in #2 and #6 that kind of worries me, but maybe I will go back in and check that side again because it is a lot easier to get to.

Those were cold tests, and I didnt have a chance to do wet tests.