Just wanted to update my lack of progress. I am currently working stupid hours and trying to finish the addition I'm building onto the house before snowfall. I am going to try and get some time on it in the few days and get back to you with some resistance recordings. Thanks again for the help and patients.

 

So I just replaced the throttle body with one with a "good" working TPS just for giggles, and I re-tested voltages at the ECU. Im sorry if its hard to read! Interesting thing I observed this time around was that with one lead of my multi meter probed into the ECU and the other in my hand I had 12v. Correct me if im wrong, I should't be completeing the circut unless there were insufficient grounds.

Voltage at ECU Connectors for 86
v8-x7 B+ - E1 10-14v Ignition sw. on. 12.3v
v2-x7 Batt - E1 10-14 v always 12.3
w12-w14 VCC - E2 4-6 v Ignition sw. on 6.5v
w6-w14 IDL - E2 4 -10 v Ignition sw. on and Throttle valve open 0v
w11-w14 VTA - E2 0.1-1.0 v Ignition sw. on and throttle valve fully closed 1.2v closed, 5.2v open
4-5 v Ignition sw. on and throttle valve fully open
x8-x7 IGT - E1 0.7-1.0v cranking or idling 1.3v idling
x3-x7 STA - E1 6-12 v Ignition sw. in start position 0v key on and key in crank position
x4-x5 #10 - E01 x9-x7 #20 - E02 9-14 v Ignition sw. on E01-#10 – 11.5v, #20-E02 – 12.1v
w8-x7 w (check engine light) - E1 8-14 v no trouble codes and engine running 14.3v
v4-w14 VS - E2 0.5-2.5 v Ignition Sw. on measuring plate fully closed 0v
5-8 v Ignition sw. on and measuring plate fully open 4.5v
2.7-7.5 v idling .5v open and closed
v3-w14 THA - E2 2-6 v Ignition sw. on and air intake temp 20 deg C / 68 deg F 3.2v
w10-w14 THW - E2 0.5-2.5 v Ignition sw. on and coolant temp 80 deg C / 176 deg F 6.3v @ 70 deg
v5-w14 VC - E2 4 - 9 v Ignition Sw. on .5v
v9-w14 B/K(Brake) - E2 8-14 v stop light sw. on 11.5v

 

A voltmeter provides a parallel path when it measures voltage. Without the second lead touching ground the voltage from the lead connected to the ECU is looking for a path to ground through the second lead. Your body is 55-80 % water and everyone has a different tolerance to the conduction of electricity. It's possible you conduct electricity very easily and your body was providing a path to ground for your voltmeter.

Below I've looked at your voltage measurements and rearranged the good ones from the others.

Voltage at ECU Connectors for 86
v8-x7 B+ - E1 10-14v Ignition sw. on. 12.3v OK
v2-x7 Batt - E1 10-14 v always 12.3 OK
w12-w14 VCC - E2 4-6 v Ignition sw. on 6.5v Voltmeter Calibration? OK
w11-w14 VTA - E2 0.1-1.0 v Ignition sw. on and throttle valve fully closed 1.2v closed, OK
5.2v open OK
4-5 v Ignition sw. on and throttle valve fully open
v3-w14 THA - E2 2-6 v Ignition sw. on and air intake temp 20 deg C / 68 deg F 3.2v OK

x8-x7 IGT - E1 0.7-1.0v cranking or idling 1.3v idling OK
x4-x5 #10 - E01 x9-x7 #20 - E02 9-14 v Ignition sw. on E01-#10 – 11.5v, #20-E02 – 12.1v w8-x7 w (check engine light) - E1 8-14 v no trouble codes and engine running 14.3v OK
v9-w14 B/K(Brake) - E2 8-14 v stop light sw. on 11.5v OK

x3-x7 STA - E1 6-12 v Ignition sw. in start position 0v key on and key in crank position
If you have 0 volts in the start position...how are you getting your truck started?

w6-w14 IDL - E2 4 -10 v Ignition sw. on and Throttle valve open 0v
If you are 100 % positive that you were indeed making contact with both IDL and E2 at the ECU, then I would say that this points to an ECU problem in either the IDL circuit.or the E2

v4-w14 VS - E2 0.5-2.5 v Ignition Sw. on measuring plate fully closed 0v
Your voltmeter might not be accurate enough or it's calibration may be off to disrtinguish between 0.5 volts and 0.0 volts
5-8 v Ignition sw. on and measuring plate fully open 4.5v OK
2.7-7.5 v idling .5v open and closed?
If the engine is idling the measuring plate will be in a position controlled by the ECU which would probably be closed with the idle air bypass providing enough air for idle... how can it be open and closed

w10-w14 THW - E2 0.5-2.5 v Ignition sw. on and coolant temp 80 deg C / 176 deg F 6.3v @ 70 deg
70 deg C or 70 deg F

v5-w14 VC - E2 4 - 9 v Ignition Sw. on .5v
Problem here in either the Vc or E2 circuit.


The common thing here between the IDL, Vs and Vc measurements that are off is E2, but most of your other measurements to E2 are within spec. In the wiring harness there are 2 splices and 2 connectors (18P at ECU & N2 yellow 12 pin connector near the ECU) that tie the E2 circuits from the Air flow meter, Hac Sensor (2wd. only) Water Thermo sensor and the Throttle position sensor together on the path back to the ECU. If any of these connections have high resistance than that will definitely impact the voltage that the ECU will see coming back on E2.
The logical next step would be to carry on with the resistance measurements and take it from there.

 

Awesome. I will go back and double check those voltages to be sure. And then I will continue to measure resistance. I can't thank you enough. Even if my truck never runs right I have learned a lot from u. Thanks for your time and knowledge.

 

Hey guys! Im really sorry for the super slow responses. Life is currently getting ahead of me which is putting the Yota on the back burner. Anyway, please dont give up on me. I will be back with updates soon. Thanks again guys.

 

oxygen sensor or distributor adjustment check. Just trying to help!

 

sounds like a mass airflow sensor try unplugging it and see if it changes at all

 

I have changed the air flow meter and adjusted the distributor but I have not messed with the o2 sensor very much. It's super rich even while its open loop so I told myself it can't be that. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I tend to over look things sometimes.

 

Welcome, Giri.

One post so far, yet in it you're giving advice about something you have NO CLUE about. These engines have NO MAF, & even if they did, the engine wouldn't start or run without it.

I suggest you spend your first few hours reading through the FAQs & gaining knowledge from the hundreds of thousands of manhours of experience located here before you spout off some more nonsense like that.

Hope you find this forum informative and helpful.

 

Ok Kids! Play Nice!

 

hey you silly bastard unless i have the only 22re with an airflow meter then im pretty sure they do and mine runs with it unplugged it just runs like ˟˟˟˟ with the check engine light on. so i figured it may be worth checking

 

Now now. No need to argue. I'm just looking for some help and thus far everyone has been great help. Thank you everyone. I am trying to make time to work on it but life is beating me right now. Thanks again guys.

 

A MAF is a Mass Air Flow sensor. The 22re & 3vze use a VAFM (Vane Air Flow Meter). A MAF has a heated wire element that senses the cooling effect of air flowing over it to determine air flow/density. The VAFM uses a "flap"that's part of a position sensor to measure air flow. Not as precise as a MAF, but that's what they used before MAFs became popular.

Neither engine will do more than idle (at best) without the VAFM connected--no throttle or it dies.

*resisting urge to use descriptive expletive here*

 

Remember:- "Discretion is the better part of valor"

 

Sounds like you and I have have the same deal going on, except mine is throwing code 5 for O2 sensor. Which did no good to replace. Let's keep up with each other and see if we can figure these things out.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...t-22re-245674/

 

Will do. I am going to put some more time in on the yota soon. I will be sure to update.

 

Hey man my rich condition turned out to be the vain door on the AFM stuck wide open. Making the ECU give full fuel all the time. Took it off the top of the filter box used a little brake cleaner and penetrating fluid to clean it, break it loose, and lube it up. It is running great now. Also installed a new set of plugs. Good luck, let me know what you turn up.

 

Awesome. I wish my problem was that easy. I am chasing a little wire gremlin.

 

Hadmatt! I need some help. Finally working on the yota again. I found that my IDL (black with white stripe) isn't in pin #6. I took a pic but I can't seem to find a way to upload from my phone. According to my haynes manual it should be one pin over. Right now it is in the very center pin. Any thoughts?

 

Wern you can go to ncttora.com and download your FSM. I am sure it will have a better diagram of your pin. I can probably pull the diagram out of the FSM for my 85, but it may be different than your. It will also tell you what the voltages at the ECM should be. If you can't get it down loaded I will email you those pages out of mine.