Help needed
#1
Help needed
found a gas leak, diagnosed as the fuel pressure damper on the back side of the block, i removed the intake manifold and hood so i have room to get back there, however i can not get the fuel damper out, i had 2 n-wrenches trying to get leverage but its a tight bugger, ive used penetrating oil, scared to use a flame but have had several people recommend bringing a torch to it for a couple seconds to heat it up a little. if anyone has had similar problems getting it out what did you use to get it off? i have new part and gasket sets so just waiting to get this sucker removed.
another note, a coworker told me there was a way to bypass the pressure damper, how would one go about doing that? i’m not too mechanically inclined but i do most of the work on my own, i just replaced the fan pulley bracket and that wasn’t too hard but this is a can of worms
another note, a coworker told me there was a way to bypass the pressure damper, how would one go about doing that? i’m not too mechanically inclined but i do most of the work on my own, i just replaced the fan pulley bracket and that wasn’t too hard but this is a can of worms
#3
i am new to older toyotas so i may be way off here. you say back of the block, but wouldnt the damper and fuel regulator be on the fuel rail? also, the "back" of an engine is actually the side that faces the radiator, correct? the "front" would be facing the firewall.
do you have the 22re or the 3.0?
also, could it be possible that something was deleted and someone used a bolt with JB weld on it so it could never be removed again? perhaps a "delete" of some sort took place?
my go to is PB Blast a few times over a couple days. then a long 1/2" breaker bar with 6point socket. If that doesnt break it loose the bolt usually snaps, lol.
do you have the 22re or the 3.0?
also, could it be possible that something was deleted and someone used a bolt with JB weld on it so it could never be removed again? perhaps a "delete" of some sort took place?
my go to is PB Blast a few times over a couple days. then a long 1/2" breaker bar with 6point socket. If that doesnt break it loose the bolt usually snaps, lol.
#4
Since you have the new damper, you can see that it should just screw out. Since all of these parts are aluminum, I would avoid a torch. Maybe a heat gun if you're desperate (and very careful -- never forget that all of that stuff is full of gasoline!).
It might be easier to remove if you first remove the whole right-hand fuel rail, but I really doubt it would be worth it. That's a big, fussy, job.
As you can see, the fuel damper just sits at the aft end of the fuel rail. In theory, you could "bypass" it by replacing it with a plug machined with the same threads. Why would you do that?
I can't add much to the advice of PB-Blaster or penetrating oil. Mine came out with a wrench.
It might be easier to remove if you first remove the whole right-hand fuel rail, but I really doubt it would be worth it. That's a big, fussy, job.
As you can see, the fuel damper just sits at the aft end of the fuel rail. In theory, you could "bypass" it by replacing it with a plug machined with the same threads. Why would you do that?
I can't add much to the advice of PB-Blaster or penetrating oil. Mine came out with a wrench.
#5
however, it sounds like you are describing the v-6 3.0 engine, not sure if it's a similar situation.
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